From salmon-free PDRN to a clean, green SPF booster, emerging ingredients are offering high performance and ethical credentials. As the industry prepares for a new year of innovation, we looked at the latest batch of novel materials poised to shape product development in 2026 and beyond.
VC-H1 is sourced from organically grown hibiscus and is composed of bioactive peptides from a collagen-like protein, along with free-radical scavenging hibiscus polyphenols.SHOTPRIME STUDIO at Adobe Stock
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From salmon-free PDRN to a clean, green SPF booster, emerging ingredients are offering high performance and ethical credentials. As the industry prepares for a new year of innovation, we looked at the latest batch of novel materials poised to shape product development in 2026 and beyond.
The Future of Collagen is Blooming: VC-H1
VC-H1 is sourced from organically grown hibiscus and is composed of bioactive peptides from a collagen-like protein, along with free-radical scavenging hibiscus polyphenols.SHOTPRIME STUDIO at Adobe Stock
VC-H1 is sourced from organically grown hibiscus and is composed of bioactive peptides from a collagen-like protein, along with free-radical scavenging hibiscus polyphenols.
VC-H1 reportedly stimulates collagen production more effectively than traditional animal-sourced collagen peptides and provides multiple validated skin health benefits at a 1.5 g dose.
The randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study demonstrated that VC-H1 provided significant benefits including:
- Deep, lasting hydration,
- Improved bounce and firmness,
- Enhanced skin surface texture and
- Visible age-defying effects.
“The key to the efficacy of VC-H1, and any collagen, really, are the short two- to four-amino-acid-length peptides that stimulate collagen production in the body,” noted Eric Withee, director of innovation at Freemen Nutra. “And VC-H1 has a very low molecular weight, meaning it is made almost entirely of these collagen-boosting peptides.”
"We see this as a tremendous opportunity to bring to our customers, especially those with a focus on sustainability, a research-backed ingredient in a high-demand category," commented Hanks Li, president of Freemen Nutra. "VC-H1 is not only an innovative option within the collagen market, but with a 1.5 g dose, many if not most of our customers will also see a cost savings. That is truly a rare opportunity."
Uniproma's New Anti-Aging Secret: It's Not Salmon, It's Science
Uniproma's new RJMPDRN REC (Sodium DNA) offers salmon-free anti-aging benefits with 100% sequence accuracy for boosting collagen and youthful skin.Kat Ka at Adobe Stock
The advanced ingredient, a recombinant polydeoxyribonucleotide (aka PDRN; INCI: Sodium DNA), is engineered for 100% sequence accuracy in every batch. This precision sets it apart from traditional salmon-derived PDRN, per the company.
In vitro, lab studies confirm its effects: RJMPDRN REC showed a significant increase in collagen production, outperforming natural salmon PDRN in boosting Collagen I and equally increasing Collagen III.
Additional technical advantages include the following.
Patented biological synthesis: 100% sequence accuracy with zero batch variation ensures consistent, high-purity results every time.
Cell-level power: Potent anti-inflammation through A2A receptor activation, inhibiting TNF-α for new skin health.
Green manufacturing: No animal sourcing and no ocean waste — new production aligning with global trends.
Scalable production: High purity with unlimited scalability through biotechnology, ensuring stable global supply.
The Berry Good News for Ageless Skin: Pterostilbene
A recent clinical trial has positioned pterostilbene, a natural compound found in blueberries and grapes, as a promising, more effective alternative to resveratrol in the fight against signs of aging.Sasha Brazhnik at Adobe Stock
The open access study, published in the Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology (JDSCT), tested a 0.1% pterostilbene emulsion in 31 subjects over the course of 28 days, revealing significant improvements in skin elasticity, firmness and wrinkle reduction vs. the control emulsion.
The trial used a double-blind, split-face design, where participants applied the pterostilbene emulsion to one side of their face and a control emulsion to the other. After 28 days, the pterostilbene-treated side showed:
- Firmer, more elastic skin,
- Reduced wrinkles, including on the forehead and Crow’s feet area, and
- Smaller visible pores and a thicker epidermis, supported by increased collagen and elastic fibers.
