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Type: Article

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Using In vivo and In vitro Testing for Evidence-based Development of Anti-aging Ingredients

The need for a conceptual approach to skin aging, the need to combine in vitro and in vivo findings and the new direction for cosmetic ingredient manufacturers are discussed here.

Comparison of Age Determination by Three Evaluation Methods: Self-assessment, Expert Grader and Naïve Grader

This exploratory study investigates how consumers perceive age, using objective and subjective approaches. Results of this study suggest that when a subjective approach is implemented for age determination, subjects affix their emotions to the evaluation. The reverse logic was applicable for the expert and naïve grader methods, as grader results appeared more neutral than the self-assessment.

woman in orange swimsuit wearing sunglasses standing in pool with head turned and wet hair

4 Damaging Effects of Pool Disinfectants in Hair and Skin: A Review — Plus 3 Product Opportunities

This article reviews the chemistry of swimming pool water as well as (limited) research in the literature about the effects of chronic exposure to swimming pool water in skin and hair. It also offers ideas for product development to address these effects.

Bar Soap Containing Water-soluble Phosphate Polymers for Controlled Release of Antimicrobial Silver and Other Bioactive Metal Ions

This paper presents data on the antimicrobial performance of a silver ion-releasing phosphate polymer incorporated into a bar soap product. Two studies test the speed, efficacy and longevity of the antimicrobial effect, highlighting the potential of these materials for the controlled, sustained release of bioactive metal ions in cosmetic products.

A Dermatological View—Exploring Potential Differences in Percutaneous Penetration and Barrier Function Between Individuals of Different Ethnicity or Skin Color

The current understanding of percutaneous penetration and parameters that can influence it remains a sub judice area. Ethnicity or pigmentation, for instance, can be implied in percutaneous absorption for which several studies, described here, have been conducted to clarify their roles.

Frequency of Use of Preservatives 2003

The importance of participating in the FDA’s Voluntary Registration of Cosmetics Formulations program is reviewed, and that program’s data on the frequency of use of preservatives is presented.

Frequency of use of Preservatives 2001

From data collected in the FDA's Voluntary Registration of Cosmetics Formulations program, the author reports on the preservative most frequently used in cosmetics sold in the United States in 2001 and 1996.

Effect of Branching on Surfactant Properties of Sulfosuccinates

Sulfosuccinates, most commonly either ethoxylated or amido products, have been around for a long time and are used to provide foam, detergency and wetting in formulations. In this article, their wetting and foam attributes are evaluated, examining the effect of branching on these key surfactant properties.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: Perception of Reality or Reality of Perception?

"Suppliers promise quite a lot to their customers," Wiechers tells us. "And [manufacturers] love to insist on more...This attitude promotes a shift from reality to perception." Read on to learn this month's lesson from Wiechers.

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Safe and Strategic: Hyaluronic and Retinoic Acid Derivative Allays Aging and Acne

A hyaluronic acid and retinoic acid derivative were developed to combine their individual anti-acne and anti-aging efficacies. In vitro and in vivo testing, described here, showed the conjugate penetrated skin to exert the desired biological activities—in low concentrations and without irritation.

Derm View: Chemoprevention of Skin Cancer: Role of Antioxidants

Skin cancer is diagnosed in more than 1.5 million people yearly and more than 90% of the cases are believed to be related to sun exposure. This article discusses current knowledge on the biological process of UV-induced skin damage. Of particular interest is the role of antioxidants in the prevention of carcinogenesis.

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10 Years of Collaboration for the Sustainable Use of Argan

The argan tree—a secluded, fragile natural resource in Southern Morocco–has become a shining example of how blending business, ecological preservation and fair trade collaboration can result in a viable consumer product that enhances the economic lifestyle of those who produce it as well as preserving a specific ecosystem niche.

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Is the Fear of Aging Polluting the Fountain of Youth?

California is proposing to ban the sale of certain anti-aging products to children 13 and under. This follows a global flurry of tweens storming retailers to get their hands on potent anti-aging products. Why? And what's the risk? One derm weighs in.

Cooking Chemistry and the Formulator: Red and White Meats and Fish

This article is the second in a four-part series that highlights connections between the chemistry of cooking and personal care product development—including the reactions that occur and why, and how to best utilize these reactions—for the benefit of novice formulators.

Cooking Chemistry And The Formulator

Cooking Chemistry and the Formulator: Red and White Meats and Fish

This article is the second in a four-part series that highlights connections between the chemistry of cooking and personal care product development—including the reactions that occur and why, and how to best utilize these reactions—for the benefit of novice formulators.

The Effect of Skin Metabolism on the Absorption of Chemicals

Skin expresses enzymes that can metabolize endogenous molecules but little is known regarding how they impact the delivery of xenobiotics. This review of recent works shows that skin metabolism alters the dermal absorption of lipophilic compounds, which opens new areas of investigation regarding the safety and efficacy of topically applied cosmetics.

A Century of Change: The Language of Raw Materials

This article celebrates the centennial of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine by reviewing the magazine’s coverage of several basic types of cosmetic raw materials that were introduced or used in the formulations of the 20th century.

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Effect of Perfumes on the Viscosity of Surfactant Systems

It is well-known that perfumes can affect the viscosity of bubble bath or shampoo formulations. Usually they have a thinning effect, but they can also cause a viscosity increase. The effect and its magnitude will vary with perfume type and also with the product formulation. Small changes in the latter can cause large changes in a perfume's effect on the viscosity.

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