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Safety/Stability
Fast Analysis of Cosmetic Allergens Using Convergence Chromatography with Mass Spectrometry
Fragrances are complex combinations of substances that are added to many consumer products to give them a distinctive smell, impart a pleasant odor, or mask the inherent smell of some ingredients—but ultimately, to enhance the experience of the product user.
Methods/Tools
Tell Me How You Really Feel
Focus groups provide colorful qualitative data that can set up brands for success.
Efficacy
A Sunny Proposition: The Effects of Sun on Hair
While not nearly as well-documented as skin, plenty of literature indicates the sun can have damaging effects on hair.
Methods/Tools
How Do Cosmetic Formulas Impact Skin’s Microbiome?
The investigation of skin microbiota under the influence of environmental factors such as cosmetics and from a dynamic perspective has as yet been poorly investigated. Here, metagenomics are used to provide clues.
Skin Care
Hyaluronic Acid Butyric Esters for the Improvement of Skin Functionality
The versatility of hyaluronic acid is connected to not only its size, but also to inherent opportunities within the molecule for multiple bonds and for the differentiated release of bound functional molecules. Here, ester bonds are used to introduce substitutes for the material’s alcohol groups, thus providing elasticizing, moisturizing and antiaging benefits for skin care.
Animal Alternatives
Alternative Safety Test Awarded DFG Animal Welfare Prize
Even before the animal testing ban, the cosmetics industry sought alternative test methods. In relation, the German Research Foundation (DFG) has awarded scientists for a cellular system they developed to replace the animal testing of neurotoxins for medical and cosmetic benefits.
Nutricosmetics
A Great Barrier, Enhanced: A Review of Oral PUFA Supplements for Skin
Skin breakdown is implicated in many areas of health, and transepidermal (TEWL) water loss can indicate the integrity of the skin barrier. This article reviews the literature for evidence of how oral supplementation with polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) could positively impact TEWL, and therefore, skin barrier functioning in healthy individuals.
Literature/Data
Massive Study Identifies Genetic Indicators for Skin Cancer Risk
The results of a massive study examining some 7,404 cases of squamous cell carcinoma in skin identified genetic associations with this disease, some for the first time.
Sun Protection
SPF Testing: Who's Got Their 'Backs?'
"Isn’t it time for governments and industry to standardize an in vitro SPF test to replace human testing?" Karl Laden, Ph.D., of Alpa Cosmetics, asks in this brief commentary. What do you think?
Sun Care
Uniquely Stable Emulsions Revealed Through Freeze-fracture Transmission Electron Microscopy
Researchers investigated the structures and features of emulsions made with different emulsifiers via freeze-fracture transmission electron microscopy. Potassium cetyl phosphate formed more multi-lamellar spheres than other emulsifiers, and aggregated homo-domains on top of lamellar sheet surfaces and multi-lamellar spheres. These homo-domains are likely to be responsible for the excellent emulsion stability achieved.
Tech Transfer
Touchscreen Skin: The Next Wearable?
Are we closer to an e-Skin reality? The market may be ready. But is the technology?
Efficacy
VIDEO: P&G Scientists on Claims Substantiation in Anti-dandruff Care
Head & Shoulders recruits an army to prove the benefits its brand delivers to consumers. Hear more in this video.
Sun Protection
SPF Tests Reveal No Ideal In vitro Substrate Exists
In vitro SPF measurements are challenged by reproducibility, repeatability and correlation with in vivo values. Here, the authors assess sunscreen adhesion to the test substrate support, since poor adhesion produces bad results. Surface substrates are characterized by functional group, charge, wettability and surface morphology. Eight w/o and o/w emulsions also are tested. Results indicate an ideal in vitro test substrate does not exist.
Safety/Stability
It'll Grow on You: Fully Functional 3D Skin Model
Blood, sweat and hairs ... a group of researchers from Japan have developed a skin transplant model that can create fully functional 3D skin transplants, complete with hair follicles and sebaceous glands, for replacing seriously damaged skin or as an alternative to animal tests.
People
Getting ‘Crazy’ with President Auderset
“Be crazy when you imagine new products,” Philippe Auderset, Ph.D., advises novice chemists. Though, with some 29 years in the industry, he’s got more than just crazy ideas up his sleeve. Read this interview to learn more about him—and from him.
Method/Process
Laboratoires Expanscience Launches Slimming Ingredient
Laboratoires Expanscience introduced Macaline, its first cosmetic active ingredient with slimming properties including draining and firming.
Efficacy
Silab’s Mitokinyl Battles Urban Pollution
Silab has introduced Mitokinyl, an anti-pollution natural active ingredient, which fights damaging environmental stressers.
Sun Protection
New Sunscreen Allows Body to Produce Vitamin D
Researchers discovered altering ingredients in sunscreens allows the body to produce vitamin D, which led to a new sunscreen development called Solar D.
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