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Section: Cosmetic Ingredients
Actives
The Bright Side—Formulating Lighteners to Protect and Maintain Skin Health
Choosing from complementary ingredients to impact several biochemical pathways in the skin-lightening process can potentiate lightening effects. This article reviews both pathways and ingredients to not only lighten skin, but to do so safely.
Event Coverage
Which Prestige Beauty Formulas Will Come Out on Top at the 2024
C&T Allēs
?
Which prestige beauty formulas will win
C&T Allēs
? Find out at our exclusive red carpet-style awards dinner on March 6, 2024, at the Biltmore in L.A. – alongside our riveting
Beauty Accelerate
event. Following are the contenders...
Rheology/Thickener
Successfully Formulating at the Skin’s Natural Surface pH
Formulating high-performance skin care systems at low pH levels (4.0 to 5.5) can be beneficial for consumers and formulators in many ways, according to Florence Pecquerie, applications scientist and formulator for Lubrizol. Here, she reviews the current knowledge on skin surface pH, discusses the importance of pH on the efficacy of organic acid preservatives in formulation and introduces a new crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer.
Moisturizing
Read the Label: The Inkey List Zinc Moisturizer with SPF 50
"In The Inkey List’s case, the zinc oxide used is non-nano as it is not specified as ‘nano’ on the ingredients list. I therefore wanted to test this and see how the product performed."
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Water Resistance, Vitamin D, Lactone for Stabilization and More
Chosen biweekly for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features patents related to sun care and photoprotective technologies.
Skin Care
Inside Ingredients: Pot Marigold
Bright and cheerful, marigolds were considered a symbol of happiness to the ancient Romans—which is, no doubt, a boost we could all use right about now. Read on to learn more about the properties of this ingredient.
Skin Care
Inside Ingredients: Artichoke
Aside from its name, artichoke has a lot going for it. Also known as
Cynara scolymus
L., this ancient Mediterranean plant was used in folk medicine, with primary health benefits due to its rich polyphenol content. Learn more.
Event Coverage
Top 14 Macro Trends for Beauty Innovation in 2025 and Beyond
The fourth quarter of 2024 was jam-packed with events — and ideas to spark beauty innovation. Here, we've grouped them into 14 macro trends we see for beauty innovation in 2025 and beyond. Brief notes, buzzwords and "honorable mentions" also are included.
Efficacy
The Dirty Truth About Pollution-induced Skin Aging: The AhR Pathway Tells All
Studies have shown that exposure to airborne, traffic-related particulate matter (PM) is associated with increased signs of extrinsic skin aging.1-3 Using model particles as surrogates, these researchers developed an in vitro model to evaluate premature aging induced via the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) pathway. They found a new AhR antagonist could inhibit the up-regulation of genes indicative for premature aging.
Natural/Sustainable
Supplier Forum: Making Naturals Functional
Naturals—consumers have rallied for them, but are they always as effective as their synthetic counterparts? In this month's Supplier Forum, experts weighed in on methods to make natural ingredients functional.
Actives
Stimulating Epidermal Regeneration with Plant-derived Stem Cells
Here, the authors describe mechanisms of stem cells and their potential for antiaging benefits. Cultures established from apple and grape varieties using a specialized culture technology revealed that aside from stimulating colony forming efficiency (CFE) and organogenic potential, the extracts improved the maintenance of epidermal stem cells. In addition, the grape extract provided UV protection.
Skin Care
Enzymology: Accelerating Success in the Skin Care Market
While the benefits of enzymes have long been known, interest in enzymology for cosmetic and dermatological applications has grown. Advances in the functionality, safety and stability of enzymes are accelerating skin care product development; some are described here.
Literature/Data
Kenvue Drives Home the Clinical Efficacy Message, Uncovers Microbiome, Lipids, TXA, Acne and Other Findings
Kenvue highlighted 22 clinical findings from studies presented at this year's AAD. Topics included oats and the microbiome, NMF + lipids for a skin barrier boost, ZnO skin protection, acne care hydrocolloid patches, TXA + niacinamide, anti-aging and more.
Event Coverage
Cortisol, Blood Flow vs. Elasticity, and Neurocosmetics at IFSCC19
From the opening talk on botulinum toxin, and discussions of TRPV receptor reactivity, and stress and cortisol release, to the effects of blood flow on skin elasticity, IFSCC presenters tread into the grey areas of cosmeceuticals/quasi-drugs.
Companies
Sustainable Amazonian Cosmetic and Fragrance Materials
Leveraging biodiversity, sustainable sourcing and modern processing technology to create new fragrance and and cosmetic actives.
Actives
Anti-aging, Pigmentation and Acne: The Depths of Chemical Peels
Today's anti-aging consumers diverge between relaxed well-aging and immediate effects—even turning to invasive treatments. In the latter context, this article discusses facial peels, to provide formulators a professional spa product perspective.
Actives
An Herbal Blend for Antiaging Effects: TCM in Personal Care
A combination of Chinese herbs is shown here, by gene array analysis, to stimulate the skin’s resistance against free radicals, oxidative stress and toxic molecules, while also reducing extracellular matrix degradation. The extract also is shown to help against skin irritation in vivo.
Skin Care
Anti-pollution Skin Care: It's Real
'No kidding it's real,' you're probably thinking. Like naturals, though, at first it felt more like a passing fad. Now we know better, thanks to new research, some of which was presented in London earlier this year.
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