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Type: Article

Section: Regulations

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SPF Testing: Who's Got Their 'Backs?'

"Isn’t it time for governments and industry to standardize an in vitro SPF test to replace human testing?" Karl Laden, Ph.D., of Alpa Cosmetics, asks in this brief commentary. What do you think?

How Cosmetics are Regulated in Europe

European Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 is the main regulatory framework for finished products when placed on the EU market. Safety for human health is paramount. The Cosmetics Regulation comprises key elements to consider and comply with when marketing cosmetic products in Europe.

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Phthalates Study Raises More Concerns, ‘But Who Cares?’

It’s been a while since a cosmetic ingredient was slandered. To ensure we’re not letting you down, here’s a report on new study examining the negative impact of phthalates.

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Heat Protection Getting Warmer: Specialty Silicones for Hair

The present study examines the ability of silicones to protect hair during heat styling, compared with other industry benchmarks and untreated hair. Also discussed are the mechanisms through which different silicones contribute heat protection in hair care products such as leave-in conditioners, serums and other product forms.

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What is Light? A Brief History of Light and Its Behavior

This primer provides cosmetic scientists, engineers and physicists with an understanding of light. The quantum mechanics of history continue today as a guiding paradigm for computers, satellites and mobile communications, in addition to the cosmetically related fields of photoprotection and visual effects imparted through makeup to change appearance.

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Making Hair (Claims) Do What You Want

Following in the footsteps of skin care claims, hair care claims are growing bolder as manufacturers try to get an edge on their competition. But no matter how bold the claim, the need for scientific data to substantiate it remains.

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Combing Through Sun and Pollutant Effects on Hair

Trefor A Evans, Ph.D., institute fellow at TRI Princeton and long-time C&T scientific advisor, offers his insights on the latest developments in hair science and what they mean to the cosmetic formulator.

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Claims: The Lifeline to Product Success in the Marketplace

Les Smith, C&T scientific advisor, offers his insights on recent trends in claims substantiation and its direct impact on the role of the cosmetic formulator.

Make Your Claims Bulletproof: Let Science Serve as Your Vest

Manufacturers are easy and frequent targets of litigation for claims they make on their products. You can avoid unwanted attention from regulatory organizations by ensuring your claims are substantiated by science.

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Total Wellness Through Tradition: Ayurveda in Cosmetics, Part II

The herbal beauty care business has given rise to an opportunity for ayurvedic cosmetics. To remain genuine to their ancient tradition, such cosmetics should adhere to their founding principles while leveraging the synergies between ayurveda theory and cosmetics. Part one revealed these connections and related formulating theories. This second part discusses ayurvedic ingredients and applications.

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Pick and Choose—Balancing Sunscreen Benefits: Sun Protection or Vitamin D?

It’s well-known that over-exposure to UV light is harmful to the body, yet it is vital for production of essential vitamin D. Understanding the balance between the benefits of sun protection and vitamin D synthesis is not yet well understood.

Nanotechnology: A Big Deal in a Small Package

Nanotechnology and nanomaterials open up an abundance of options for cosmetic formulators to develop innovative new products. Likewise, they open up an abundance of regulatory concerns. Here’s a look at the regulatory implications of nanomaterials in skin care applications.

The Issues Common With Trending Natural Ingredients: The Pitfalls of Naturals

The ever-evolving nature of skin care presents ongoing challenges for marketing claims and labeling. Here are a few things to watch out for.

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Gauging Cosmetic Safety in a Post-Animal Testing World

The testing of cosmetic and personal care products on animals has become widely perceived as a vile, often cruel and inhumane practice. Many countries have either banned its use or have pending legislation to do so. The dilemma this leaves is creating reliable methods to test products for safety and quality.

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Frequency of Preservative Use Update Through 2014

It has been four years since this author last reviewed the preservatives being used in U.S. and Canadian cosmetics. Since then, continuing attacks on preservatives, MIT, triclosan and others have kept formulators scrambling. This report discusses some of these attacks and compares numbers, to see what impact these attacks have had.

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Sunscreens and UV Exposure: A Q&A with Vincent Hubiche

Gattefossé SAS' Vincent Hubiche shared insight on how consumers need to be better informed with the amount of sunscreen they wear and the climate’s influence on sunscreen application.

Photostability Test for Additional Sunscreen Claims, Part III: New Claim

Proposed here is an in vitro method, based on UV transmission measurements at two irradiation doses, to test and rank sunscreens based on their photostabilities. This approach was used to assess some 107 sunscreens and shows how, by strictly controlling key parameters, comparisons between the photostabilities of products can be made, with potential for new label claims.

Photostability Test for Additional Sunscreen Claims, Part II: Calculations and Results

Proposed here is an in vitro method, based on UV transmission measurements at two irradiation doses, to test and rank sunscreens based on their photostabilities. This approach was used to assess some 107 sunscreens and shows how, by strictly controlling key parameters, comparisons between the photostabilities of products can be made, with potential for new label claims.

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