Search Cosmetics & Toiletries

Formulas Deciphered: Facial Wash

Complementing his regular “Anatomy of a Formula” column that explains how to build formulas from individual ingredients, Eric Abrutyn now takes a top-down approach by breaking commercial products down to examine their individual components in this new column, “Formulas Deciphered.”

Patent Picks—Water Resistance, Vitamin D, Lactone for Stabilization and More

Chosen biweekly for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features patents related to sun care and photoprotective technologies.

TanCream850x425

Read the Label: Tancream with SPF 50

This is a rich moisturizer, SPF 50 sunscreen (5-star UVA protection), gradual self-tanner and instant bronzer in one product. For all the chemists reading, yes, you read that right—self-tan and SPF in one product. Key ingredients include caramel, dihydroxyacetone, octocrylene and more.

Bromelain and papain are food enzymes found respectively in pineapple and papaya, and often used as cosmetic ingredients.

Enzymology: Accelerating Success in the Skin Care Market

While the benefits of enzymes have long been known, interest in enzymology for cosmetic and dermatological applications has grown. Advances in the functionality, safety and stability of enzymes are accelerating skin care product development; some are described here.

Studies have demonstrated that wild teasel could be a natural source of bioactive compounds, particularly phenolics and iridoids, and have confirmed its high potential for the cosmetic industry. For example, teasel features strong antioxidant activity, especially in leaf extracts

DNA Metabarcoding Tracks Traceability of Naturals: Wild Teasel Case Study

This study authenticates D. fullonum from raw material to final ingredient. It compares D. fullonum and D. sylvestris in a three-step study by: barcoding the raw material, metabarcoding the two extracts and bioinformatics processing.

“Consumers …[expect products to be] innovative, effective, long-lasting, sensitive skin friendly and [to protect] the skin from external aggressors.'

Care for Compromised Skin: Anti-climate Change, Barrier Health, Microbiome, Pollution Protection and Clinical Efficacy

What does the industry see as drivers in the current and future “compromised skin care” segment? We asked several experts to weigh in. Following are their responses.

woman in bathroom applying soothing skin cream to her shoulder relaxed facial expression

Expert Opinions on Compromised Skin: Dermocosmetics, Barrier Function, Brain-skin Connection, Microbiome, E-skin and Sensitive as the ‘New Norm’

Considering the market projections are for dermocosmetics to outpace general skin care, we asked industry experts to weigh in with their views of current drivers and future directions in dermocosmetics. Following are their comments.

WomanRejoiceSunBeachbag850x425

Photostability Leads the Way: Formulating Safer Sunscreens

The need to prevent skin from UV damage is well-understood but the most effective way to achieve this is not. Here, a novel photostabilizer is presented in a test pump sunscreen spray formula as part of a total photoprotection strategy.

Woman applying facial serum near eye with dropper applicator

Halting Premature Sking Aging by Improving Emotional Resilience: An Innovative Lactobacillus Extract as a Neuro-cosmetic Ingredient

This article introduces an innovative Lactobacillus rhamnosus GG postbiotic as a neuro-cosmetic ingredient designed to counter stress-related premature skin aging by improving emotional resilience and overall well-being.

AppleSkinCare850

Stimulating Epidermal Regeneration with Plant-derived Stem Cells

Here, the authors describe mechanisms of stem cells and their potential for antiaging benefits. Cultures established from apple and grape varieties using a specialized culture technology revealed that aside from stimulating colony forming efficiency (CFE) and organogenic potential, the extracts improved the maintenance of epidermal stem cells. In addition, the grape extract provided UV protection.

PollutionFaceCracking850

The Dirty Truth About Pollution-induced Skin Aging: The AhR Pathway Tells All

Studies have shown that exposure to airborne, traffic-related particulate matter (PM) is associated with increased signs of extrinsic skin aging.1-3 Using model particles as surrogates, these researchers developed an in vitro model to evaluate premature aging induced via the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) pathway. They found a new AhR antagonist could inhibit the up-regulation of genes indicative for premature aging.

WomanLayingWearingSheetMask850

Facial Sheet Masks on the Go: Reviving the Face

Facial sheet masks have numerous benefits, such as delivering active materials to the skin and leaving the face feeling moisturized. Innovations in sheet masks are on the rise, and formulators are searching for new materials that are safer, friendlier for the skin and environment, and sensorially pleasing.

CT1802_Maibach_pic1_850x850

Soaking up the Self-Tan: The Pros and Cons of DHA and Self-tanners

Many people utilize non-UV tanning methods to meet fashion demands without exposing themselves to UV radiation. This article reviews the health benefits and possible drawbacks of dihydroxyacetone, the main active ingredient in self-tanning products.

MakeupTech850

6 New Trends in Cosmetic Technology

The topics described during in this conference session were but a sampling of innovation scattered throughout the in-cosmetics Global show floor. But their overall tone seemed to accurately reflect a larger future direction of the industry.

Kenvue Skin Care Research Findings Aad 2024 Microbiome Adobe Stock 586841786

Kenvue Drives Home the Clinical Efficacy Message, Uncovers Microbiome, Lipids, TXA, Acne and Other Findings

Kenvue highlighted 22 clinical findings from studies presented at this year's AAD. Topics included oats and the microbiome, NMF + lipids for a skin barrier boost, ZnO skin protection, acne care hydrocolloid patches, TXA + niacinamide, anti-aging and more.

425-incosmetics

Beauty Must Refocus on Experience

What in-cosmetics revealed about the future of the beauty industry—from texture to sustainability to time.

Astronaut in white spacesuit gazing thoughtfully with planet in starry cosmic background

Cosmic Beauty: How Space Insights are Shaping Skin Care Innovations

Pollution and climate change speed skin aging, calling for innovative new solutions. Space stressors like radiation and microgravity mimic these effects, as described here, and can inspire technologies to tackle Earth’s skin care challenges.

Human-Growth-Factors-as-Natural-Healers

Human Growth Factors as Natural Healers: Current Literature and Application

The medical community’s research toward the advancement of healing and tissue regeneration has identified Human Growth Factors (HGF) as critical components in cutaneous wound healing, suggesting their potential for skin cell rejuvenation. Here, the author reviews the present work in this area and proposes HGFs for skin regeneration and reparative products, providing an example.