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Section: Formulas/Products > Skin Care

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Read the Label: Tancream with SPF 50

This is a rich moisturizer, SPF 50 sunscreen (5-star UVA protection), gradual self-tanner and instant bronzer in one product. For all the chemists reading, yes, you read that right—self-tan and SPF in one product. Key ingredients include caramel, dihydroxyacetone, octocrylene and more.

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The Dirty Truth About Pollution-induced Skin Aging: The AhR Pathway Tells All

Studies have shown that exposure to airborne, traffic-related particulate matter (PM) is associated with increased signs of extrinsic skin aging.1-3 Using model particles as surrogates, these researchers developed an in vitro model to evaluate premature aging induced via the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) pathway. They found a new AhR antagonist could inhibit the up-regulation of genes indicative for premature aging.

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Stimulating Epidermal Regeneration with Plant-derived Stem Cells

Here, the authors describe mechanisms of stem cells and their potential for antiaging benefits. Cultures established from apple and grape varieties using a specialized culture technology revealed that aside from stimulating colony forming efficiency (CFE) and organogenic potential, the extracts improved the maintenance of epidermal stem cells. In addition, the grape extract provided UV protection.

Bromelain and papain are food enzymes found respectively in pineapple and papaya, and often used as cosmetic ingredients.

Enzymology: Accelerating Success in the Skin Care Market

While the benefits of enzymes have long been known, interest in enzymology for cosmetic and dermatological applications has grown. Advances in the functionality, safety and stability of enzymes are accelerating skin care product development; some are described here.

Kenvue Skin Care Research Findings Aad 2024 Microbiome Adobe Stock 586841786

Kenvue Drives Home the Clinical Efficacy Message, Uncovers Microbiome, Lipids, TXA, Acne and Other Findings

Kenvue highlighted 22 clinical findings from studies presented at this year's AAD. Topics included oats and the microbiome, NMF + lipids for a skin barrier boost, ZnO skin protection, acne care hydrocolloid patches, TXA + niacinamide, anti-aging and more.

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Cortisol, Blood Flow vs. Elasticity, and Neurocosmetics at IFSCC19

From the opening talk on botulinum toxin, and discussions of TRPV receptor reactivity, and stress and cortisol release, to the effects of blood flow on skin elasticity, IFSCC presenters tread into the grey areas of cosmeceuticals/quasi-drugs.

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Anti-aging, Pigmentation and Acne: The Depths of Chemical Peels

Today's anti-aging consumers diverge between relaxed well-aging and immediate effects—even turning to invasive treatments. In the latter context, this article discusses facial peels, to provide formulators a professional spa product perspective.

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Anti-pollution Skin Care: It's Real

'No kidding it's real,' you're probably thinking. Like naturals, though, at first it felt more like a passing fad. Now we know better, thanks to new research, some of which was presented in London earlier this year.

Consumer Perspective—Skin Care From Nature

In Europe, the natural and organic cosmetics market has grown despite the economic downturn. Consumers are increasingly concerned about skin care ingredients they see as posing potential health risks, due in large part to media hype. This has led many to look for natural ingredients on product labels.

Future of Green and Niche Markets Explored at MWSCC Technical Symposium

Over 110 attendees flocked to the Belvedere Events & Banquets in Elk Grove Village, Ill., USA, to attend the Midwest chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemist's (MWSCC) Fall Technical Symposium on Oct. 10, 2013.

In 2022, Lignopure commissioned the first GMP-compliant plant for lignin conversion, reportedly achieving the ability to recycle 90,000 kg of lignin annually.

Beauty Alternatives: Ingredient Trends

From upcycled technologies to improved oil-in water formulations, emerging ingredients are taking beauty to the next level.

“Consumers …[expect products to be] innovative, effective, long-lasting, sensitive skin friendly and [to protect] the skin from external aggressors.'

Care for Compromised Skin: Anti-climate Change, Barrier Health, Microbiome, Pollution Protection and Clinical Efficacy

What does the industry see as drivers in the current and future “compromised skin care” segment? We asked several experts to weigh in. Following are their responses.

woman in bathroom applying soothing skin cream to her shoulder relaxed facial expression

Expert Opinions on Compromised Skin: Dermocosmetics, Barrier Function, Brain-skin Connection, Microbiome, E-skin and Sensitive as the ‘New Norm’

Considering the market projections are for dermocosmetics to outpace general skin care, we asked industry experts to weigh in with their views of current drivers and future directions in dermocosmetics. Following are their comments.

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Fermentation Cosmetics: Bubbling Over With Innovation, Literally

While fermentation is perhaps best known for its application in food production, the process has gained interest from the cosmetics industry. This article briefly reviews recent examples of fermentation ingredients in cosmetics.

Black Truffle, Nanocrystals and Flexible Films: Recent Literature Findings

In this monthly survey of recent patent and literature research, the author describes money-making ideas in the personal care industry, ranging from a water-soluble scrubbing agent and black truffle for cell proliferation, to ascorbyl palmitate nanocrystals and an o/w emulsion for eyelash-volumizing and lengthening, among others.

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Soaking up the Self-Tan: The Pros and Cons of DHA and Self-tanners

Many people utilize non-UV tanning methods to meet fashion demands without exposing themselves to UV radiation. This article reviews the health benefits and possible drawbacks of dihydroxyacetone, the main active ingredient in self-tanning products.

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IFSCC Presents the Effectiveness, Economic and Ecological Aspects of Cosmetics

After sudden flooding in Thailand postponed the initial 2012 International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) Conference date, the Society of Cosmetic Chemists in Thailand (SCCT) organized a successful event at Bangkok’s Dusit Thani Hotel on Dec. 12–14, 2011.

Sustainable Ingredient Science

Sustainable Ingredient Science: Amazonian Aguaje and Pequi Palm Oils

The food and nutrition supply chain is often the first entry for “super plants” from the Amazon to the market, but other applications are increasing, especially in personal care and cosmetics. The present article profiles two Amazonian palm oils, aguaje and pequi, in terms of their sustainability, chemistry and application.

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