According to the study, pterostilbene has demonstrated higher bioavailability and pharmacological potency compared with its parent compound resveratrol.
In addition, pterostilbene is reportedly stabler, making it more effective in skin care formulations. Indeed, according to an article in Biochemistry and Biophysics Reports, resveratrol has a shorter half-life than its pterostilbene analogue.
Finally, pterostilbene also demonstrates greater ROS-scavenging capacity than resveratrol.
These advantages, according to a study in the Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, can be attributed to pterostilbene's two –OCH3 groups that make it more lipophilic, enhancing its membrane permeability, bioavailability, stability and biological potency. The health and longevity brand Jung+ adds that resveratrol contains hydroxyl groups (-OH), making it less stable and more quickly metabolized.
Pterostilbene’s benefits extend beyond skin care. According to the JDSCT study, it has anti-inflammatory properties and is being investigated for diabetes, cancer, cardiovascular diseases and neurodegenerative disorders, among others.
Its ability to stimulate collagen production could also make it a game-changer in anti-aging treatments, surpassing existing ingredients like retinol and vitamin C, Popular Mechanics reports.
While pterostilbene is not yet a household name, its potential is undeniable. It gained media attention earlier this year in Sports Medicine Weekly and SciTechDaily, and researchers are calling for further studies to explore its effects across different demographics and concentrations.
With its proven efficacy and superior properties, pterostilbene could soon become a staple in the next generation of skin care products.
Cool, Calm and Resilient: Meet the Skin Care Hero from Prickly Pear
Deinde's Instant-Calming Recovery Gel features biotech-derived dihydrokaempferol (DHK) as the primary active ingredient. The cooling treatment demonstrates clinically proven efficacy in providing immediate relief while improving skin barrier function, per the company.
As Deinde reports, DHK (dihydrokaempferol) represents a breakthrough antioxidant naturally occurring in prickly pear cactus (Opuntia species), which demonstrates remarkable resilience in extreme environmental conditions. The biotech-derived version eliminates the sustainability challenges associated with traditional botanical extraction, while maintaining the compound's therapeutic properties.
The ingredient's mechanism of action centers on immediate skin calming and soothing effects, delivering improved complexion evenness, while enhancing skin resilience to environmental stressors over time. Clinical applications include:
- post-procedure care,
- mitigation of active ingredient irritation (particularly retinol) and
- treatment of environmental damage including sunburn, windburn and xerosis.
The gel formulation additionally incorporates a multi-component active system beyond DHK:
- Polysaccharides: Sugar-based protective molecules to form a biomimetic barrier, shielding skin from environmental pollutants and particulate matter adhesion; and
- Biotech squalane: A skin-identical lipid that mimics kin's natural sebaceous composition, to optimizing moisture retention while providing lightweight sensory properties.
This combination reportedly supports Deinde's commitment to formulations with ≥ 94% bio-based content, aligning with industry sustainability targets.
Bakuchiol Just Got a Major Glow-Up: Pure Plus
Ichimaru Pharcos has launched Bakuchiol Pure Plus, a new cosmetic ingredient that sets a higher standard for purity and stability in plant-based retinol alternatives. NadiaA at Adobe Stock
Bakuchiol Pure Plus (INCI: Bakuchiol) is manufactured from the seeds of the Babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia L.) using a sustainable, supercritical carbon dioxide extraction method. According to the company, this environmentally friendly process eliminates the need for harsh solvents and results in a product with superior clarity and stability compared to conventional bakuchiol extracts.
Its Natural Index (NI) of 1, according to ISO 16128, additionally confirms its natural origin and user-friendly profile.
This new ingredient reportedly provides significant skin care benefits, including:
- wrinkle reduction,
- the promotion of healthy keratinization, and
- overall skin improvement.
Per the company, by minimizing trace impurities, Ichimaru Pharcos has enhanced the material's performance, delivering a reliable and effective solution for formulators seeking a natural alternative to retinol.
In line with its commitment to ethical sourcing, Ichimaru Pharcos ensures that Bakuchiol Pure Plus adheres to the principles of the Convention on Biological Diversity (CBD). An access agreement has been established between the company's Indian partner and the State Biodiversity Committee of the region of origin, ensuring the responsible and commercial utilization of biological resources.
