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Section: Cosmetic Ingredients > Actives

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9 Top Trends + 30 Beauty Insights from in-cosmetics Global 2024

Nearly 200 new launches were on display at in-cosmetics Global, held April 16-18, 2024, in Paris. Here, we've captured some of the top trends we spotted — but this is merely a sampling.

Raspberry Stem Cell Extract to Protect Skin from Inflammation and Oxidative Stress

In the present article, the authors evaluate a wild red raspberry (Rubus idaeus) extract for its beneficial compounds and potential applications in skin care. From leaf explants, raspberry stem cells were obtained to develop an extract rich in antioxidants, anthocyanins and phenolics. This extract exhibited anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities.

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Bioyouth™-EGT& Bioyouth™-EGT Pro -- The magic power from mushrooms [sample request]

Obtained from multi- fermentation of Tricholoma matsutake and Hericium erinaceum, BioyouthTM-EGT contains high concentration of L-ergothioneine. It has excellent anti-oxidation and anti-photoaging effect to help people fight aging.

A Melanin Derivative to Shield the Skin from High Energy Visible Light

High energy visible (HEV) light recently has been suspected of causing as much damage as UVA and UVB combined. Thus, the present paper describes a fractionated melanin tailored to absorb light in the visibile 400–500 nm range. In addition, because the material exhibits color, the authors focus on formulation techniques to incorporate it into semi-solid formulations.

A Melanin Derivative to Shield the Skin from High Energy Visible Light

High energy visible (HEV) light recently has been suspected of causing as much damage as UVA and UVB combined. Thus, the present paper describes a fractionated melanin tailored to absorb light in the visibile 400–500 nm range. In addition, because the material exhibits color, the authors focus on formulation techniques to incorporate it into semi-solid formulations.

Quercetin and Berry Polyphenols from Solabia for Antioxidant and Anti-acne Benefits

Solabia utilized polyphenols to create the two actives that it will launch at in-cosmetics 2013, a quercetin derivative to protect skin from oxidative stress and a berry juice to inhibit sebum oxidation.

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Patent Picks—Microbe Separation, Emulsion Arrays and Salicylic Acid Delivery From Powder

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features processes for identifying microorganisms, forming emulsion arrays and delivering salicylic acid from powder.

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[video] That's a Wrap: Top News the Week of 6/2/17 from Cosmetics & Toiletries

Did you hear? Immune cells are connected to hair loss (and growth). And skin-whitening prospects have a new "tell." If you missed this week's news, you missed out! Check our our video-recap.

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Hair Health Starts With the Scalp: Insights from Two P&G Head & Shoulders Experts

Hair care scientists scratched their heads for some time before they could put their finger on the primary causes of dandruff. Now, with the flakes brushed away, they are seeing the scalp in a new light. Two Procter & Gamble scientists, James Schwartz, Ph.D., and Rolanda Wilkerson, Ph.D., both with the Head & Shoulders brand, explain how in this exclusive interview.

Protecting Skin from UV Oxidative Stress with a New (Cys-Gly)2 Dimer Peptide

In the presented studies, researchers investigated the effect of the (Cys-Gly)2 dimer peptide against UV-induced oxidative stress on cultured human fibroblasts. The dimer peptide was found to act on a range of mechanisms involved in cell defense against such stress.

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Protect the skin from emotional stress damages with SEPIBLISS™ FEEL

To ensure the protection of skin from emotional stress damage, which is directly linked to well-being, Seppic has developed an innovative wellness approach that demonstrates feel-good soothing properties through SEPIBLISS™ FEEL.

Retinol skin care products are growing in popularity by consumers, especially within the U.S. market.

Retinol Skin Care is Thriving: New Launches from Goop Beauty, Philosophy and Glow Recipe

According to a market analysis report conducted in 2023 from Grand View Research, the global retinol market for beauty products is expected to reach $1.79 billion by 2030, growing at an annual rate of 3.8%.

A New Active from Germinated Seeds Boosts HSP Expression in Skin's Natural Defenses

A new active ingredient obtained from germinated seeds improves the natural skin defense by boosting HSP expression in the keratinocytes in response to stress exposure.

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In vivo Delivery Confirmation: Measuring the Deposition of Salicylic Acid from Anti-acne Face Wash

Measuring the delivery of active ingredients is an important part of the product development process, and particularly desirable are non-invasive, in vivo methods. This work describes the use of fluorescence excitation emission matrices in vivo to measure the deposition of salicylic acid from anti-acne face wash products.

Citron Barrier Ceramide from Daebong LS Co., Ltd., is described as an upcycled phyto-pseudo-ceramide that reduces TEWL, locking moisture into skin.

10 Picks from In-cos Korea 2024: Citron Ceramide, Bicelle Beads, Plankton Holobiont Actives and More

Innovations from Korea and beyond were front and center during in-cosmetics Korea, held July 24-26, 2024, in Seoul. Following we showcase 10 picks from the show's Innovation Zone.

How the ‘Stuff’ in Formulations Impacts the Delivery of Actives

Formulations contain many ingredients that are vital for some important function, such as providing stability. However, what does this “stuff” do in terms of helping or (usually) hindering the delivery of the all-important active? And how much of the active is actually available to deliver? A few simple questions and measurements, described here, can provide a wealth of insight.

From Elastin to Elastic Fibers, Part II: The Clinical Effects of a Natural Dipeptide on the Biological Cascade

The peptide N-Acetyl-Tyr-Arg-Hexadecylester (NATAH), found in Part I to stimulate the production of elastic fibers in vitro, was next tested in vivo for its capacity to improve skin elasticity parameters, using various biophysical and imaging techniques. Significant differences in facial ptosis and extensibility were observed in the 56-day, vehicle-controlled clinical study described here.

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant's new jelly-bush-honey-based Melicica ingredient (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Honey Extract) reportedly modulates the expression of genes that play a criticalo role in the skin’s natural repair process.

Melicica Harnesses the Power of Jelly Bush Honey: A New Regenerative Skin Repair Technology from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant

The ingredient comprises an extract of Jelly Bush honey, also known as Australian Manuka honey, which is rich in potent bioactive compounds like leptosperin.

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