Navigating the Challenges of Formulating with Naturals

October 23, 2008 | Contact Author | By: Lakshmi Prakash, PhD and Muhammed Majeed, PhD, Sabinsa Corp.
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Keywords: botanicals | Boswellia serrata | tetrahydrocurcuminoids | dispersibility | stability | skin permeation

Abstract: Formulating with natural botanical extracts poses unique challenges to formulators such as color issues, ingredient instability, poor absorption of actives, dispersibility problems, and quality, safety and efficacy concerns. Following are some answers to these challenges.

A judicious blend of art and science is critical to creating natural cosmeceuticals for use in personal care products. The major challenge is fi nding ingredients that are compatible with existing formulations. Aesthetics is a particularly important concern. For example, while there is much interest in using natural botanical extracts in cosmetic preparations, a too-dark color, a gritty texture, ingredient instability, poor absorption of actives, or dispersibility problems could render the “healthy and natural” ingredient unattractive. Additionally, the safety and effi cacy of natural ingredients need to be established in order to enable their use in finished personal care products.