This makes Bakuchiol Pure Plus a highly sustainable—as well as responsible—raw material for the cosmetics industry.
Rinse & Shine: Ceramides Make a Splash in Cleansers
Croda Beauty Actives has introduced DS-HydroCeramide50 and 50S, bio-fermentation-derived skin-identical ceramide NP ingredients from the company's SphingoCare range.Image courtesy of Croda Beauty Actives
According to the company, DS-HydroCeramide50 and 50S (INCI: Ceramide NP (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate (and) Sucrose Stearate (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin) represent significant advancements for rinse-off applications, addressing the challenge of incorporating ceramides into gentle cleansers and body washes while maintaining product stability.
The ingredients employ a water-dispersible solid lipid particle technology to overcome traditional ceramide formulation limitations. As Croda explains, this vectorization system enables controlled, continuous ceramide delivery into the epidermis while operating at incorporation temperatures below 50°C.
DS-HydroCeramide50 is a water-dispersible form of oleic acid moiety ceramide NP while DS-HydroCeramide50S a water dispersible form of stearic acid moiety ceramide NP. The technologies thereby simplify formulation processes compared to conventional pure ceramide applications, per the company.
In addition, the company underscores the ingredients' ability to boost skin ceramide neo-synthesis, providing a dual action and ensuring prolonged efficacy.
DS-HydroCeramide50 is a water-dispersible form of oleic acid moiety ceramide NP while DS-HydroCeramide50S a water dispersible form of stearic acid moiety ceramide NP. Image by oriori at Adobe Stock
Skin permeation studies demonstrated DS-HydroCeramide50 achieved +93.7% increased ceramide penetration versus control, significantly outperforming non-vectorized ceramide NP at +56.1%, the company highlights.
Finally, a 14-day study following a barrier disruption simulation showed the ingredient reduced transepidermal water loss by 27%, indicating enhanced barrier reinforcement capabilities.
In addition, electroencephalogram evaluation of the effects of DS-HydroCeramide50 formulated in light cream demonstrated a positive influence on comfort and pampering sensations in test subjects versus placebo controls, the company reports.
Croda Beauty Actives Highlights its DS-HydroCeramide50 meets 100% natural-origin content requirements per ISO16128 standards. The ingredient also reportedly maintains vegan suitability and holds RSPO, Natrue and COSMOS approvals. IECIC listing additionally ensures regulatory compliance across multiple markets.
An SPF Booster That’s Redefining Clean Beauty
Swiss-based bio-materials firm Seprify has launched the cellulose-based SilvaLuma, which can reportedly double SPF values at just 3% dosage levels, per in vitro studies, which can lower UV filter loads without sacrificing protection.Seprify
The ingredient technology is derived from the company's prototype SkyWhite pigment and allows for reef-safe claims, while supporting non-greasy, non-sticky, matte finishes with no white cast.
SilvaLuma disperses in both oil and water phases, functions at 1-5% use levels, and can act as a stabilizer or co-emulsifier, making it highly versatile across formats, including:
- creams
- gels
- serums
- powders
- sticks
(Per the company, the ingredient technology can also act as a TiO2 replacement in oral care.)
SilvaLuma is fully biodegradable, microplastic-free and compliant with EC 1223/2009 as a non-nano material.
The ingredient is produced using Seprify’s proprietary process, which reportedly achieves up to 70% lower greenhouse gas emissions compared to conventional pulp-based materials by leveraging low-energy processed, recycling all chemicals involved and sustainable sourcing from nearby pulp mills.
Seprify’s process also eliminates chemical-intensive wastewater treatment and reduces energy demand by more than 50%.
“With SilvaLuma, we’re proving that formulators no longer have to choose between performance and principles,” said Lukas Schertel, Ph.D., CEO and co-founder of Seprify. “Building on the foundation of SkyWhite, SilvaLuma delivers targeted SPF-boosting power with refined validation and commercial focus. By controlling how cellulose structures interact with light, we provide mattifying solutions and meaningful SPF enhancement in a cleaner, simpler way—exactly what consumers expect from modern beauty.”
