Foundations, and most other categories of color cosmetics for that matter, have become multitasking products by incorporating a treatment aspect. Plumping, smoothing, lifting and especially anti-aging ingredients are almost always formulated into liquid, powder, cream and mineral makeup for both mass and prestige brands. This observation is true of L'Oréal Paris' Visible Lift Smooth Absolute Foundation SPF 17. While the company's claim to eliminate "10 years of aging in a single stroke" seems a little ambitious, this column will review the ingredient deck for claim support and functionality.
The emulsifying system in this product is water-in-silicone (w/s), which gives it the added advantages of being lightweight, silky, long-wearing and possibly water resistant. W/S emulsions are optimal for liquid foundations because of their ease of spreading and lack of streaking. There are multiple forms of silicone derivatives in this formula including volatile and gum types. The formula also contains a small amount of cellulose gum and acrylates copolymer for thickening and stability. Aside from cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane, which may be part of a blend, and phenyl trimethicone, the oil phase includes pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate and the organic sunscreen octinoxate. The humectants are butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and a small amount of sorbitol.
The "soft focus" effect to "fill lines and wrinkles instantly" is due to the silica dimethyl silyate and the surface treated (disodium stearoyl lactylate and aluminum hydroxide) pigments. The claim is also supported by the precision metering capability of the brush. The bioactive or cosmeceutical ingredients include atelocollagen, retinyl palmitate, tocopherol and hydrolyzed elastin, which support the plumping, smoothing and lifting claims.
The preservative system consists of phenoxyethanol and methylparaben. In this formula, most likely, any ingredient listed after the phenoxyethanol is present in the formula at less than 1%. Rounding out our foundation formula,titanium dioxide, iron oxides and bismuth oxychloride contribute the pigments. Titanium dioxide does double duty as the inorganic sunscreen active.
Of note, the product does not list or contain fragrance or fragrance masking agents.
Biography: Susan Raffy, Susan Raffy Consulting
Susan Raffy, president of Susan Raffy Consulting, has more than 25 years of experience in the personal care industry, including a number of positions in personal care R&D. Her first position after obtaining her Bachelor of Arts degree in chemistry from the University of California, San Diego, in 1982, was developing pharmaceuticals and nutritional supplements for American McGaw. She also briefly worked as a research assistant in pulmonary medicine at the University of Texas’s Health Science Center/Veterans Administration Hospital before making her foray into cosmetic formulation as associate scientist in the Allercreme Cosmetics division of Alcon Laboratories Inc. in 1985. After a few years at Alcon, Raffy continued formulating at Physicians Formula Cosmetic Inc., where she was a scientist responsible for new product development using innovative raw materials and advanced technology for hypoallergenic skin treatment. In 1990, she joined Aware Products Inc. as director of research and development/quality assurance. Her experience then transitioned to business, with positions as VP of business development/technical sales for GAR Laboratories Inc. and technical sales representative and industry specialist for Lipscomb Chemical Company Inc. Raffy went back to formulating as the director of product development for the beauty division of Guthy-Renker Corp. At the same time, she began teaching at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, where she was named Outstanding Instructor of the Year. Following, she was president of CTF Concepts Inc. and senior sales manager and technical director for Randall International LP before beginning her consulting business in 2008. Raffy is an active member Society of Cosmetic Chemists, where she has served as chair, summer event coordinator and newsletter editor for the California chapter. She is also an active member of the American Chemical Society and Beauty Industry West.
Susan Raffy
