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Cosmetic Ingredients
Bakuchiol to Stabilize Retinol and Polyunsaturated Lipids
Bakuchiol, a meroterpene of plant origin, is examined here for its ability to stabilize retinol and polyunsaturated lipids. It was found to be approximately 60-fold more effective than natural tocopherol, under both photo-oxidative and singlet oxygen environments. An overview of retinol stabilization, lipid peroxidation and the unique role lipid peroxides play in biology also is included.
Actives
Lightening and Illuminating Skin With Acetylated Hydroxystilbenes From
Rheum rhaponticum
Skin discoloration and excessive pigmentation due to increased melanin production is associated with skin inflammation and aging. Therefore, an extract rich in acetylated hydroxystilbenes from Rheum rhaponticum was combined with panthenyl triacetate to test in the melanogenesis pathway. The complex strongly reduced melanogenesis and melanin accumulation in human skin explants, decreased melanin content in pigmented spots, increased skin brightness and enhanced skin radiance on the face of human volunteers in a double-blind clinical study.
Actives
Anti-aging Skin Care Benefits of
Saccharina longicruris
Extract
Aging triggers the modification of gene expression levels, negatively affecting skin’s ultrastructural integrity and resulting in dry, saggy skin and the appearance of wrinkles. However, an extract of
Saccharina longicruris
has been found to restore the expression levels of specific genes in senescent fibroblasts, in turn improving barrier function and hydration, increasing elasticity and reducing wrinkles, which are described in this article.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Plant DNA, Aloesin, Pomegranate and More to Balance Skin
Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features technologies to balance skin condition, including tone, texture, oily and dry zones, and blemishes such as acne, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and scars.
Anti-aging/Face
Formulating Innovative Anti-aging Skin Care: A Q&A with L'Oréal's Gabrielle Sore
Here, Gabrielle Sore, scientific communication director of skin care for L'Oréal Research and Innovation, shares her thoughts on skin aging and the ingredients and techniques available to formulators that deliver new and more effective skin care products.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Cocoa Polyphenol, Navy Bean, Ginseng Berry, Anti-tyrosinase Esters and More in Skin Pigmentation
Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources and cover recent patents issued, or applied for, in the cosmetic and personal care industries and relevant peripheral markets. This edition features inventions related to skin pigmentation, including whitening treatments and those for redness reduction, among others.
Literature/Data
Survey of Skin Research Findings
Cosmetic science has outdone itself this year, with breakthroughs not just emerging, but rolling out in actual applications. Following is a brief literature review of recent skin care findings.
Event Coverage
Snail Slime, MMP-2 Trigger and More: Advances in Delivery and Efficacy at IFSCC19
Using the same approach to develop or test a product will not result in a step-change innovation. For this reason, new solutions to deliver, develop and test product efficacy were presented during the 2019 IFSCC Conference.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Caviar Lime AHAs for Novel TRPV3 Action and Exfoliating Benefits
Caviar lime fruit extract is identified in this article as a source of natural AHAs capable of stimulating TRPV3 channel expression and activity for gentle exfoliation of the skin. Clinical evidence of effectiveness is presented.
Specialized
How K-Beauty Advances Skin Care Through Next-Generation Delivery Systems and the Continuous Reinvention of Proven Actives
Current advances are driven by three distinct technologies: liposomes, exosomes and spicules.
Sensory
Optimizing Bigels for Sensoriality and Efficacy: DoE Insights on Aqueous and Oil Phase Components
DoE methods examined component interactions in bigels to optimize sensoriality, performance and stability. Tests using HEC and tucuma oil revealed effects on mechanics, rheology and stability, underscoring the need to balance internal/external phases.
Anti-aging/Face
Lab Lessons—Wise Words From the Bench with Anthony Vargas
Vargas entered the cosmetics industry like many others—by chance, when he answered a newspaper advertisement for a laboratory technician position at Avon in 1979. Although he did not know anything about cosmetics at the time, he took the utmost care in researching his ingredients, which led to the launch of a number of successful products and honed his keen eye for technologies.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Improving Soft Focus, Reducing Sensitivity, Tightening, Penetrating and More for Skin Care
Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features recent inventions related to color cosmetics, actives, immune response, foams, skin-tightening, delivery and more for skin care.
Event Coverage
Sensory, Eastern Formulating Trends and Ingredient Innovation at in-cosmetics Barcelona
Every spring, in-cosmetics in Europe draws attendees from around the world to learn about the latest in cosmetic ingredient and formulation technology, and 2015 was no different, with in-cosmetics 2015 in Barcelona seeing 8,578 visitors, 710 exhibitors and 105 new exhibitors.
Event Coverage
Top 14 Macro Trends for Beauty Innovation in 2025 and Beyond
The fourth quarter of 2024 was jam-packed with events — and ideas to spark beauty innovation. Here, we've grouped them into 14 macro trends we see for beauty innovation in 2025 and beyond. Brief notes, buzzwords and "honorable mentions" also are included.
Rheology/Thickener
Successfully Formulating at the Skin’s Natural Surface pH
Formulating high-performance skin care systems at low pH levels (4.0 to 5.5) can be beneficial for consumers and formulators in many ways, according to Florence Pecquerie, applications scientist and formulator for Lubrizol. Here, she reviews the current knowledge on skin surface pH, discusses the importance of pH on the efficacy of organic acid preservatives in formulation and introduces a new crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Read the Label: Selfless by Hyram—Mandelic Acid & Rice Bran Gentle Exfoliating Serum
This "Read the Label" analyzes Selfless by Hyram's Mandelic Acid & Rice Bran Gentle Exfoliating Serum, which is said to gently exfoliate skin with a blend of PHAs, salicylic acid, niacinamide and more.
Rheology/Thickener
Successfully Formulating at the Skin’s Natural Surface pH
Formulating high-performance skin care systems at low pH levels (4.0 to 5.5) can be beneficial for consumers and formulators in many ways, according to Florence Pecquerie, applications scientist and formulator for Lubrizol. Here, she reviews the current knowledge on skin surface pH, discusses the importance of pH on the efficacy of organic acid preservatives in formulation and introduces a new crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer.
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