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Orthorhombic Phase Stabilization for Internal Occlusion: A New Mechanism for Skin Moisturization

While humectants and occlusive agents are the most commonly accepted approaches to moisturize skin, earlier work indicates a third approach: orthorhombic phase stabilization. In the present article, the author describes this novel mechanism of hydration and its detection by conventional and nonconventional methods, suggesting this approach could serve as a basis for all skin moisturizing therapies.

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Fruit Butters for Moisturization and Wrinkle Reduction

The butters not only offer a high level of moisturization, but will aid in cellular regeneration and free radical scavenging. The vitamin C content in these fruit butters will also aid in the reduction of wrinkles and fine lines

A 'Green" Microemulsion for Improved Conditioning Performance of Shampoos

In the present article, a renewable ingredient microemulsion is formulated that is free from ethoxylates and sulfate groups. Used as an additive, the material boosts the conditioning performance of shampoos and improves wet-combing performance by affecting phase separation. In addition, base formulas for standard and “green” shampoos are discussed.

Buriti for Dry, Delicate or Damaged Skin

Featuring tonic and antioxidant properties, the agent has a regenerating and repairing effect on dry, damaged and delicate skin and is also used for regular care of hair and skin.

Balancing Desquamation and Hydration

This molecular film is formulated to optimize the delivery of the proteolytic enzyme papain to address proper moisturization following exfoliation to avoid abnormal desquamation.

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Performance and Sensorial Benefits of Cationic Guar in Hair Care Applications

Cationic guars have demonstrated ability to manage the surface of the hair. This article discusses their physico-chemical properties, their hair conditioning and repairing properties, and their impact on foam sensorial aspects.

Anionic Organosilicones: Complexing Agents for Quaternary Compounds

A new formulating technique allows for the preparation of clear gels containing both anionic rheology control polymers and cationic conditioning agents, ingredients which were traditionally thought to be incompatible with one another.

Glycerin and Hydroxyethyl Urea: Comparing Two Skin Moisturizers

In a series of evaluations comparing two skin moisturizers, hydroxyethyl urea was found to deliver moisturization efficacy comparable to glycerin, while offering some advantages in terms of sensory perception in skin care products.

Multifunctionality from a New Polymeric Ester

Pigment wetting, skin moisturization and gloss are three functions that can be obtained simultaneously from octyldodecyl/PPG-3 myristyl ether dimer dilinoleate, a new polymeric ester synthesized partly from one of the skin’s essential fatty acids.

Using Polyquaternium-64 to Condition Damaged Hair

Studies reported here show that by forming a gel layer that coats the surfaces of damaged hair fibers, this new, cationic, biomimetic copolymer helps to restore the appearance of healthy hair.

Liquid Crystals in O/W Emulsions with Urea: Development and Testing

Using a ternary phase diagram, the authors developed systems based on nonionic surfactants, light paraffin oil, water, and (optionally) urea. Systems in which lamellar liquid crystals formed and in which urea was an ingredient showed higher occlusive power and lower TEWL in in vitro tests.

Humectants: More Than Meets The Eye (or Skin)

Whenever we are asked to formulate an emulsion, we think of and usually add a humectant. A humectant being defined as “a substance that promotes retention of moisture.” It is derived from Latin “hu-mecta-ns, hu-mecta-nt, present participle of hu-mecta-re, to moisten, from hu-mectus, moist, from hu-me-re, to be moist.” But these versatile materials deserve our respect. They have functions that go far beyond this simplistic definition!

Silicone Compounds–New Formulation Possibilities

Tapping into little understood products selected from a class of well known compounds can provide formulation advantages. PEG/PPG dimethicone compounds, alkyl dimethicone compounds and alkyl PEG/PPG dimethicone compounds are three classes of compounds that offer far more utility in personal care products than is generally appreciated by formulators.

Busy Signals Explain Itch from Dry Skin

This review of literature suggests that crosstalk between the stratum corneum and nerve fibers in the epidermis is the process by which itch is transmitted to the central nervous system. A rationale is presented for using moisturizers to reduce itch.

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TCM 3-herb Active for Anti-inflammation

Mibelle Biochemistry designed a protecting and soothing active ingredient to reinforce the skin’s natural defense system.

Recent Polymer Technologies for Hair Care

More than 20 polymers from seven companies are reviewed in this survey of recent polymer technologies for hair care. A variety of new functions and multifunctionalities are seen in these products launched within the past two years.

Emollients with Activity for Sun Care Applications

A process of partial hydrogenation followed by fractionation will stabilize canola oil and maximize its content of tocopherols, yielding a stable emollient oil with improved sun care and skin care benefits.

Powder to Add Shine, Combability and Hydration to Hair

The powder is formulated with a natural vegetable-based cationic guar gum that was selected for its high substantivity and low build up. A low molecular weight sodium hyaluronate was chosen for its ability to quickly penetrate to the deeper layers of the epidermis to hydrate and bind water.