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Section: Cosmetic Ingredients > Actives
Method/Process
The Effect of Skin Metabolism on the Absorption of Chemicals
Skin expresses enzymes that can metabolize endogenous molecules but little is known regarding how they impact the delivery of xenobiotics. This review of recent works shows that skin metabolism alters the dermal absorption of lipophilic compounds, which opens new areas of investigation regarding the safety and efficacy of topically applied cosmetics.
Literature/Data
Sourcing and Using Maca and Suma Roots
In recent years, interest in sourcing plant roots as active ingredients for cosmetic use has grown tremendously. Roots such as maca and suma are rich in secondary metabolites and, as described here, can have specific actions on skin to increase its vitality and response to environmental stresses.
Actives
Frequency of Use of Organic UV Filters as Reported to the FDA
The author reports on frequency of use of 17 organic UV filters in nearly 18,000 formulations voluntarily reported to the United States government as of May 2003.
Literature/Data
The Effect of Glycerol on the Water-holding Capacity of Chemically Irritated Skin*
Glycerol is one humectant commonly employed due to its high hygroscopic and hyperosmotic properties. It is used in cosmetics as a moisturizer and in pharmaceutical formulations as an active compound.2 Being naturally present in the skin, glycerol was quickly identified for its role in skin hydration, similar to natural moisturizing factors (NMF).
Actives
Stabler, Milder Retinol and Vitamin C and More
Ultra Chemical will showcase actives with improved stability and mildness as well as a petrolatum replacement, surfactants and emulsifiers with skin benefits, polymers for eye makeup and gloss, and UV protectants.
Skin Care
Active Solution Exfoliates and Restores Skin and Scalp
Proper exfoliation helps maintain healthy skin by removing the barrier of dead, clogging skin cells, uncovering fresh new cells below and reducing clogged pores and breakouts.
Anti-aging/Face
Unlocking the Power of Plant Exosomes (PDEVs) – The New Natural Way of Delivering Cosmetic Efficacy
Plant exosomes could be valuable tools for combating photodamage and premature skin ageing. They are one of the latest innovations in cosmetics, and are one emerging technology that market analysis companies tell us to watch. Read more here.
Literature/Data
Culture Shift: Rethinking the Role of Commensal Microflora of the Skin in Cosmetic Formulation
Much like bacteria in the gut, the skin’s microbiome plays an important role in skin health by excluding harmful transients and educating the immune system. The application of pre- and probiotic concepts in cosmetics presents a novel approach. While formulation with probiotics may pose challenges, the use of prebiotics and bacterial lysates, discussed here, may be a viable alternative.
Efficacy
Dual Defense: Protecting and Repairing Hair Holistically, Inside and Out
Cumulative stress encountered by hair during daily grooming causes breakage and other forms of damage. This paper presents a holistic approach to protect hair from within and without by targeting the cortex and cuticle sheath. Fatigue testing and other assessments are carried out to determine efficacy.
Event Coverage
[video] Hair Dye, Color Correctors and Tariffs: News and Insights
Missed anything from the past week in cosmetic R&D? Catch up on tariff repercussions, alternative ingredients and insights from the 2018 IFSCC Congress through the link.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Shikakai, Desert Date and Gypsophila for Foam Boosting and Cleansing
Crodarom has launched a natural foam booster blend based on shikakai,
Balanites aegyptiaca
(desert date) and gypsophila (baby's breath).
Literature/Data
Culture Shift: Rethinking the Role of Commensal Microflora of the Skin in Cosmetic Formulation
Much like bacteria in the gut, the skin’s microbiome plays an important role in skin health by excluding harmful transients and educating the immune system. The application of pre- and probiotic concepts in cosmetics presents a novel approach. While formulation with probiotics may pose challenges, the use of prebiotics and bacterial lysates, discussed here, may be a viable alternative.
Event Coverage
[video] Preservatives, Millennials and J-beauty: News and Insights
Summer may be ending soon, but news moves fast in cosmetics R&D—catch up on our latest takes on leveraging preservatives, herbal beauty, lipstick stats and more in this week's video.
Skin Care
Bruise Amelioration and Skin Benefits from Glycerin and Triglyceride
Ameliorating the appearance of bruises can be accomplished by combining glycerin and triglyceride in a skin care formulation that functions both as a humectant and occlusive agent, as described here.
Preservation
Emerald Highlights Kalama and Purox Preservatives, Antimicrobials and More
Emerald Kalama Chemical has highlighted its Kalama and Purox ingredient lines, which are based on sodium benzoate, benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid and phenylpropanol, for preservative and antimicrobial functions.
Hair Care
Gluadin® WLM Benz Wheat Microprotein Soothes and Calms Scalp and Skin
Gluadin® WLM Benz is a highly micronized wheat-based protein active that shows substantial depth penetration into the hair shaft, forming an excellent basis for effective repair, restructuring, and protection.
Companies
Nature
and Estée Lauder to Honor Up-and-coming Female Researchers
In a new partnership, Nature Research, publisher of the industry-renowned journal
Nature
, and multinational cosmetics giant The Estée Lauder Companies will present early-career female scientists with awards for innovating and inspiring science.
Actives
Croda, Crodarom, Sederma and Alban Muller Showcase Latest Actives and Formulations
The companies showcased actives to cover an array of personal care concerns, as well as presented numerous formulations incorporating these ingredients.
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