
Derived from natural, renewable sheep's wool, lanolin has been used in cosmetics for centuries. Its unique composition and exceptional moisturizing properties are useful in applications ranging from lotions, creams, balms, etc., for body care, lip care and more. In fact, the global lanolin market is projected to increase at a CAGR of 4.2% from 2024 to 2030, driven by consumer preference for natural and sustainable ingredients.1
Still, lanolin has faced challenges due to its claimed allergenicity as well as its animal source. This has led to the development of lanolin alternatives. Notably, reports of its sensitizing effects are controversial; dermatologist Albert Kligman, M.D., even claimed lanolin allergy to be a myth.2 Furthermore, while lanolin can be certified as cruelty-free, it is not considered vegan.
The present paper reviews the benefits of lanolin for cosmetic formulations. It also offers select examples of plant-based lanolin replacements.
Lanolin Composition and Properties
Lanolin is a natural wax produced by the sebaceous glands of sheep that forms a protective coating on their wool fibers. Despite sometimes being referred to as wool fat or wool grease, lanolin does not contain the triglycerides that animal fats and seed oils do.3, 4
Lanolin is a complex mixture consisting primarily of esters, diesters and hydroxy esters of aliphatic alcohols/sterols (C12-C38) and hydroxy acids.4-6 It has a thick consistency that is attributed to the presence of long-chain fatty acids and alcohols, making it viscous and somewhat sticky. Lanolin typically has a yellowish to amber hue, although the color can vary considerably depending on its purity and processing.
Lanolin Extraction and Refining
Materials and techniques for refining lanolin vary by manufacturer, so understanding the impact of these differences is important for interpreting specifications and performance.7 Lanolin can be obtained by the solvent extraction of wool fleece. It can also be derived by scouring wool with soap or neutral detergent, followed by either centrifugation of the resulting emulsion and breaking of the emulsion with acid, or production of foam (with air) and collection of the froth.
The crude form of wool wax is a darkly colored, viscous paste, and while suitable for industrial applications, it is refined to reduce impurities, color, odor and taste prior to use in cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications.6, 8 Wool wax can be bleached with hydrogen peroxide but this may increase the peroxide value and be mistaken as rancidity. The process must be carefully controlled, following which additional treatments can be used to remove residual organic peroxides.
Small amounts of an antioxidant like butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) or tocopherol are often added but regardless, lanolin should be carefully stored and inspected prior to use for signs of surface oxidation, which results in a darkening of its color.9 In the last phase of refinement, any residual water is eliminated from the lanolin through a vacuum-drying process, resulting in a pale, ointment-like substance.
Lanolin Application in Cosmetics and Drugs
Lanolin has a high similarity in composition and structure with human SC lipids.10 It acts as an occlusive moisturizer by forming a barrier on the skin's surface, which helps to prevent moisture loss. This barrier function is less pronounced than that of petrolatum, which can reduce TEWL by more than 98%, but lanolin still effectively reduces TEWL by 20-30%.11, 12
Lanolin has been shown to penetrate to the stratum granulosum and incorporate into the lipid matrix surrounding skin cells, contributing to skin’s barrier properties.13 Its ability to act as both a humectant and occlusive moisturizing ingredient differentiates it from many other moisturizers. The polar hydroxyl groups of sterols and alcohols enable lanolin to bind water.13 Indeed, lanolin is known to absorb up to 400% its weight in water to form stable w/o emulsions. Highly emollient preparations of this type were historically referred to as absorption bases, exemplified by the enduring success of products such as the Nivea Crème formulaa.
Lanolin is listed as an active ingredient in the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA’s) skin protectant monograph and the skin protectant claim is permitted in combination with other regulated product categories like sunscreens, diaper rash creams, first aid antiseptics and external analgesics as long as the relevant rules are satisfied.14
Lanolin Safety, Allergen Fallacy
As noted, lanolin’s allergenic potential has been a source of controversy for decades.15 The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) expert panel reviewed the safety of lanolin and lanolin derivatives in 1980, 2003 and again more recently in April 2024, when the panel released a tentative report for public comment. Each subsequent review brings forward any new safety data from published studies identified through extensive literature searches as well as unpublished information provided by industry.
In the most recent report, the panel refers to lanolin as a weak sensitizer although its prevalence as such in the general population is extremely low. This risk is further reduced when lanolin is ultra-refined. Overall, the CIR’s conclusion was, once again, that lanolin and eight lanolin-derived ingredients are safe as currently used in cosmetics.16
Lanolin Alternatives
Since the color, characteristic odor and taste of lanolin, along with its non-vegan status, may be undesirable for certain applications, numerous plant-based alternatives have been developed. Due to lanolin’s unique composition, however, it can be challenging to fully replicate the material’s properties.17, 18
Suitable replacements for lanolin ideally have comparable water absorption, emulsifying capability, adhesion and skin-conditioning benefits; a few alternatives are reviewed below. Published data on the efficacy of ingredients marketed as lanolin replacements is limited and cited where applicable.
INCI: Soybean Glycerides (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Unsaponifiables: Unsaponifiable matter refers to the components present in oils and fats that cannot be converted into soap with alkali. These compounds include phytosterols, tocopherols and triterpenes.19 Shea butter is an excellent source for these compounds, as it contains 5 to 10 times more unsaponifiable matter than typical vegetable oils.20 This composition shares similar skin feel, structure, gloss, film-forming and water-absorbing capacities as lanolin. Excellent adhesion to skin also makes this a strong choice for lip color applications.
INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (and) Glyceryl Rosinate (and) Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables: A pale yellow to amber solid, glyceryl rosinate is made by combining glycerol with long-chain acids derived from rosin. Rosin is a sticky, amber to black colored resin derived from pine trees or other conifers. This material aids in mimicking the tacky, adhesive characteristics of lanolin. When evaluated in an emulsion compared to lanolin, this combination of ingredient provided similar organoleptic qualities but did not match the prolonged moisturization effects of lanolin.17
INCI: Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2: Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (BDPA) is a semi-solid palm-based ingredient consisting of complex esters of isostearic acid and adipic acid. BDPA has demonstrated similar performance to lanolin in reducing transepidermal water loss, and comparative waterproofing when additionally combined with propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate.21
Conclusions
Lanolin remains a highly valued ingredient in the cosmetics industry thanks to its exceptional moisturizing properties and ability to mimic the natural lipids found in human skin. While its naturally unique composition is not easily substituted, plant-based replacements are available that aim to replicate lanolin’s water absorption and occlusive moisturizing properties. For the estimated US $11.02 billion and growing moisturizer market (5.34% CAGR 2024-2032),22 both offer timely renewable, sustainable and natural solutions.
a Nivea is a product of Beiersdorf Global AG
References
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