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Efficacy
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Section: Testing > Efficacy
Skin Care
A New Code for Skin Care, Part II: Breakthroughs in the Delivery of RNAi Therapeutics
As described in Part I, the cosmetics industry has been developing RNAi technologies for skin care applications. However, a major stumbling block has been their delivery into skin. This second installment briefly reviews new delivery methods for the implementation and commercialization of RNAi-based products.
Efficacy
Validate the efficacy of actives, raw materials & products in preventing/repairing skin damage from environmental pollution
Learn more about The Environmental Stress Panel – an innovative gene expression panel developed by Genemarkers, the leader in applying state-of-the-art genomics technologies to personal care product development.
Companies
New Kao Reseach and Innovation Center to Study Kansei Science, fMRI
The new center will bring together all beauty research and development within the Kao Group and go beyond typical cosmetic studies.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Is Your Microbiology Lab FDA-compliant? Part I: Personnel, Facilities and Equipment
This two-part article provides an overview of areas relevant to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA’s) inspection of cosmetic microbiology laboratories. Part II will appear in our July 2018 edition.
Testing
Propanediol Caprylate: Shifting the Microbiome, Sebum Levels and Classic Approach to Dandruff
Propanediol caprylate was previously shown to deactivate
Malassezia
for dandruff control. In parallel, its effects to shift the balance of
Cutibacterium
and
Staphylococcus
in the scalp microbiome, and reduce dandruff and sebum are explored here.
Efficacy
Body Talk: Defining Volume, A Technical Dissertation on Hair Body and Volume
Consumer definitions of hair
volume
and
body
differ from their scientific counterparts, while both remain vague. This column discusses challenges concerning the study of hair volume and body, including the influences of hair coloring and styling.
Skin Care
When Acne Attacks, Hexylresorcinol and Ethyl Linoleate Fight Back: Experimental (part II)
Although
P. acnes
is a commensal bacterium of normal skin, together with the sebaceous gland, it clearly is implicated in acne. Here,
P. acnes
and other possible causes are reviewed, and a hexylresorcinol and ethyl linoleate anti-acne treatment to target them is described.
Efficacy
In vivo Delivery Confirmation: Measuring the Deposition of Salicylic Acid from Anti-acne Face Wash
Measuring the delivery of active ingredients is an important part of the product development process, and particularly desirable are non-invasive, in vivo methods. This work describes the use of fluorescence excitation emission matrices in vivo to measure the deposition of salicylic acid from anti-acne face wash products.
Literature/Data
[podcast] Consumer Gaps, Waterless Forms, Bio-inspired Ideas and More in Hair Research
This podcast underlines opportunities for hair care product development, including unaddressed consumer segments, waterless products, concepts from the hair transplant and cloning communities, and more. Listen now!
Event Coverage
BASF Breaks Through Pollution, Sebum, UV and Patch Testing During IFSCC Congress
Anti-pollution, oily skin, advanced sunscreens and more spanned the breadth of BASF's research presented during the IFSCC 2018.
Testing
Mitigating 'Maskne:' Boldo to Balance Sebum, Bacteria and Redness in Acneic Skin
Peumus boldus
(boldo) extract was tested for effects on sebum production,
S. aureus
growth and
C. acnes
lipase activity in vitro, as well as on skin redness in vivo. This work aimed to develop a natural ingredient to control sebum, inhibit microbes and their activity, and reduce redness in acne-αfflicted skin.
Literature/Data
Perking Up Skin: Green Coffee Promotes Barrier Recovery, Turn Over and Lightening
Epidermal barrier recovery and the desquamation of dead corneocytes reinvigorate aged skin. Hyperpigmentation accumulates as skin ages. A green coffee bean extract was tested here and found to address these issues.
Efficacy
Path Uncovered to Create Dermal Papilla-like Cells and Advance Hair Follicle Growth
Researchers from a group of universities in China have uncovered an approach to convert dermal fibroblasts into dermal papilla cell-like cells to advance hair follicle regeneration.
Efficacy
Shrinking Pores at Their Core: Gallic Acid Derivate Controls ROS and Sebum Factors
This study proposes a unique molecule derived from gallic acid to prevent enlarged and clogged facial pores. The ingredient is partly activated by the microbiome and protects against oxidative stress and excess sebum—two key factors at the core of enlarged pores.
Methods/Tools
The Camera Never Lies: Visualizing Sun Protection Loss and Ways to Fortify Films
This work utilizes a UVA camera specially designed to quantify UV protection. It confirms sunscreen efficacy loss over time. Results underline the need to improve the durability of sunscreen films; in relation, a natural wax derivative is exemplified.
Sun Protection
2025 Will See Faster, More Ethical and Accurate SPF Testing: ISO Approves Two New Methods
In December 2024, the ISO gave its long-awaited final approval of two SPF test methods that experts say are more ethical, economical and accurate than current approaches. One in particular is also reportedly faster, reducing analysis from weeks to days.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Is Your Microbiology Lab FDA-compliant? Part II: Cultures, Growth Media, Reagents and Testing
This two-part article provides an overview of areas relevant to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA’s) inspection of cosmetic microbiology laboratories. Part 1 covered personnel, facilities and equipment, test materials and procedures, and documentation. Part 2 addresses microbial cultures and growth media, biochemical reagents, test procedures and more.
Event Coverage
IFSCC Winners: Hair Muscle Anti-aging in 4D, Vascularized Skin Model and Odor-inhibiting Fragrance
Next-gen imaging shows hair muscles prevent skin sagging. Advanced vascularized skin modeling predicts skin absorption. And, an olfactory receptor assay finds fragrances to inhibit odor production. These papers won top honors during the IFSCC Congress.
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