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Section: Cosmetic Ingredients > Actives
Actives
Part II: The Clinical Effects of a Natural Dipeptide on the Biological Cascade
The peptide N-Acetyl-Tyr-Arg-Hexadecylester (NATAH), found in Part I to stimulate the production of elastic fibers in vitro, was next tested in vivo for its capacity to improve skin elasticity parameters, using various biophysical and imaging techniques. Significant differences in facial ptosis and extensibility were observed in the 56-day, vehicle-controlled clinical study described here.
Literature/Data
The Effect of Glycerol on the Water-holding Capacity of Chemically Irritated Skin*
Glycerol is one humectant commonly employed due to its high hygroscopic and hyperosmotic properties. It is used in cosmetics as a moisturizer and in pharmaceutical formulations as an active compound.2 Being naturally present in the skin, glycerol was quickly identified for its role in skin hydration, similar to natural moisturizing factors (NMF).
Actives
Meeting the UVA Challenge: Inorganic-only Sun Protection
The production of a range of titanium dioxide-based dispersions is explored to provide enhanced UVA protection, in comparison with ultrafine titanium dioxide. Formulations containing these dispersions as the only active are shown to achieve a UVA protection factor that is 1/3 of the labeled SPF value, thus meeting European Commission recommendations.
Actives
Meeting the UVA Challenge: Inorganic-only Sun Protection
The production of a range of titanium dioxide-based dispersions is explored to provide enhanced UVA protection, in comparison with ultrafine titanium dioxide. Formulations containing these dispersions as the only active are shown to achieve a UVA protection factor that is 1/3 of the labeled SPF value, thus meeting European Commission recommendations.
Methods/Tools
Visualizing the Impact of Emulsifiers on Emulsion Perception
This paper describes an approach to systematically investigate the intrinsic effects of emulsifiers, quantify them and translate them into consumer preferences. These are processed mathematically and displayed in a simplified, two-dimensional map to assist formulation work.
Anti-aging/Face
Part I: The In vitro Effects of a Natural Dipeptide on the Biological Cascade
The peptide N-Acetyl-Tyr-Arg-Hexadecylester (NATAH) was found to stimulate the synthesis of tropoelastin in cultured human dermal fibroblasts as well as augment the activity of all important actors in the assembly of elastic fibers, including Fibrillin 1, Fibulin 5, Decorin, LOX and Transglutaminase, among others. This is shown here both in monolayer cell cultures and in a 3D skin model.
Regional
VIDEO: 2 Questions on the FDA's Triclosan Ruling
The FDA's ruling on triclosan raises two questions, which David C. Steinberg describe in this fourth video in our series. However, he concedes that fighting the ruling is like "doubling down on an already-lost bet."
Methods/Tools
Visualizing the Impact of Emulsifiers on Emulsion Perception
This paper describes an approach to systematically investigate the intrinsic effects of emulsifiers, quantify them and translate them into consumer preferences. These are processed mathematically and displayed in a simplified, two-dimensional map to assist formulation work.
Anti-aging/Face
Beiersdorf Pairs Glycation Inhibitor with CoQ10 in its Latest Nivea Q10 Launch
Beiersdorf is "doubling down" against aging with its latest Nivea offering, the Q10 Dual Action Serum. The product combines a patented glycation-inhibiting technology, N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline, with the benefits of coenzyme Q10 to reduce wrinkles.
Skin Care
Indena Hops on the Anti-pollution Trend Train
Indena is going beyond giving dirt the brush-off with Vitachelox. This ingredient is an optimized blend of botanical compounds that's designed help protect skin from pollution damage.
Actives
Don’t Count On Genetics, Sunscreens are the Best Bet
In a podcast with P&G scientists Frauke Neuser, Ph.D. and Rosemarie Osborne, Ph.D.,
Cosmetics & Toiletries
learned about genetic studies in support of the Olay brand, and more. Following is an excerpt.
Literature/Data
ZnO Nanoparticles Penetrate but Only Under These Conditions
Zinc oxide (ZnO) nanoparticles are a major component in sunscreens but their ability to permeate skin has remained undetermined. Recent work in
Applied Biomaterials
identifies the conditions under which they penetrate—notably, not in their nano form as they exist in sunscreens.
Efficacy
A Sunny Proposition: The Effects of Sun on Hair
While not nearly as well-documented as skin, plenty of literature indicates the sun can have damaging effects on hair.
Actives
Know Your Naturals: Clove and Lavender Antibacterials on the Rise
As a supplier of natural ingredients, Kerfoot Group has experienced a not-unexpected rise in demand for its naturals with antibacterial properties. Clove and lavender are notable leaders; read on for others.
Skin Care
One Ingredient, Twice the Benefits for Pores and Age Spots
DSM has created a solution to benefit two skin problems at once. The company’s latest skin care ingredient helps eliminate facial pores and age spots simultaneously. Additionally, helps the skin look younger and improves appearance after the age of 30.
Actives
Vytrus' Baolift 'Fit Skin' Tech Mimics the Effects of Workouts on the Face, Eye Contour and Body
Baolift is derived from the stem cells of baobab (Adansonia digitata), a superfood found in many fitness-oriented supplements, foods and beverages.
Actives
The Influence of Oligosaccharides on Skin Aging: An Alternative to Retinoids
Retinol and its derivatives are recognized antiaging molecules but they sometimes have irritating side effects. The authors investigate oligosaccharides obtained after enzymatic hydrolysis of edicago sativa as a non-irritating alternative to retinol.
Actives
From Elastin to Elastic Fibers, Part II: The Clinical Effects of a Natural Dipeptide on the Biological Cascade
The peptide N-Acetyl-Tyr-Arg-Hexadecylester (NATAH), found in Part I to stimulate the production of elastic fibers in vitro, was next tested in vivo for its capacity to improve skin elasticity parameters, using various biophysical and imaging techniques. Significant differences in facial ptosis and extensibility were observed in the 56-day, vehicle-controlled clinical study described here.
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