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Cosmetic Ingredients
Swellable, Nanoporous Organosilica for Extended and Triggered Release
Nanoporous organosilica particles were developed to swell upon the addition of organic solvents. These are evaluated here for encapsulating and controlling the release of fragrance. Slower, continuous release was observed, suggesting their ability to extend sensory benefits. In addition, the stimulated release of encapsulated lidocaine was studied, and results implicate their use to deliver cosmetic actives.
Sensory
Fragrancing Sun Care Products
Outdoor, indoor and self-tanning products have different usage profiles, thus fragrancing each product type has special considerations with respect to the overall fragrance structure and the types of characters that work best. The present article reviews fragrance structure and discusses specific considerations for each product type to assist formulators in designing successful sun care products.
Skin Care
Exfoliation, Scrub and Gommage
Cosmetic means for achieving rejuvenated skin can be positioned according to intensity of action, skin renewal speed and some functioning details, thus: gommage, scrub, exfoliation and peel represent the four rejuvenation strategies. In some regions, peel refers to aggressive treatments requiring authorized operators such as dermatologists or medical doctors. Therefore, this column will discuss only the first three methods for a better skin glow.
Rheology/Thickener
Effect of Perfumes on the Viscosity of Surfactant Systems
It is well-known that perfumes can affect the viscosity of bubble bath or shampoo formulations. Usually they have a thinning effect, but they can also cause a viscosity increase. The effect and its magnitude will vary with perfume type and also with the product formulation. Small changes in the latter can cause large changes in a perfume's effect on the viscosity.
Actives
Sensational Sun Care with Protection and Sensory
Up until now, the sunscreen industry had not been able to deliver the advanced feel that consumers were seeking in their formulations, especially those containing inorganic sunscreen filters. To answer this need, Croda has developed an inorganic sunscreen filter with truly sensational skin feel.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Corel Pharma Chem Introduces Acrylate Polymer Hair Fixative
At in-cosmetics Asia, Corel Pharma Chem will introduce a cost-effective acrylate polymer hair fixative.
Skin Care
Exfoliation, Scrub and Gommage
Cosmetic means for achieving rejuvenated skin can be positioned according to intensity of action, skin renewal speed and some functioning details, thus: gommage, scrub, exfoliation and peel represent the four rejuvenation strategies. In some regions, peel refers to aggressive treatments requiring authorized operators such as dermatologists or medical doctors. Therefore, this column will discuss only the first three methods for a better skin glow.
Rheology/Thickener
Formulating for Electrolyte Resistance in Conjunction with Sensory Appeal
Skin care formulations often are enriched with high levels of electrolytic ingredients for various skin benefits. However, these have a negative impact on the viscosity, texture and stability of a system. Described in this article is a multifunctional polymer that is designed to provide excellent electrolyte resistance along with a pleasant sensory profile, as will be shown.
Sensory
Hair and Amino Acids
Amino acids are taken up by hair and assist in improving hair surface hydrophobicity, tensile strength and luster. This article discusses interactions between amino acids and hair.
Literature/Data
Formulating Focus: The Influence of Emollients on Skin Penetration
This column will discuss ways in which ingredients can positively affect the partition coefficient of the active between the formula and the skin. By carefully selecting the emollients used in a formulation, formulators can increase the delivery and clinical efficacy of a formulation without increasing the level of the active ingredient.
Sensory
Vegetal-derived Emulsifiers for Improved Stability and Formula Efficiency
The quest for PEG-free surfactants and emulsifiers has led to new classes of vegetal-derived, ethylene oxide-free ingredients for environmentally friendly personal care products. Two such ingredients, described here, are based on the combination of olive oil and vegetable proteins with the first derived from oat and the second, with glutamic acid. These materials provide mildness and skin protection benefits.
Sensory
Improving Tactile Properties of Vegetable Oils with Vegetable Oil-based Esters
Vegetable oil-based esters are shown by the authors to improve the tactile attributes of vegetable oil by lowering its viscosity and improving its spreadability, in addition to providing environmentally friendly options for cosmetic chemists.
Sensory
Understanding Fragrance in Personal Care
Fragrances often are used in personal care products to affect the consumer’s perception of product performance. Therefore, product formulators must be cognizant of their target audience, as well as aware of fragrance allergens, approved fragrance materials and interactions between fragrances and other ingredients. The present article provides an overview of these factors.
Sensory
Cooking Chemistry and the Formulator—Seasonings: Taste and Smell
This article is the last in a four-part series that highlights connections between cooking chemistry and personal care product development, including reactions that occur and why, and how to best utilize these reactions, for the benefit of formulators.
Sensory
Fragrance and Raw Materials: Birds of a Feather
There is more to fragrance formulation than meets the eye—or nose that is. Both raw material and fragrance formulators spend significant time in the lab testing different materials to determine which ingredients, oils, extracts, etc. best meet their formulation and consumer’s needs. And although fragrance and personal care are two different industries, the discovery processes prove similar.
Consumers/Market
Hair Care Verging on a New World Order
Hair care saw its best performance in a decade last year, but markets shifts, increased segmentation and niche categories are making the development of growth for hair care a moving target.
Consumers/Market
Indonesia Expects Professional Hair Care Boom
Although the Indonesian hair care market is still modest in size, being less than 5% of the U.S. market, it has enjoyed a growth of almost 10% since 2007.
Consumers/Market
Top Fragrance Trends to Look for in Beauty
At its 2013 Fragrance Workshop, Bell Flavors & Fragrances discussed a range of topics affecting fragrance in the beauty industry, as well as looked fragrance in candles and olfactive descriptions.
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