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Section: Formulas/Products > Skin Care

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Human Growth Factors as Natural Healers: Current Literature and Application

The medical community’s research toward the advancement of healing and tissue regeneration has identified Human Growth Factors (HGF) as critical components in cutaneous wound healing, suggesting their potential for skin cell rejuvenation. Here, the author reviews the present work in this area and proposes HGFs for skin regeneration and reparative products, providing an example.

Formula Anatomy Deciphered: Anti-wrinkle Skin Care

For consumers, antiaging has many definitions and is a marketing position for a variety of topical personal care products. Within the antiaging category are a number of consumer products claiming to prevent or treat facial wrinkling.

Sourcing and Using Maca and Suma Roots

In recent years, interest in sourcing plant roots as active ingredients for cosmetic use has grown tremendously. Roots such as maca and suma are rich in secondary metabolites and, as described here, can have specific actions on skin to increase its vitality and response to environmental stresses.

Deglycation Mechanism to Treat Diabetic, Elderly and Xerotic Skin

The non-enzymatic process of glycation affects macromolecules in the skin, causing premature aging especially under diabetic, xerotic and elderly conditions. As the present research describes, a mechanism of deglycation can be used to target these conditions using an imidazole derivate. Here, in vitro and in vivo assays on diabetic, xerotic and elderly panels show statistically significant positive results.

Nature-inspired Innovation

The intersection of R&D and consumer needs.

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When Acne Attacks, Hexylresorcinol and Ethyl Linoleate Fight Back (part I)

Although P. acnes is a commensal bacterium of normal skin, together with the sebaceous gland, it clearly is implicated in acne. Here, P. acnes and other possible causes are reviewed, and a hexylresorcinol and ethyl linoleate anti-acne treatment to target them is described.

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Ingredient Profile: Lanolin and Plant-Based Alternatives for Natural Moisturization

Lanolin’s unique composition imparts excellent skin moisturization in body care, lip care and more. This paper reviews the composition, safety and benefits of lanolin along with plant-based alternatives to offer formulators natural moisturizer solutions.

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Secrets to Shaping Beauty into Body Care: How Claims, Ingredients and Challenges Translate

What's driving the body care boom? How do beauty trends translate? Here, we explore new launches and insights from Anushka Nadkarni, Bentley Labs; Ron Robinson, BeautyStat; Rita Silva, DECIEM; and Jean-Christophe Choulot, Caudalíe, to find out.

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Brassica Breakthrough: Herbal Anti-acne Alternative Proves Clinically Effective

While there are numerous topical and systemic treatments for acne, antibiotic resistance and toxic interactions are a challenge. This article explores the clinical efficacy of a Brassica oleracea blend as an alternative topical acne treatment.

Caprylyl Glycol/Phenethyl Alcohol Blend for Alternative Preservation of Cosmetics

In recent years, the safety of traditional preservatives has been called into question. Therefore, there is a need for alternatives that are effective, safe and sustainable—and that are non-controversial. In response, the present work investigates a mixture of caprylyl glycol and phenethyl alcohol, which is shown to provide antimicrobial activity in various skin and hair care formulations.

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Total Wellness Through Traditional: Ayurveda in Cosmetics, Part I

The herbal beauty care business has given rise to an opportunity for ayurvedic cosmetics. To remain genuine to their ancient tradition, one must understand their foundation and the synergy between ayurveda and cosmetics. This first in a two-part series reveals these connections and theories for formulating in this future market. Part two will discuss ingredients and application.

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Speeding Up R&D: Spotting Clues to Anticipate Stability Problems

Besides directing cosmetic beginners to read the abundant literature in the field of stability, the aim of this article is to give some clues for starting stability matters “with the right foot”—indeed, to anticipate stability problems helps to speed up the R&D process.

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How a Bio-optimized Collagen Peptide Masters Timeless Beauty

A hexapeptide was developed based on the human skin type I collagen sequence. Its activities on skin biomarkers, procollagen I and hyaluronic acid release and for dermal matrix protection and facial contouring benefits, were tested as described here.

Caviar Lime AHAs for Novel TRPV3 Action and Exfoliating Benefits

Caviar lime fruit extract is identified in this article as a source of natural AHAs capable of stimulating TRPV3 channel expression and activity for gentle exfoliation of the skin. Clinical evidence of effectiveness is presented.

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Infusing New Life into an Old Reliable Skin Treatment: Retinaldehyde

Retinaldehyde is suitable for many skin care applications, and when combined with other substances becomes even more versatile. One of its newest topical delivery systems provides multifunctional opportunities.

Enriched Shea Extract to Target ZAG for Anti-cellulite Effects

In humans, the ZAG protein is a modulator of fat mobilization. The present paper identifies an unroasted shea butter extract, enriched in viminalol esters, as a stimulator of ZAG expression and secretion by keratinocytes in vitro. Further, a complex containing the extract is shown to significantly improve the appearance of cellulite within 28 days of application in a clinical setting.

Penetration of Cosmetics Into and Through the Stratum Corneum

The penetration routes of substances through the stratum corneum and how these transport pathways function are becoming better understood. Despite this progress, however, the penetration mechanisms of cosmetic formulations remain mysterious. This overview presents current knowledge on the various pathways of penetration, and suggests that even if cosmetic formulations penetrate no deeper than the surface, their efficacy may still be optimal.

Body care has boomed as consumers are finally treating the skin on their bodies as they do the skin on their faces.

Body Skin Firming and Tightening Through Multiple Courses of Action

This article reviews the factors causing skin wrinkling and sagging, and explores pathways to counteract multiple concerns to firm and tighten skin. It also describes combinations of ingredients to impart the desired benefits.

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