At in-cosmetics 2015 in Barcelona, Induchem will introduce a skin tone brightener that is activated by microorganisms on skin. Brightenyl (INCI: Tri-hydroxy Benzoic Acid Alpha Glucoside (THBG)) is an alpha-glucoside derivative of trihydroxybenzoic acid (THBA), a known potent but highly unstable tyrosinase inhibitor. It uses stratum microbium, a new functional layer of human skin, to partially convert to THBA and act on seven biological targets to even skin.
THBA and THBG: capture UV-induced free radicals (ROS); prevent UV-induced DNA damage; reduce the expression of PGE2; control the Nf-kB pathway, control the expression of MITF; saturate keratinocyte receptors for melanosomes; and block melanin synthesis even under UV conditions.
Induchem utilized its libragen laboratory to conduct high throughput DNA analysis (called metagenomics) on the skin microbiote to understand it better. The analysis of 40 billion DNA bases enabled the discovery that human skin microbiote possesses genes of alpha-glucosidases, highly selective enzymes that could be used to activate cosmetic ingredients and increase their efficacy on the skin. This led them to create THBG, which is perfectly stable and highly water-soluble. Once applied on skin, THBG is partially converted into THBA by the enzymatic activity of the microbium stratum layer. This process mimics the concept of pharmaceutical pro-drug, which is activated in the human body to become fully functional.
The synthesis of THBG relies on a pure enzymatic process that complies with the 12 rules of green chemistry. This process has been optimized to utilize water only as a solvent and limit the over-usage of energy to manufacture a pure stereospecific molecule in one step. The wastes of the synthesis are mainly composed of water and a small fraction of unreacted THBA. THBG is purified on a column to deliver a >95% pure molecule at the end of the manufacturing process.
Brightenyl is compatible with cosmetic formulas containing water and is recommended for: smooth whitening creams, intelligent brightening serums, lightening lotions or sprays, CC creams (color correction creams), skin tone enhancing gels or anti-pigmented spots serums.