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How can brands of all sizes develop product innovations for a rapidly changing marketplace?

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Aquaporins: The One-Molecule-at-a-Time Moisturizer

This column describes aquaporins and outlines their 16-year history, with particular interest in an aquaglycero-porin found in human skin. Future columns will highlight the activities of several cosmetic manufacturers and their compositions to “stimulate” that aquaporin as a way to beautify human skin and hair.

The 7th International Conference on Cosmetic Regulations

On October 20-22, 2003, more than 300 delegates gathered at the Le Meridien Grand Pacific Hotel on Tokyo Bay for the 7th International Conference on Cosmetic Regulations. Every three years, U.S., EU and Japanese trade associations for the cosmetic industry sponsor this meeting in order to gain mutual understanding and work toward harmonizing global regulations of cosmetics. There were no spectacular announcements, unlike the last conference in 2000 in Malta when Japan announced significant changes in their cosmetic regulations.

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FDA Clears the Air on CBD Reform Efforts

While CBD is trending across market segments, the rules in play to ensure public health and market direction are baffling at best. As such, the FDA has issued an update outlining its efforts to provide clarity.

Bliss Firm, Baby, Firm

Read the Label Online: Bliss Firm, Baby, Firm

The main claims for this serum are lifting and volumizing, which can be supported by the numerous cosmeceutical actives such as alpha and beta hydroxy acids, stem cell extracts, minerals and peptides. This column will review the ingredient listing for claims substantiation and functionality.

Analytical Device Raises the Bar on UVA-PF

A new UV transmittance analyzer has been designed to exceed Colipa's UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) requirements to support the development of higher protection factor sunscreens.

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VIDEO: 2 Questions on the FDA's Triclosan Ruling

The FDA's ruling on triclosan raises two questions, which David C. Steinberg describe in this fourth video in our series. However, he concedes that fighting the ruling is like "doubling down on an already-lost bet."

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Do it for the 'Gram: The Biggest Fall 2018 Makeup Trends on Social Media

Riviter, a company specializing in visual search solutions, teamed up with Cosmoprof North America to scan 66,000 photos and videos to discover the buzziest makeup looks for Fall 2018.

Part I: The In vitro Effects of a Natural Dipeptide on the Biological Cascade

The peptide N-Acetyl-Tyr-Arg-Hexadecylester (NATAH) was found to stimulate the synthesis of tropoelastin in cultured human dermal fibroblasts as well as augment the activity of all important actors in the assembly of elastic fibers, including Fibrillin 1, Fibulin 5, Decorin, LOX and Transglutaminase, among others. This is shown here both in monolayer cell cultures and in a 3D skin model.

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Patent Pick: Progress on the SPF/UVA-PF Front

The sun was shining on Unilever inventors when they uncovered a new chemistry combination to improve SPF and UVA-PF factors for enhanced sun protection. A new patent application explains.

Eye Make-up On the Rise in Japan

Eye make-up is on the rise in Japan, according to the recently released Fuji Keizai report.

Visualizing the Impact of Emulsifiers on Emulsion Perception

This paper describes an approach to systematically investigate the intrinsic effects of emulsifiers, quantify them and translate them into consumer preferences. These are processed mathematically and displayed in a simplified, two-dimensional map to assist formulation work.

Aquaporins: The One-Molecule-at-a-Time Moisturizer

This column describes aquaporins and outlines their 16-year history, with particular interest in an aquaglycero-porin found in human skin. Future columns will highlight the activities of several cosmetic manufacturers and their compositions to “stimulate” that aquaporin as a way to beautify human skin and hair.

Cosmetic Ingredients on the EU’s Dangerous Substances List

The Cosmetics Directive 76/768/EEC was recast as Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on Nov. 30, 2009, and this recast will totally repeal the original legislation on July 11, 2013. While the recast still contains a Dangerous Substances List, elements of the list have changed. This column distills some 1,355 pages of regulation down to review the cosmetic ingredients listed.

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Beiersdorf Pairs Glycation Inhibitor with CoQ10 in its Latest Nivea Q10 Launch

Beiersdorf is "doubling down" against aging with its latest Nivea offering, the Q10 Dual Action Serum. The product combines a patented glycation-inhibiting technology, N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline, with the benefits of coenzyme Q10 to reduce wrinkles.

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Indena Hops on the Anti-pollution Trend Train

Indena is going beyond giving dirt the brush-off with Vitachelox. This ingredient is an optimized blend of botanical compounds that's designed help protect skin from pollution damage.

Validating the Effectiveness of Rubbing on Percutaneous Penetration

The effect of rubbing on percutaneous penetration has long been questioned. Existing data regarding rubbing effects is sparse, and what is available is controversial at best. While some evidence suggests that rubbing increases absorption, others note the opposite. Further understanding of the rubbing effect on percutaneous penetration may offer a more complete picture in relation to the application of drugs, cosmetics and skin care.

Boscia Bright White Mask

Read the Label Online: Boscia Bright White Mask

The proliferation of “whitening,” “brightening,” “clarifying” and “evening” cosmetic products continues with the launch of Boscia’s Bright White Mask, a peel-off mask that “helps to visibly even skin tone and helps diminish the appearance of hyperpigmentation.” This column will review the ingredient listing for functionality and claims substantiation.

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