According to Chanel inventors, the epidermis largely functions to protect skin and maintain its proper functioning. Aging and photo-aging, and the related alterations associated with them, are manifested in different ways including but not limited to:
- Loss of firmness and elasticity due to tissue loss in the epidermis and/or dermis;
- Loss of brightness due to a reduction in microcirculation and the slowing of cellular renewal in the epidermis;
- The appearance of pigmented spots; and
- Cutaneous dryness due to decreased barrier function and the slowing of epidermal renewal.
The company therefore sought to develop a multifunctional active capable of acting on various causes of skin damage due to aging and/or changes in the physiological mechanisms associated with aging. Nature answered the call, in the form of Solidago virgaurea subsp. Alpestris (aka: goldenrod). The following patent explains.
Alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Solidago virgaurea subsp. Alpestris (goldenrod) for cosmetic or dermatological applications
European Patent EP3173065
Publication date: Feb. 28, 2018
Assignee: Chanel Parfums Beauté, Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS) and Université de Nice Sophia Antipolis
This invention relates to an extract of aerial parts of Solidago virgaurea subsp. alpestris (goldenrod), its production process, and a cosmetic or dermatological composition containing it. The inventors discovered that said extract, obtained by a particular process, presents interesting activities in relation to cutaneous aging, pigmentation and microcirculation of the skin by means of stimulating or inhibiting physiological mechanisms.
According to the inventors, this extract imparts anti-MMP3 and anti-MMP9 activity; demonstrates antioxidant properties; activates cutaneous microcirculation; and exhibits depigmenting activity. Through these activities, the ingredient can delay replicative senescence, prevent the transition of papillary fibroblasts into reticular fibroblasts, and reduce the expression of senescence markers.
Patent accessed on April 24, 2018.