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Emotion, Visualization and Innovation at IFSCC in Rio

The IFSCC conference covered an array of subjects—from the psychology of rotating brushes, and discussion of neuron-adipocyte crosstalk to limit emotional stress-mediated fat accumulation; to hair straightening and conditioning, various visualization tools, and novel formulation approaches.

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When Acne Attacks, Hexylresorcinol and Ethyl Linoleate Fight Back (part I)

Although P. acnes is a commensal bacterium of normal skin, together with the sebaceous gland, it clearly is implicated in acne. Here, P. acnes and other possible causes are reviewed, and a hexylresorcinol and ethyl linoleate anti-acne treatment to target them is described.

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Naturally Inhibit Fragrance Degradation: Rice Bran Sterols in Emulsions

The use of phytosterols is proposed here to retard the deterioration of cosmetic emulsions caused by perfume degradation. For the described tests, phytosterols from crude rice bran oil, a natural and economic choice, were used. A simple and easily controlled technique is described through which the phytosterols provided the desired results.

Nature-inspired Innovation

The intersection of R&D and consumer needs.

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Ingredient Profile: Lanolin and Plant-Based Alternatives for Natural Moisturization

Lanolin’s unique composition imparts excellent skin moisturization in body care, lip care and more. This paper reviews the composition, safety and benefits of lanolin along with plant-based alternatives to offer formulators natural moisturizer solutions.

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Safer Solar Protection: Going Beyond UV Defense, Part I

This two-part article is controversial. In part I, it reviews a number of concerns about the safety of traditional sunscreens. In part II, scheduled for February, the authors propose new approaches to move past these issues.

From AI-driven discoveries to plant-based ingredients and preservative-free solutions, the beauty industry is innovating sustainability and product performance

Advanced Beauty Ingredients & Cutting Edge Claims

This round up is a report of the latest innovations set to reshape products in the years to come.

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Revolutionary Ingredients Transforming Anti-aging and Skin Health

This article explores the science and sustainability behind innovative cosmetic ingredients and how they address skin concerns like aging, oxidative stress and damage.

Aquaporins: Stimulation by Vitamins, Steroids and Sugar Alcohols

Aquaporins are proteins that reside in the cellular membrane. In response to osmotic forces, they control the passage of specific materials into and out of the cell. As reported previously, one type of aquaporin in human skin is aquaporin-3 (AQP3). Four personal care companies have studied the world of biochemicals to discover AQP3 stimulators from three different sources: vitamins, steroids and sugar alcohols, which are described here.

Ascorbyl Lactoside: A New Vitamin C Derivative for Effective Skin Whitening

A new vitamin C derivative, ascorbyl lactoside (AsL), was synthesized and characterized for its stability and safety, and evaluated for anti-tyrosinase and melanin reduction effects. The material showed excellent whitening effects and exhibited better stability than ascorbic acid. It also possessed the lowest cytotoxicity, in comparison with ascorbyl glucoside, kojic acid and arbutin.

Aquaporins: Stimulation by Vitamins, Steroids and Sugar Alcohols

Aquaporins are proteins that reside in the cellular membrane. In response to osmotic forces, they control the passage of specific materials into and out of the cell. As reported previously, one type of aquaporin in human skin is aquaporin-3 (AQP3). Four personal care companies have studied the world of biochemicals to discover AQP3 stimulators from three different sources: vitamins, steroids and sugar alcohols, which are described here.

Protection of Retinol in Organosilica Microparticles

In this article, retinol encapsulated in organosilica microparticles (12–14% w/w) having an average particle size of 0.3 micron are shown in a 40-day test period to exhibit enhanced stability to oxidation when compared with similar commercial stabilized retinol products.

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Beauty’s New Class of Anti-Aging Ingredient Tech

As the industry prepares for a new year of innovation, we looked at the latest batch of novel materials poised to shape product development in 2026 and beyond.

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Formulating for Menopausal Skin: Barrier Resilience, Structural Integrity and Skin Longevity Approaches

Menopausal skin presents distinct physiological and formulation challenges that extend beyond traditional anti-aging paradigms.

Nanotechnology in Cosmetics: A Review

As the commercial applications of nanotechnology have increased in the past decade, a number of nanoparticles are now being used in cosmetic products with optimized sensory attributes and consumer-perceivable benefits. This article reviews various forms of nanoparticles used in the cosmetic industry, discussing their properties, interactions with the skin and potential health effects.

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Perking Up Skin: Green Coffee Promotes Barrier Recovery, Turn Over and Lightening

Epidermal barrier recovery and the desquamation of dead corneocytes reinvigorate aged skin. Hyperpigmentation accumulates as skin ages. A green coffee bean extract was tested here and found to address these issues.

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Total Wellness Through Traditional: Ayurveda in Cosmetics, Part I

The herbal beauty care business has given rise to an opportunity for ayurvedic cosmetics. To remain genuine to their ancient tradition, one must understand their foundation and the synergy between ayurveda and cosmetics. This first in a two-part series reveals these connections and theories for formulating in this future market. Part two will discuss ingredients and application.

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Speeding Up R&D: Spotting Clues to Anticipate Stability Problems

Besides directing cosmetic beginners to read the abundant literature in the field of stability, the aim of this article is to give some clues for starting stability matters “with the right foot”—indeed, to anticipate stability problems helps to speed up the R&D process.