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244 Results
Type: Article
Section: Testing > Efficacy
Efficacy
Words from Wiechers: Who Do You Think You're Fooling?
In this edition, Wiechers admonishes us to “make cosmetic science into something we can be proud of again,” and reminds us that “cosmetic science is only as bad as you and I make it." Read on to learn more about who's "fooling" whom.
Methods/Tools
Words from Wiechers: How Scientific is Cosmetic Science?
Academic versus commercial science are explored in this installment of our "Words from Wiechers" series. Here, O'Lenick reflects on Wiechers's view of science, additionally highlighting his omission of the end user's experience.
Literature/Data
Keratin Blend Anchors Follicles and Prevents Pollution-induced Hair Fall
Poor scalp health compromises hair quality. As such, the topical application of keratins was explored to increase collagen IV in the scalp skin. Live scalp explants were used to test this approach for improved follicle anchoring and, in turn, protection against environmental assault, hair fall and damage.
Efficacy
Aubergine Mutes TRPV1 and Boosts TRPV-3 and -4 to Reinforce and Comfort Skin
While the causes of sensitive skin are not confirmed, they most likely are due to a neurogenic inflammation after the enhanced activation of sensory proteins in keratinocytes. The present work tested the ability of a
Solanum melongena
(aubergine) cell culture extract to inhibit sensory mediators of discomfort and activate barrier-boosting pathways.
Literature/Data
Industry Insight: Seeing Through Layers of Skin Care Complexity
"With today’s advances in
omics
, generally ceramidomics, proteomics or lipidomics, we understand much better the complexity of area lipids in the stratum corneum; not only for body skin, but also for the face," says Tony Rawlings, Ph.D., in this exclusive interview.
Tech Transfer
Words from Wiechers: Dancing to the Dollar
In this installment of our "Words from Wiechers" series, co-author O'Lenick disagrees with Wiechers's belief that cosmetic and pharma businesses are driven by the same dynamics. Read on to learn more.
Method/Process
[video] Standardized Test to Assess Anti-irritant, After-sun Gel
While these researchers could not prove the efficacy of the after-sun gel, they did establish the first-known, standardized approach to assess the efficacy of an after-sun product. Learn more from the video.
Efficacy
Lost in Extraction: DNA Reveals the Impact of Filtering on Sand Daffodil Extract Traceability
The authentication and traceability of natural raw materials have been a recent focus in several industries. Here, four specific markers in materials derived from
Pancratium maritimum
, also known as sand daffodil or sea lily, are examined using DNA barcoding and metabarcoding. Results reveal the plant DNA, and therefore traceability, is largely degraded before entering cosmetic compositions.
Efficacy
Defending Integrity: Microemulsion to Restore Bleached and Dyed Hair Properties
Unlike skin, hair lacks regenerative properties, so it is important introduce components during bleaching and color treatments that preserve and maintain hair’s structure. The present article proposes a bis-PCA dimethicone solution, which acts via novel bonding mechanisms to impart cumulative strengthening in chemically treated hair.
Literature/Data
Lauder Findings on Sirtuins, Stress and Eucalyptus
New findings highlight the importance of sirtuins in skin cell activity, how they relate to environmental signals and circadian rhythm, plus the antioxidant efficacy of eucalyptus.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Active Transport: How Rheology Modifiers and Preservatives Impact Release
This study explores two formula parameters that could potentially influence the diffusion of an active through a hydrogel: the gelling agent and the preservative system. Here, caffeine was used as the active, along with a range of 12 gelling agents in a simple hydrogel formulation, with and without preservatives.
Efficacy
Total Breakdown: Recovering Anti-aging Efficacy After Collagen Fragmentation
When collagen breaks down, the broken fragments can hinder the performance of anti-aging actives over time. This column examines methods by which materials can overcome these aging-related issues in collagen production.
Efficacy
Words from Wiechers: Close to Borderland Science
"Where does cosmetic science stand? Is it normal science, borderland science or non-science, aka, nonsense?" This column discusses the science behind cosmetic claims.
Methods/Tools
The Camera Never Lies: Visualizing Sun Protection Loss and Ways to Fortify Films
This work utilizes a UVA camera specially designed to quantify UV protection. It confirms sunscreen efficacy loss over time. Results underline the need to improve the durability of sunscreen films; in relation, a natural wax derivative is exemplified.
Efficacy
Adaptive Measures: Translating UV Protection to Hair Claims
To test preventative hair care treatments against UV damage, sensitive techniques are required. Here, DSC was used to define a ratio between artificial and natural irradiance levels; from this, methods were built to substantiate claims for UV protection in hair.
Efficacy
Words from Wiechers: Perception of Reality or Reality of Perception?
"Suppliers promise quite a lot to their customers," Wiechers tells us. "And [manufacturers] love to insist on more...This attitude promotes a shift from reality to perception." Read on to learn this month's lesson from Wiechers.
Consumers/Market
Editor's Note: Menagerie of Inspiration
From trending claims and global demands to individual expression, consumers provide a menagerie of inspiration for product development.
Efficacy
Tress Stress: How the Environment Affects Hair
The drive for "anti-pollution" personal care may not apply to hair care as strongly as other segments. Despite this, environmental stressors can impact hair's chemistry. This column provides a scientific basis by which formulation and claims strategies might be constructed.
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