Bare Escentuals recently added Complexion Rescue Tinted Hydrating Gel Cream to its bareMinerals brand as “The best of a BB, a CC, and a tinted moisturizer...with a 215% increase in skin hydration after just one week.” This column will review the ingredient listing for claims substantiation.
This formula is a o/w emulsion with glycerin, trehalose, propanediol and butylene glycol as the humectants. Squalane, coconut alkanes, caprylic/capric triglycerides and coco-caprylate/caprate are the emollients. The thickeners/stabilizers include cellulose gum, agar and silica. The emulsifiers are isostearic acid, polysorbate 60, polyglyceryl-4 laurate/ succinate and sorbitan sesquiisostearate. The active ingredient is the mineral sunscreen, titanium dioxide.
The “bio-active” or cosmeceutical ingredients include Globularia cordifolia (daisy globe) callus culture, Salicornia herbacea (glasswort) and Melilotus officinalis (yellow clover) extracts. The claims for a commercial daisy globe extract are “helps reduce the level of pro-aging agents and local micro-inflammation, decreases skin redness and enhances natural skin glow; the skin feels appeased and irradiates its beauty.” Globularia cordifolia ferment, i.e. heart–leaved globe daisy, acts like skin’s “bodyguard” to help defend against environmental stressors due to its natural ability to withstand harsh environmental conditions.
The mineral electrolytes magnesium chloride, potassium chloride and calcium chloride help balance skin’s moisture content. The two marine derived extracts, glasswort and yellow clover (or yellow dock) are also known to be especially hydrating.
The preservative system consists of potassium sorbate and phenoxyethanol. The opacifiers and colorants are magnesium stearate, lauroyl lysine, titanium dioxide and iron oxides, which are blended to create ten “sheer to medium” skin tone shades. I have not reviewed the results of the clinical testing, so I can not substantiate the 215% hydration improvement. However, it is my opinion that the ingredients present in the formula do support the majority of the marketing claims.