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Section: Research > Literature/Data

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5 Decades of Nutricosmetics: Amway Chews Over Clinical Studies of Carotenoids

Researchers from Amway, et al., have published an extensive review in Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine of 50 years of clinical studies exploring the skin protection benefits of carotenoid ingestibles.

Sourcing and Using Maca and Suma Roots

In recent years, interest in sourcing plant roots as active ingredients for cosmetic use has grown tremendously. Roots such as maca and suma are rich in secondary metabolites and, as described here, can have specific actions on skin to increase its vitality and response to environmental stresses.

Unilever, University of Liverpool Partner to Research Next Generation of Renewable Chemicals

The three-year project will involve developing renewable chemicals from the surplus sugars, fats, oils and carbohydrates produced via commodity byproducts and forestry wastes.

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Patent Pick: Thermal Anti-aging Takes the Heat Off of Skin

Chanel inventors aim to take the heat off of skin in a new patent application for a cosmetic powder that exhibits low thermal conductivity to protect skin against thermally induced aging—whether too hot or too cold.

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[video] News and Insights: Metallics, Florals and Fermentation

Before the new month begins, catch up on our takes on the latest in personal care—like a recent patent for glossy and pigmented metallics, neon sun care and cleanser claims—in this week's recap video.

The Effect of Glycerol on the Water-holding Capacity of Chemically Irritated Skin*

Glycerol is one humectant commonly employed due to its high hygroscopic and hyperosmotic properties. It is used in cosmetics as a moisturizer and in pharmaceutical formulations as an active compound.2 Being naturally present in the skin, glycerol was quickly identified for its role in skin hydration, similar to natural moisturizing factors (NMF).

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Herbal Extracts and Sebum Control and Other Topics

Stratum corneum (SC) hydration is partially regulated by water-soluble molecules, i.e., the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) that is associated with the corneocytes. Routine water exposure such as bathing may deplete NMF and alter the SC water-handling properties.

Cooking Chemistry and the Formulator: Egg Whites and Milk

This article is the first in a four-part series that will highlight connections between the chemistry of cooking and personal care product development—including the reactions that occur and why, and how to best utilize these reactions for the benefit of novice formulators.

Cooking Chemistry and the Formulator: Egg Whites and Milk

This article is the first in a four-part series that will highlight connections between the chemistry of cooking and personal care product development—including the reactions that occur and why, and how to best utilize these reactions for the benefit of novice formulators.

Ester Quats and Fatty Acid Amidoamines and Other Topics

Niacinamide and skin pigmentation: Hakozaki et al. have studied the effect of niacinamide on reducing skin pigmentation.

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[video] News and Insights: Animal Testing, EU Tariffs and More

Besides World Microbiome Day, this week brought news on the regulatory front for animal testing and tariffs, plus: a look at new ingredients, cream-gel formulating, a new Avon patent and more. Watch our video recap.

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Preserving the Facts on Parabens: An Overview of These Important Tools of the Trade

Parabens have a long history as effective preservatives in foods, cosmetics and drugs, with extensively documented human and environmental safety profiles. This article reviews these important ingredients.

Culture Shift: Rethinking the Role of Commensal Microflora of the Skin in Cosmetic Formulation

Much like bacteria in the gut, the skin’s microbiome plays an important role in skin health by excluding harmful transients and educating the immune system. The application of pre- and probiotic concepts in cosmetics presents a novel approach. While formulation with probiotics may pose challenges, the use of prebiotics and bacterial lysates, discussed here, may be a viable alternative.

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Emulgels and Others Hold Actives and Delivery Potential

Recent work from Cuidad Universitaria, Argentina, and Universidad de la República, Uruguay, confirms actives can successfully be incorporated into previously-optimized bioadhesive emulgels without negatively affecting gel properties.

Patent Picks—Hair and Eyelash Growth, Fixatives, Surfactants and More

Chosen biweekly by Rachel Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine editor, for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features recently issued patents relevant to hair care, styling and growth.

Diethanolamine Esterquats for Hair and Skin and Other Topics: Literature Findings

This month’s survey of recent patent and research literature describes moneymaking ideas for personal care product development including water-induced thickening of hair, surfactant/biopolymer mixures, a foam/aerosol hair conditioner, and yeast glucan carriers, among others.

Silver, Titanium and Zirconium: Metals in Cosmetics and Personal-Care Products

This is the fifth article in a series reviewing the metals present in personal care products.

Culture Shift: Rethinking the Role of Commensal Microflora of the Skin in Cosmetic Formulation

Much like bacteria in the gut, the skin’s microbiome plays an important role in skin health by excluding harmful transients and educating the immune system. The application of pre- and probiotic concepts in cosmetics presents a novel approach. While formulation with probiotics may pose challenges, the use of prebiotics and bacterial lysates, discussed here, may be a viable alternative.

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