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Type: Article

Section: Research > Literature/Data

The Latest in Whitening Agents

In recent years, new agents, especially from plants, have been discovered and extracted to test for their depigmenting effects in vitro and in vivo. This article reviews these most recent skin whitening agents of interest, whose efficacy, mechanism and safety have been tested.

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Lipsticks: How They Have Changed and Where They Are Going

The composition of lipstick formulations and means of manufacturing and filling them have progressed significantly in the last 100 years. This article reviews the most notable developments in methods of production, innovations in both functional and active ingredients, and breakthroughs in processing. In addition, it explores what the future could hold for lipsticks.

The Latest in Skin Science: A Periodical Review

In this article, the author reviews recent literature introduced as recommended reading for cosmetic chemists interested in skin care topics such as moisturization, response to stress, penetration and aging.

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Comparatively Speaking: Lips vs. Skin

If you're a "lip reader," you may know why lips tend to chap more than skin. Or why they're usually reddish in color. If you don't know why, this edition of "Comparatively Speaking" gives you a nice primer.

Innovations in transfer resistance and long wear makeup have continued apace, and it certainly appears that advances in this field will continue for the foreseeable future.

Two Decades of Transfer-resistant Lipstick

It has been two decades since Revlon revolutionized the color cosmetic market by debuting transfer-resistant lipstick. Innovations in transfer resistance and long wear makeup have continued apace, and it certainly appears that advances in this field will continue for the foreseeable future. This article reviews the literature to show the evolution of chemistries and concepts in this prominent market.

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Patent Pick: Lips Sealed with Improved Occlusion

Cosmetic elegance, not to mention lip moisture, did not escape these Glaxosmithkline inventors in a recent patent submission for lip care.

From Plant Extracts to Novel Lipstick Compositions

Obayashi reviews the effects of plant extracts for photoaging skin. His review, with 20 references, covers the mechanism of photoaging and herbs with anti-photoaging activity.

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[with formulas] Comparatively Speaking: Traditional vs. Transfer-resistant Lipstick

This installment of the "Comparatively Speaking" column offers formulators a "Lipstick 101" primer, complete with step-by-step instructions, quality control considerations, and standard vs. transfer-resistant sample formulas.

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Lip-smacking Results: Mixture Design ‘Pays Off’ to Optimize Wax/Oil Lipstick Ratio

This article explores Mixture Design for lipstick development. The approach models the blending surface with a suitable mathematical equation to identify ideal ingredient ratios. As is shown here, Mixture Design can effectively optimize lipstick formulations, saving development time and costs.

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Preserving the Facts on Parabens: An Overview of These Important Tools of the Trade

Parabens have a long history as effective preservatives in foods, cosmetics and drugs, with extensively documented human and environmental safety profiles. This article reviews these important ingredients.

Patent Picks—Lipstick Gloss, Probiotics, Anti-acne, Cosmetic Films, Heat Shock Proteins and More for Skin

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features inventions related to cosmetics and skin care, including heat to improve lipstick gloss and probiotics for oily skin, as well as heat shock proteins, FABACs, improved vitamin C derivatives, an anti-acne blend, a skin-smoothing cosmetic film and a photo-initiated filler from the medical field.

The Effect of Glycerol on the Water-holding Capacity of Chemically Irritated Skin*

Glycerol is one humectant commonly employed due to its high hygroscopic and hyperosmotic properties. It is used in cosmetics as a moisturizer and in pharmaceutical formulations as an active compound.2 Being naturally present in the skin, glycerol was quickly identified for its role in skin hydration, similar to natural moisturizing factors (NMF).

Aquaporins: The One-Molecule-at-a-Time Moisturizer

This column describes aquaporins and outlines their 16-year history, with particular interest in an aquaglycero-porin found in human skin. Future columns will highlight the activities of several cosmetic manufacturers and their compositions to “stimulate” that aquaporin as a way to beautify human skin and hair.

Validating the Effectiveness of Rubbing on Percutaneous Penetration

The effect of rubbing on percutaneous penetration has long been questioned. Existing data regarding rubbing effects is sparse, and what is available is controversial at best. While some evidence suggests that rubbing increases absorption, others note the opposite. Further understanding of the rubbing effect on percutaneous penetration may offer a more complete picture in relation to the application of drugs, cosmetics and skin care.

Aquaporins: The One-Molecule-at-a-Time Moisturizer

This column describes aquaporins and outlines their 16-year history, with particular interest in an aquaglycero-porin found in human skin. Future columns will highlight the activities of several cosmetic manufacturers and their compositions to “stimulate” that aquaporin as a way to beautify human skin and hair.

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Don’t Count On Genetics, Sunscreens are the Best Bet

In a podcast with P&G scientists Frauke Neuser, Ph.D. and Rosemarie Osborne, Ph.D., Cosmetics & Toiletries learned about genetic studies in support of the Olay brand, and more. Following is an excerpt.

Formulating Focus: The Influence of Emollients on Skin Penetration

This column will discuss ways in which ingredients can positively affect the partition coefficient of the active between the formula and the skin. By carefully selecting the emollients used in a formulation, formulators can increase the delivery and clinical efficacy of a formulation without increasing the level of the active ingredient.

Formulating Focus: The Influence of Emollients on Skin Penetration

This column will discuss ways in which ingredients can positively affect the partition coefficient of the active between the formula and the skin. By carefully selecting the emollients used in a formulation, formulators can increase the delivery and clinical efficacy of a formulation without increasing the level of the active ingredient.

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