White mulberry tree roots were the first source of inspiration—and rare prenylated flavonoids—to be developed into a well-aging skin care active as a result of the new partnership between Clariant and Plant Advanced Technologies (PAT).
Prenylium (INCI: Not Provided) is a product traceably derived from Morus alba, or mulberry, tree root extract that according to Clariant, contains 2000% prenylated flavonoids thanks to PAT's Plant Milking Technology. Said technology stimulates the production of the plant's phytochemical profile in its roots, what are grown in an aeroponic and soilless system, harvested, and sustainably regrown and reharvested.
These prenylated flavonoids reportedly have been shown to protect the skin matrisome, i.e., genes coding for entities that support the integrity of skin physiology, in turn reducing the appearance of wrinkles and increasing skin smoothness. This class of bioactive compounds demonstrates a higher affinity with cellular membranes and better interaction with biological targets of interest than non-prenylated flavonoids, Clariant reports.
The ingredient was shown in vitro to modulate the expression of the CCN1 protein to fortify matrisome integrity. It also rebalanced the equilibrium between collagen synthesis and degradation; in fact, Clariant observed all active compounds in Prenylium to inhibit collagenase activity.
Positive results were noted at the clinical level, too. User-perceiveable effects were recorded in terms of reduced wrinkles, improved skin smoothness and plumping effects. Specifically, a group of 22 females, ages 45 to 70 years, with wrinkles applied a product twice daily containing 1% of the product versus a placebo in a double-blind, randomized manner. Results were analyzed after four and eight weeks of application.
The data demonstrated time-dependent wrinkle reduction; deepest wrinkles were reduced by 12.7% after 4 weeks and by 16.6% after 8 weeks. Skin plumping also improved by 13.4% after 8 weeks.
Alexandre Lapeyre, head of marketing for Clariant, commented: “Prenylium’s role in maintaining key skin matrisome components and protecting them from alterations that would normally result over time and through UV exposure makes it a particularly market-relevant active for skin care formulators keen to develop effective skin care solutions for the growing 'well-aging' generation."
For more information, contact Clariant.