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Section: Formulas/Products > Skin Care
Literature/Data
Black Truffle, Nanocrystals and Flexible Films: Recent Literature Findings
In this monthly survey of recent patent and literature research, the author describes money-making ideas in the personal care industry, ranging from a water-soluble scrubbing agent and black truffle for cell proliferation, to ascorbyl palmitate nanocrystals and an o/w emulsion for eyelash-volumizing and lengthening, among others.
Actives
Ascorbyl Lactoside: A New Vitamin C Derivative for Effective Skin Whitening
A new vitamin C derivative, ascorbyl lactoside (AsL), was synthesized and characterized for its stability and safety, and evaluated for anti-tyrosinase and melanin reduction effects. The material showed excellent whitening effects and exhibited better stability than ascorbic acid. It also possessed the lowest cytotoxicity, in comparison with ascorbyl glucoside, kojic acid and arbutin.
Actives
Naturally Inhibit Fragrance Degradation: Rice Bran Sterols in Emulsions
The use of phytosterols is proposed here to retard the deterioration of cosmetic emulsions caused by perfume degradation. For the described tests, phytosterols from crude rice bran oil, a natural and economic choice, were used. A simple and easily controlled technique is described through which the phytosterols provided the desired results.
Formulating Basics
Formulating on Trend: Microbiome-conscious Skin Care
In this installment of "Formulating on Trend," the author describes how to optimize formulas for the microbiome, which can be achieved by supporting the skin's ecosystem and the microorganisms in it.
Event Coverage
6 New Trends in Cosmetic Technology
The topics described during in this conference session were but a sampling of innovation scattered throughout the in-cosmetics Global show floor. But their overall tone seemed to accurately reflect a larger future direction of the industry.
Literature/Data
Silica Nanoparticles for Increased Cosmetic Ingredient Efficacy*
Nanotechnology is a rapidly expanding area of research for developing science-based solutions for innovative therapeutics. Recently, silica nanoparticles (SNPs) have emerged in cosmetics and dermal preparations, offering revolutionary application by controlling the sustained release of cosmetic ingredients and/or drugs and enhanced skin penetration.
Skin Care
Aquaporins: Stimulation by Vitamins, Steroids and Sugar Alcohols
Aquaporins are proteins that reside in the cellular membrane. In response to osmotic forces, they control the passage of specific materials into and out of the cell. As reported previously, one type of aquaporin in human skin is aquaporin-3 (AQP3). Four personal care companies have studied the world of biochemicals to discover AQP3 stimulators from three different sources: vitamins, steroids and sugar alcohols, which are described here.
Literature/Data
Anti-pollution Cosmetics: In the Face of a Changing Environment
Pollution in different forms and media can cause skin distress of various types. In response, leading global cosmetic companies are turning to a full spectrum of anti-pollution ingredients for answers. Both the negative effects of pollution on skin, and ingredients and products to protect against this damage are reviewed here.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Testing Tactics in Skin: A View of Visible Light Protection
Blue light, in particular, may be responsible for most of the adverse skin reactions caused by visible wavelengths. This column reviews methods to screen for materials that protect against blue light but also allow its benefits to shine through.
Skin Care
Facial Sheet Masks on the Go: Reviving the Face
Facial sheet masks have numerous benefits, such as delivering active materials to the skin and leaving the face feeling moisturized. Innovations in sheet masks are on the rise, and formulators are searching for new materials that are safer, friendlier for the skin and environment, and sensorially pleasing.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Protection of Retinol in Organosilica Microparticles
In this article, retinol encapsulated in organosilica microparticles (12–14% w/w) having an average particle size of 0.3 micron are shown in a 40-day test period to exhibit enhanced stability to oxidation when compared with similar commercial stabilized retinol products.
Skin Care
Aquaporins: Stimulation by Vitamins, Steroids and Sugar Alcohols
Aquaporins are proteins that reside in the cellular membrane. In response to osmotic forces, they control the passage of specific materials into and out of the cell. As reported previously, one type of aquaporin in human skin is aquaporin-3 (AQP3). Four personal care companies have studied the world of biochemicals to discover AQP3 stimulators from three different sources: vitamins, steroids and sugar alcohols, which are described here.
Event Coverage
Which Indie Beauty Formulas Will Take Home a
C&T Allē
in 2024?
Which indie formulas will win C&T Allē Awards in 2024? Find out at our exclusive red carpet-style awards dinner on March 6, 2024, at the Biltmore in Los Angeles – alongside our inspiring
Beauty Accelerate
event. Following are the contenders...
Event Coverage
Emotion, Visualization and Innovation at IFSCC in Rio
The IFSCC conference covered an array of subjects—from the psychology of rotating brushes, and discussion of neuron-adipocyte crosstalk to limit emotional stress-mediated fat accumulation; to hair straightening and conditioning, various visualization tools, and novel formulation approaches.
Literature/Data
Epigenetics and Aging: A New Player in Skin Care
The cosmetics and skin care industry is constantly developing new products and technologies that aim to slow down the skin aging process. Epigenetic processes play an important role in skin aging. Several new cosmetic products target epigenetic mechanisms and have shown promising results as novel cosmeceuticals.
Natural/Sustainable
Targeting Zero Waste: How Beauty is Transitioning to a Circular Economy
The growing waste crisis is prompting changes across the beauty industry. Following are examples in ingredients, product forms, packaging and processing, with added insights from two waterless brands making waves in hair and skin care: AROVE and Onélogy.
Sensory
Vegetal-derived Emulsifiers for Improved Stability and Formula Efficiency
The quest for PEG-free surfactants and emulsifiers has led to new classes of vegetal-derived, ethylene oxide-free ingredients for environmentally friendly personal care products. Two such ingredients, described here, are based on the combination of olive oil and vegetable proteins with the first derived from oat and the second, with glutamic acid. These materials provide mildness and skin protection benefits.
Efficacy
Smart Lipid-carotene System for Targeted Free Radical-Scavenging
In this study, the authors evaluated the effectiveness of a new smart lipid system in stabilizing and delivering carotenes into the epidermis. The system is shown effective in providing free-radical (FR) scavenging at different stages of skin exposure: immediately neutralizing FR present in the skin, blocking FR formation during UV exposure, and accelerating skin recovery after UV exposure.
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