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Supplier Roundtable: Proxy Formulating—Using Alternative Ingredients

In this Supplier Roundtable, suppliers were challenged with the question of how to utilize "proxy" ingredients to keep up with market trends and on top of ingredient controversy.

To demonstrate the viability of fungal pigments, Jesse Adler collaborated with a formulating chemist to create a makeup collection referred to as Alchemical Mycology.

[updated] Could Fungal Colorants Extend the Pigment Palette?

Jesse Adler is making headlines with her makeup collection Alchemical Mycology. The biomolecular scientist extracts pigments from mushrooms, lichens yeast and mold for her cosmetics; but one industry expert reminds us of the regulatory hurdles they face.

Sourcing and Using Maca and Suma Roots

In recent years, interest in sourcing plant roots as active ingredients for cosmetic use has grown tremendously. Roots such as maca and suma are rich in secondary metabolites and, as described here, can have specific actions on skin to increase its vitality and response to environmental stresses.

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Renmatix Debuts Supercritical Hydrolysis-derived Active for Clean Beauty

While the extraction process can be used with other natural materials, red maple was chosen to create a new petro-free, self-emulsifying natural active that aligns with clean beauty tenets.

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DSM Coins ‘Conscious Care’ Beauty Concept

DSM coined a new phrase combining “good” and healthy beauty: conscious care. This concept refers to consumers becoming more conscious of what they put on and into their bodies; in relation, DSM offers ingredient solutions targeting this concept.

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Naturally Reverse Graying with Agreynist by Silab

Agreynist is Silab’s most recent plant-based active ingredient that is claimed to reverse the effects of graying hair to the user’s natural hair color.

In 2022, Lignopure commissioned the first GMP-compliant plant for lignin conversion, reportedly achieving the ability to recycle 90,000 kg of lignin annually.

Beauty Alternatives: Ingredient Trends

From upcycled technologies to improved oil-in water formulations, emerging ingredients are taking beauty to the next level.

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Read the Label: Count to Zen Rejuvenating Hand & Body Crème

Count to Zen Rejuvenating Hand Cream is an Asia-inspired U.S. product, described as an intensely hydrating, quick absorbing, cream-textured hand treatment. This column will review the ingredient listing for claims substantiation and functionality.

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Chrysanthemum Blend Inhibits UVA Damage Post Exposure

Recent work published by Amway and Zen-Bio Inc. researchers shows that a chrysanthemum extract and ascorbic acid-2-glucoside blend reduces CPD production in melanocytes hours after UVA exposure.

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Irwin Naturals Launches CBD Body Care Line: HydroCanna

Irwin Naturals launched its CBD-centered body care line, HydroCanna, for the face, body and hair using full-spectrum hemp extract (FSHE) and C60 Fullerenes.

Organic Bioactives Skincare

Organic Bioactives Launches Vegan, Red Algae Ingredient Portfolio

Organic Bioactives has announced its vegan skin care ingredient portfolio, comprised of red algae extract, OceanDermMX. Each ingredient is comprised of red algae for multiple skin benefits such as anti-aging and moisturization.

Alban Muller Launches Online Plant Database

The A.M.I. Encyclopedia offers direct access to a volume of knowledge on the plant world. It brings together technical information on plants for cosmetic, phytotherapy and well-being food use.

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Cellugy x Bioli Debut Bio-based EcoFlexy Rheology Modifier in Commercial Skin Care Cream

The partnership introduces Cellugy's EcoFlexy, a sustainable alternative to petrochemicals, in premium skin care amid growing regulatory pressures.

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Fruitful Skin Benefits: Litchi Peel Extract for Natural Brightening

Litchi is a fruit native to Thailand that has been used throughout history for various health-related advantages. In this article, the natural properties and benefits of litchi peel extract are examined, with a focus on skin brightening effects.

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12 Top Trends and Buzzwords in Beauty at In-Cosmetics 2025

Here's a quick rundown of the top trends in beauty ingredients and concepts we saw at In-Cosmetics Global 2025; and this is just a sampling.

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Read the Label: Shiseido Waso Quick Gentle Cleanser

Shiseido's Waso Quick Gentle Cleanser is an alcohol-free, oil-free, honey-gel cleanser that claims to foam without water to remove makeup, dirt and excess oil. This column reviews the ingredient list for claims substantiation and functionality.

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One, Two, Three Formulations as Easy as A, B, C

AAK has developed three formulas—a body cream, face polish and hand cream—that meet COSMOS requirements to offer consumers more natural and ideal selections for eco-friendly products.

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J-beauty Inspired, Givaudan Offers #BeautyBoosters

Inspired by natural skin care routines from J-beauty, Givaudan Active Beauty has announced its own botanical beauty regime for smooth and glowing skin called #BeautyBoosters.