A study in Molecules was published at the end of May 2020 regarding skin hydration and barrier potential of cosmetic matrices with bee products.
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Honey, honey extracts and bee products are traditionally used as bioactive molecules in many cosmetic areas. The aim of this study was primarily to evaluate the effect of cosmetic matrices containing honey and bee products on the skin. Between selected honey and bee products, there are differences in the ability to hydrate the skin and improve its barrier properties, including adjusting the acidity of the skin surface.
A study was done entailing a questionnaire survey on the knowledge and awareness of the effects and potential uses of bee products. The effects of bee molecules at various concentrations were observed by applying 12 formulations to the skin of the volar side of the forearm by non-invasive bioengineering methods on a set of 24 volunteers for 48 hr.
High moisturizing properties have been found in matrices with a glycerin extract of honey. Matrices containing forest honey had better moisturizing effects than those containing flower honey. Barrier properties were enhanced by gradual absorption, especially in formulations with both glycerin and aqueous honey extract. The observed organoleptic properties of the matrices assessed by sensory analysis through 12 evaluators did not show statistically significant differences except for color and spreadability. There are differences in the ability to hydrate the skin, reduce the loss of epidermal water and affect the pH of the skin surface, including the organoleptic properties between honey and bee product matrices according to their type and concentration.
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The selected honey and bee product’s effectiveness is dependent on the type and concentration of the product incorporated into the cosmetic vehicle. As previously mentioned, there are high moisturizing properties that have been found in emulsion matrices with a glycerin extract of honey, which is attributed to the synergistic effect of glycerin present, which is a traditional humectant often used in cosmetic products.
Cosmetic matrices’ containing higher concentrations of honey or bee products hydrated the skin more effectively except for the aqua–mel extract formulation where lower concentrations were found to be more favorable. Even the skin treated with matrices containing other bee products had a higher proportion of water in its corner layer. Barrier properties were enhanced by gradual absorption, especially in samples with both glycerin and aqueous honey extract.
A finding from the measurement results was the shift of the skin pH to the neutral area. By sensory analysis, differences in color of emulsion matrices were evaluated from organoleptic properties. Cosmetic matrices enriched with honey or bee products are suitable for skin care, which is repeatedly exposed.
Read more about this study here.