Retinol has proven anti-aging skin benefits, but also poses drawbacks as far as its stability and potential for irritation. However, according to Tom Mammone, Ph.D., of The Estée Lauder Companies and Clinique Labs, a new retinoid ester holds promise to bridge this divide. Mammone presented this work at a recent American Academy of Dermatology Conference. Here, he gives us an overview of it and shares some next steps in his research; plus, he provides insights on the anti-aging market.
"[Retinoids] are a major tool for anti-aging and we’re interested in finding new ones that are more potent and that elevate this whole area," said Mammone. "This new molecule is a retinoid but an ester, so it has many [of the] benefits of retinol ... in something that is more stable, less sensitizing and—[according to] our experiments...—has much greater efficacy or performance in terms of increasing collagen."