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Method/Process
Bio + Chemo Guidance Uncover New Benefits in Known Naturals:
Murraya Koenigii
Extract Case Study
Murraya koenigii
extracts derived via various techniques were compared. One developed through chem- and bio-guidance paired with a natural deep eutectic technology uncovered lesser-known efficacies, leading to a natural active to boost elastin synthesis.
Actives
Lightening, Boosting and Protecting with Colorless Carotenoids
Phytoene and phytofluene (P&P) are carotenoids that are precursors in the biosynthetic pathway of other carotenoids. These materials occur naturally in microorganisms, algae and other plants and exhibit benefits for skin care including skin lightening, anti-inflammatory activity and protection against UV and oxidative damage, as is shown here.
Literature/Data
Topical Delivery of Skin Care Ingredients
Incorporating performance ingredients in a formula does not guarantee they will penetrate the skin and deliver the claimed benefits. This review presents topical delivery approaches introduced in the past five years to improve the efficacy of benefit ingredients for skin care. Examples include molecular, carrier and Trojan horse delivery. Non-conventional delivery systems also are described.
Moisturizing
Read the Label: Revolution Skincare's Hydration Boost
This "Read the Label" looks at the ingredients and claims for Revolution Skincare's Hydration Boost. It contains moisturizing, preservative and anti-aging ingredients such as Borneo tallow nut seed butter, phenoxyethanol, sodium hyaluronate and more.
Organic/COSMOS
The Issues Common With Trending Natural Ingredients: The Pitfalls of Naturals
The ever-evolving nature of skin care presents ongoing challenges for marketing claims and labeling. Here are a few things to watch out for.
Consumers/Market
Breaking Down Under-eye Baggage: The Need for Novel Delivery
The under-eye area is delicate, with thin skin prone to dark circles, swelling and wrinkles. Novel delivery techniques that take this region’s physiology into account can help to facilitate under-eye skin health.
Skin Care
Cambrium Reveals Ex vivo Efficacy of NovaColl, Shares Future Outlook on Material Design
“Our molecular design technology enables us to achieve unprecedented material performance. ... We are very pleased that this data supports the unique ‘protect, maintain and enhance’ claim for NovaColl."
Anti-aging/Face
The Innovations Tackling the SPF Confidence Gap
Event Coverage
Meet the 2026
C&T Allē Awards
Finalists – Trailblazers in Beauty Innovation
The 2026
C&T Allē Awards
are just around the corner, celebrating the trailblazers of beauty innovation on May 18, 2026, in NYC. This year’s finalists represent the pinnacle of creativity, science and vision. Meet this year's contenders.
Actives
Old Meets New: Facial Mapping and TCM to Reach Booming Markets
Several ingredient examples from Traditional Chinese Medicine folklore are now validated by modern science. This article explores their potential for the aspirational Chinese market and considers how techniques such as facial-mapping demonstrate their efficacy.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Active Transport: How Rheology Modifiers and Preservatives Impact Release
This study explores two formula parameters that could potentially influence the diffusion of an active through a hydrogel: the gelling agent and the preservative system. Here, caffeine was used as the active, along with a range of 12 gelling agents in a simple hydrogel formulation, with and without preservatives.
Skin Care
Murad Launches Pore Clearing and Tightening Regimen
Murad Inc. has launched a regimen designed to clear and tighten pores. Pore Reform helps strengthen the pores’ natural support structure and reduce the appearance of blackheads caused by dead skin cells, oil and dirt in the follicles.
Formulating Basics
Formulating on Trend: Healing Acne Care
In this installment of "Formulating on Trend," the author describes the development of over-the-counter (OTC) anti-acne treatments. Specifically discussed are the types of acne, emollients and occlusives to optimize anti-acne efficacy.
Event Coverage
Which Indie Beauty Formulas Will Attain
C&T Allēs
in 2025?
Find out during our exclusive red carpet-style awards dinner, to be held on March 12, 2025, at the Ocean Place Resort & Spa in Long Branch, NJ. (Get your ticket now — space is limited.) Here are the finalist profiles.
Cleansing
Double Cleansing Product Spotlight: Clean It Zero Cleansing Balm
The global market for facial cleansing balms is projected to increase at a CAGR of 11.5% from 2025-2032, driven by the focus on skin health and trends such as double cleansing. Banila Co.'s Clean It Zero Cleansing Balm provides this week's example.
Literature/Data
Epigenetics and Aging: A New Player in Skin Care
The cosmetics and skin care industry is constantly developing new products and technologies that aim to slow down the skin aging process. Epigenetic processes play an important role in skin aging. Several new cosmetic products target epigenetic mechanisms and have shown promising results as novel cosmeceuticals.
Preservation
Preservation, Reimagined: Hybrid Antimicrobial Strategies for Safer, More Natural, Skin‑Protective Personal Care Products
Nature-aligned boosters transform preservation from necessity into value-adding benefit.
Anti-aging/Face
From Hydration to Cell Turnover: An Integral Approach to Antiaging
As the mechanisms of skin aging become better understood, their complexity commands a different approach for antiaging benefits—i.e., integrating multiple complementary actives into a single formulation. In the present article, the authors describe a comprehensive formula designed to effectively address sixteen different mechanisms of skin aging.
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![What does this mean for formulators? '[It provides] high efficacy, high levels of purity and a product that you can integrate into aqueous formulations.' Read on for more.](https://img.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/files/base/allured/all/image/2023/08/Cambrium_vegan_collagen_NovaColl_story_AdobeStock_400166121.64d3be8ca2bc9.png?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=crop&h=146&q=70&rect=0%2C150%2C2000%2C1125&w=260)
