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Section: Testing > Efficacy

[podcast] Naturals and Synthetics: On Even Ground?

Burt’s Bees may be best known for its lip balm but things are about to change; at least, if Celeste Lutrario, vice president of research and development for the company, has it her way.

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Comparatively Speaking: The INCI Names vs. Properties of Silicone Surfactants

Surface tension is a ruling factor in the formulator's world. In this edition of "Comparatively Speaking," Tony O'Lenick explains its influence on foam and wetting; he also demonstrates how little the INCI name reveals about a material's properties.

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CosmEthically ACTIVE certificate – Creating a new era of cosmetics

Products that not only make promises, but can actually keep them! CosmEthically ACTIVE is the first certificate that reviews natural cosmetics based on scientific evidence behind cosmetically active ingredients.

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Planting Ideas: Upcycled Rubber Seed Offers a Renewable Cosmetic Ingredient

The sustainable utilization of by-products from the para rubber production industry is presented here for cosmetics. Experiments confirmed the safety of para rubber seed oil, in addition to antioxidant and skin-lightening efficacies.

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Stroke of Genius: Successive Combing Force Yields Realistic Conditioning Results

Combing tests are widely used to characterize the conditioning performance of products at one snapshot in time. A successive combing force device was designed to more realistically simulate the entire shampooing and conditioning process. Here, the authors put it to the test.

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Sandblasting to Improve the Reproducibility of In vitro Sunscreen Evaluation

SPF test results from substrates treated using a traditional sandblasting technique are compared with those from substrates treated using a new process. Based on the topographic control of 10 batches and 34 sunscreen evaluations, the authors concluded the new process had better topographic reproducibility, consequently improving the SPF repeatability and reproducibility in vitro.

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Kao Test Gets to the Bottom of Makeup Film Structures

Kao Corp. has developed a new test based on Raman spectroscopy to assess the internal film structure of makeup bases and determine their component distribution. An additional application explored sebum characterization in the films.

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Exposure, Skin Roughness and a New Niche Proposal

How often is your nose the first place to sunburn? Almost always. Swiss researchers wondered what such high exposure could mean for skin topography of the hands, nose, shoulders, cheeks and forehead. Their work points to a new potential market niche.

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Testing Tactics in Skin: Evaluating Radiance and Texture

Hydrated, even-toned skin with a natural glow, all indicators of health, has gained popularity in the last decade. This article explores the meaning of skin radiance, its relationship to texture and various ways to measure this desired attribute.

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Good Vibrations: Spectroscopic Imaging to Visualize the Delivery of Actives

Understanding how actives are delivered is essential to product development and to provide scientific data in support of a product’s efficacy. Vibrational imaging spectroscopy is shown here to enable the visualization of the penetration of cosmetic actives into skin, hair and nails.

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[video] News and Insights from Cosmetics & Toiletries: 6/1/2018

Is it June already? Rachel Grabenhofer confirms, with this week's video recap of news and insights from the cosmetics R&D industry.

The Nagoya Protocol for Cosmetics and Extracts

The Nagoya Protocol is an international law applying to genetic resources and ensuring the countries of origin share in the benefits from using these materials.

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[podcast] CeraVe, Ingredients and Psoriasis Relief

"Ceramides, urea and salicylic acid ... are all going to have a lot of impact on the disease process," explained Neal Bhatia, M.D. This second in a three-part podcast series explores the CeraVe brand, ingredients and psoriasis relief.

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Managing Adversities: Atopic Dermatitis and the Microbiome

The AD process and S. aureus provide targets for intervention, which can be explored in vitro as described here. Although not causative, there is a strong correlation between the severity of AD and density of S. aureus in the microbiome.

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[podcast] The Smell of Success: P&G's Wilkerson on Consumer-acceptable Scalp Care

What's that smell? Not the infamous selenium. In this exclusive podcast, Rolanda Wilkerson, Ph.D., principal scientist at P&G, shares how the Head & Shoulders brand was re-formulated for consumer-acceptance, among other insights. Listen now!

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A Great Barrier, Enhanced: A Review of Oral PUFA Supplements for Skin

Skin breakdown is implicated in many areas of health, and transepidermal (TEWL) water loss can indicate the integrity of the skin barrier. This article reviews the literature for evidence of how oral supplementation with polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) could positively impact TEWL, and therefore, skin barrier functioning in healthy individuals.

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Lauder Findings on Sirtuins, Stress and Eucalyptus

New findings highlight the importance of sirtuins in skin cell activity, how they relate to environmental signals and circadian rhythm, plus the antioxidant efficacy of eucalyptus.

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A Safety, Toxicity and Irritation Testing Primer

To ensure a product’s success, especially in light of ‘clean beauty’ tenets, it must be tested for stability as well as safety and efficacy. The following primer offers an overview of key tests to perform as products are developed and prepared for launch. Click through to the digital magazine for more.

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