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Skin Care
Southern Magnolia to Desensitize Sensitive Skin
Lipophilic active based on southern magnolia designed to reduce neurogenic inflammation and skin redness after mechanical stress; one study demonstrated PhytoDefense CLR™ reduced redness due to mechanical stress by 27%.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Pawpaw Anti-irritant, Degradation Sensor, Fenugreek Saponins and More
Chosen biweekly for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features patents related to preservation; ranging from the preservation of product stability, to antimicrobial technologies and a natural preparation to address preservative-induced irritation.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Polyester UV Filter, Diol Filters and Sensory in Sun; Milk Thistle, Buddha Fruit, Artichoke, Olive, Algae, Narcissus Skin Repair
Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features inventions related to sun protection and skin repair, including isononyl benzoate for sensory properties; alpha,beta-dihydroxyketone UV filters; assessing extrinsic skin age; an artichoke/olive antiaging duo; milk thistle and Buddha fruit cleanse/repair combo; algae and Narcissus to stimulate collagen; UV-absorbing polyester and more.
Skin Care
Southern Magnolia to Desensitize Sensitive Skin
Lipophilic active based on southern magnolia designed to reduce neurogenic inflammation and skin redness after mechanical stress; one study demonstrated PhytoDefense CLR™ reduced redness due to mechanical stress by 27%.
Actives
Old Meets New: Facial Mapping and TCM to Reach Booming Markets
Several ingredient examples from Traditional Chinese Medicine folklore are now validated by modern science. This article explores their potential for the aspirational Chinese market and considers how techniques such as facial-mapping demonstrate their efficacy.
Skin Care
Trending Ingredient: Mushroom and Fungi Finds
With reportedly antioxidative, hydrating and other holistic benefits, it's no wonder so many products put mushrooms in the starring role. Read on for an exclusive interview on formulating with this multifunctional ingredient, along with market context.
Literature/Data
Anti-cellulite Literature: Microneedles, PGI2 Agonists and Prickly Ash
MarketWatch
projects the global cellulite treatment market will see a CAGR of 5.5% from 2020 to 2025. In relation, we offer the following brief review of recent anti-cellulite R&D in the literature.
Formulating Basics
Formulating on Trend: Healing Acne Care
In this installment of "Formulating on Trend," the author describes the development of over-the-counter (OTC) anti-acne treatments. Specifically discussed are the types of acne, emollients and occlusives to optimize anti-acne efficacy.
Color Cosmetics
Formulating On Trend: Lip Oil
In this “Formulating on Trend,” the author describes basic ingredients used to create lip oils, including the function of each and formulation suggestions. Thickeners, oils, antioxidants, colorants/pigments, flavor and plumping ingredients are considered.
Event Coverage
6 Halal Ingredient Highlights at In-cosmetics Asia 2025 — Plus How Halal and Ethical Excellence are Taking Center Stage
In-cosmetics Asia 2025 will showcase halal-certified and other ethical beauty innovations among the industry's surging demand for clean, conscious and inclusive beauty solutions. Following are six ingredient highlights; plus market insights.
Actives
Brassica
Breakthrough: Herbal Anti-acne Alternative Proves Clinically Effective
While there are numerous topical and systemic treatments for acne, antibiotic resistance and toxic interactions are a challenge. This article explores the clinical efficacy of a
Brassica oleracea
blend as an alternative topical acne treatment.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Testing Tactics in Skin: A View of Visible Light Protection
Blue light, in particular, may be responsible for most of the adverse skin reactions caused by visible wavelengths. This column reviews methods to screen for materials that protect against blue light but also allow its benefits to shine through.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Bakuchiol to Stabilize Retinol and Polyunsaturated Lipids
Bakuchiol, a meroterpene of plant origin, is examined here for its ability to stabilize retinol and polyunsaturated lipids. It was found to be approximately 60-fold more effective than natural tocopherol, under both photo-oxidative and singlet oxygen environments. An overview of retinol stabilization, lipid peroxidation and the unique role lipid peroxides play in biology also is included.
Actives
Lightening and Illuminating Skin With Acetylated Hydroxystilbenes From
Rheum rhaponticum
Skin discoloration and excessive pigmentation due to increased melanin production is associated with skin inflammation and aging. Therefore, an extract rich in acetylated hydroxystilbenes from Rheum rhaponticum was combined with panthenyl triacetate to test in the melanogenesis pathway. The complex strongly reduced melanogenesis and melanin accumulation in human skin explants, decreased melanin content in pigmented spots, increased skin brightness and enhanced skin radiance on the face of human volunteers in a double-blind clinical study.
Actives
Anti-aging Skin Care Benefits of
Saccharina longicruris
Extract
Aging triggers the modification of gene expression levels, negatively affecting skin’s ultrastructural integrity and resulting in dry, saggy skin and the appearance of wrinkles. However, an extract of
Saccharina longicruris
has been found to restore the expression levels of specific genes in senescent fibroblasts, in turn improving barrier function and hydration, increasing elasticity and reducing wrinkles, which are described in this article.
Hair Care
How a Kudzu Isoflavone Tonic Mitigates Female Hair Loss
Kudzu isoflavones were explored in vitro for the potential to signal the hair growth cycle in dermal papilla. Promising results led to the development of an anti-hair loss tonic using kudzu root extract, which was tested in vivo in 40 Chinese women.
Actives
The Longevity and Slow-Aging Movement Gets an Ingredient Refresh
Anti-aging ingredients get a longevity and slow-aging makeover as consumers focus on holistic, long-term solutions for skin.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Plant DNA, Aloesin, Pomegranate and More to Balance Skin
Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features technologies to balance skin condition, including tone, texture, oily and dry zones, and blemishes such as acne, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and scars.
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