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Section: Formulas/Products
Skin Care
Cosmetics & Toiletries
Formulary: Face Care
Technavio
reports the face care market will register a modest CAGR of 4% between 2016 and 2020. However, multifunctional solutions, especially in color cosmetic formats, will raise the stakes in the game. As such, here we present our latest face care formulas for your consideration and adaption; perhaps to up the ante.
Event Coverage
Water Content, Nanoparticles and Skin Penetration in Brazil: Lindo Maravilhoso!
Water content, surfactants, thickeners, actives, nanoparticles and skin penetration were among the hot topics presented at the biennial XXI COLAMIQC congress of the Latin American and Iberian cosmetic chemists. Held May 14-16, 2013, in São Paulo, technical sessions were paired alongside the FCE Cosmetique exhibition and trade show for both the cosmetics and pharmaceuticals industries.
Literature/Data
Survey of Skin Research Findings
Cosmetic science has outdone itself this year, with breakthroughs not just emerging, but rolling out in actual applications. Following is a brief literature review of recent skin care findings.
Hair Care
Silicone Stand-in: Lauryl/Myristyl Polyricinoleate Naturally Improves Perceived Hair Hydration
This article is focused on a nonionic, nature-friendly hair care ingredient: lauryl/myristyl polyricinoleate. Designed to impart a sense of hydration to hair, the material is shown to ease combing and provide a smooth after-feel in a manner surpassing benchmarks.
Natural/Sustainable
Inside Ingredients: Diatomaceous Earth
Different grades of diatomaceous earth, also known as silicon dioxide, are used for different purposes. Some go into pool filters. Others are used in personal care as abrasives, absorbents, anti-caking and bulking agents, non-surfactant dispersants and opacifying agents. They also can be applied topically as a facial mask or scrub.
Skin Care
Enzymology: Accelerating Success in the Skin Care Market
While the benefits of enzymes have long been known, interest in enzymology for cosmetic and dermatological applications has grown. Advances in the functionality, safety and stability of enzymes are accelerating skin care product development; some are described here.
Consumers/Market
Care for Compromised Skin: Anti-climate Change, Barrier Health, Microbiome, Pollution Protection and Clinical Efficacy
What does the industry see as drivers in the current and future “compromised skin care” segment? We asked several experts to weigh in. Following are their responses.
Literature/Data
Phenoxyethanol as a Safe and Important Preservative in Personal Care
The effective preservation of personal care products and cosmetics is vitally important to inhibit microbial growth. Phenoxyethanol has a long history as an effective preservative, with well-documented human and environmental safety profiles. This is a valuable option in formulators’ and microbiologists’ toolboxes for safe and effective control of microbial growth, as is reviewed here.
Actives
Slowing Intrinsic and Extrinsic Aging: A Dual Approach
In this dual approach to antiaging, intrinsic factors are first addressed by slowing cell proliferation in skin via a technology based on dormins—in this case, extracts from dormant Narcissus tazetta bulb. Then, to protect against extrinsic aging, colorless carotenoids are employed to absorb UV radiation and prevent oxidative stress damage.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Ellagic Acid, Marine Botanicals, Stem Cells, Cyclodextrin Acetals and More for Anti-aging
Chosen biweekly for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features technologies related to minimizing the signs of anti-aging and/or testing the effects of anti-aging actives.
Literature/Data
Anti-pollution Cosmetics: In the Face of a Changing Environment
Pollution in different forms and media can cause skin distress of various types. In response, leading global cosmetic companies are turning to a full spectrum of anti-pollution ingredients for answers. Both the negative effects of pollution on skin, and ingredients and products to protect against this damage are reviewed here.
Efficacy
The New Stir in Anti-aging: Small-chain Algal Peptides to Regulate Sulfur
Sulfur regulators such as small chain peptides (SCPs) and sulfide donors are an untapped sector for cosmetic science. The present work explores a natural compound to up-regulate cellular sulfur, affect the cell cycle and reduce signs of aging.
Event Coverage
Stem Cells, Wellness and Claims Substantiation Take Center Stage at IFSCC Congress
The 2012 IFSCC Congress opened with a frenzy; the "African Frenzy" dancers, that is, and enlightened attendees over three days with 65+ presentations and more than 150 posters.
Natural/Sustainable
Nature-inspired Innovation
The intersection of R&D and consumer needs.
Skin Care
Cooking Chemistry and the Formulator: Sugar and Grains
This article is the third in a four-part series that highlights connections between cooking chemistry and personal care product development, including reactions that occur and why, and how to best utilize these reactions, for the benefit of formulators.
Bath/Shower
Formulating Aftershave
Besides soothing and calming irritated skin, aftershaves are expected to refresh the skin, provide emolliency, reduce blood flow, tone skin, impart scent and antibacterial benefits, and prevent folliculitis, among others. Relevant ingredients for these functions are discussed here in terms of three categories of aftershaves: fluid transparent solutions, thick gels and fluid emulsion lotions.
Anti-aging/Face
Microalgal Bio-retinoid: A Retinol Alternative to Gently Rewind Signs of Photoaging
This article compares the efficacy of a bio-retinoid from microalga with that of retinol and bakuchiol to reverse signs of photoaging in vitro. Its efficacy, safety and skin-soothing effects vs. retinol and bakuchiol are also explored in clinical trials.
Consumers/Market
Secrets to Shaping Beauty into Body Care: How Claims, Ingredients and Challenges Translate
What's driving the body care boom? How do beauty trends translate? Here, we explore new launches and insights from Anushka Nadkarni, Bentley Labs; Ron Robinson, BeautyStat; Rita Silva, DECIEM; and Jean-Christophe Choulot, Caudalíe, to find out.
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