Silab’s Neolipyl Rebalances Lipid Structure in Dry Skin, Calms Retinol Sensitization

Fresh Young Woman Cornflowers Beauty Sustainable Natural Concept
Image courtesy of Silab

Silab has introduced Neolipyl, a natural active derived through an enzymatic extraction process from the flowering tops of Centaurea cyanus (cornflower) sourced from certified organic French agriculture.

The ingredient was developed to help restore the lipid matrix of dry skin and, when used in combination with retinol, mitigate irritation.

Profiling Dry Skin

As the company explained, the skin’s barrier function depends on a well-organized lipid matrix. This can become disrupted in dry skin or through the use of certain actives such as retinol. 

Using lipidomic analysis and optical biopsy modeling, Silab thus established a profile of dry skin characterized by impaired lipid synthesis and disordered lipid structure.

Re-equilibrating Lipids

Neolipyl (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract) was developed and tested using this model. Results indicated the active:

  • stimulated epidermal lipid production and
  • improved lipid organization, contributing to the restoration of barrier integrity.

Clinical Benefits Comparable to Niacinamide

In addition, in clinical studies of Caucasian and Asian subjects with dry skin, Neolipyl was reportedly shown to improve hydration, comfort and skin surface smoothness after 14 days of twice daily use. Its performance was comparable to niacinamide in restoring barrier function.

When applied alongside retinol on normal skin, Neolipyl helped to reduce adverse effects such as dryness, redness and discomfort, while maintaining retinol’s anti-aging efficacy, the company reports. It also visibly enhanced skin radiance.

Formulation and Regulatory Notes

Neolipyl is available in aqueous solution and recommended at concentrations between 0.5% and 2%. 

Additional benefits of the ingredient include: 

  • 100% natural origin content designation per ISO 16128,
  • complies with biodiversity requirements, and
  • meets global cosmetic regulations, including those in the EU, U.S., China, and Japan.

By supporting lipid balance and skin tolerance, Neolipyl offers a nature-derived option for formulations targeting dry, sensitive or retinol-treated skin.

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