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Methods/Tools
Biocatalyst for Change, Part II: Strategies to Engineer Pigment Production
Anthocyanins are flavonoid compounds found naturally in plants with promising potential for skin health and protection benefits. Sustaining their natural supply for industry has become increasingly important; as such, microbial routes for their production have been explored, such as those described here.
Skin Care
Cosmic Beauty: How Space Insights are Shaping Skin Care Innovations
Pollution and climate change speed skin aging, calling for innovative new solutions. Space stressors like radiation and microgravity mimic these effects, as described here, and can inspire technologies to tackle Earth’s skin care challenges.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Skin Imaging, Carnitine Creatine for Skin, Sclareol for Antiaging and More
Cosmetics & Toiletries
revives its former “Patent Picks” column with this edition, featuring recently issued patents relevant to the skin care category.
Actives
Naturally Inhibit Fragrance Degradation: Rice Bran Sterols in Emulsions
The use of phytosterols is proposed here to retard the deterioration of cosmetic emulsions caused by perfume degradation. For the described tests, phytosterols from crude rice bran oil, a natural and economic choice, were used. A simple and easily controlled technique is described through which the phytosterols provided the desired results.
Natural/Sustainable
Nature-inspired Innovation
The intersection of R&D and consumer needs.
Skin Care
Aquaporins: Stimulation by Vitamins, Steroids and Sugar Alcohols
Aquaporins are proteins that reside in the cellular membrane. In response to osmotic forces, they control the passage of specific materials into and out of the cell. As reported previously, one type of aquaporin in human skin is aquaporin-3 (AQP3). Four personal care companies have studied the world of biochemicals to discover AQP3 stimulators from three different sources: vitamins, steroids and sugar alcohols, which are described here.
Literature/Data
Aloe: Activity, Consistency, Authenticity and More—A Review
The present article explores how sources of
Aloe vera
can vary in chemistry, and what to consider when formulating with this ingredient.
Aloe vera
has multiple claimed skin care benefits that link to the plant's growth, cultivation and harvest.
Formulas/Products
Ethnic Variation in Skin Properties: Quo Vadis?
Part I of this piece, published in the April issue of C&T magazine, began an update on the quantity and quality of dermatological knowledge on the skinmetrics of racial differences in skin structure and function. Part II completes this update and offers an interpretation in reference to skin care for different ethnic groups.
Literature/Data
Natural Hair Dyes, Self-tanning Solutions and Other Topics: Literature Findings
This month’s survey of recent patent and research literature describes moneymaking ideas for personal care product development, including fatty acid combinations for in-shower moisturization, stabilizing UV absorbers, travoprost to prevent hair loss and glycyrrhizine in self-tanners, among others.
Skin Care
Aquaporins: Stimulation by Vitamins, Steroids and Sugar Alcohols
Aquaporins are proteins that reside in the cellular membrane. In response to osmotic forces, they control the passage of specific materials into and out of the cell. As reported previously, one type of aquaporin in human skin is aquaporin-3 (AQP3). Four personal care companies have studied the world of biochemicals to discover AQP3 stimulators from three different sources: vitamins, steroids and sugar alcohols, which are described here.
Literature/Data
Nanotechnology in Cosmetics: A Review
As the commercial applications of nanotechnology have increased in the past decade, a number of nanoparticles are now being used in cosmetic products with optimized sensory attributes and consumer-perceivable benefits. This article reviews various forms of nanoparticles used in the cosmetic industry, discussing their properties, interactions with the skin and potential health effects.
Literature/Data
Perking Up Skin: Green Coffee Promotes Barrier Recovery, Turn Over and Lightening
Epidermal barrier recovery and the desquamation of dead corneocytes reinvigorate aged skin. Hyperpigmentation accumulates as skin ages. A green coffee bean extract was tested here and found to address these issues.
Literature/Data
Natural Hair Dyes, Self-tanning Solutions and Other Topics: Literature Findings
This month’s survey of recent patent and research literature describes moneymaking ideas for personal care product development, including fatty acid combinations for in-shower moisturization, stabilizing UV absorbers, travoprost to prevent hair loss and glycyrrhizine in self-tanners, among others.
Literature/Data
From Caper to Prickly Pear for Dermatitis to Dual Phase Mouthwash: Literature Review
This month’s survey of recent patent and research literature describes money-making ideas for personal care product development, including indirect antioxidants for skin protection, caper and prickly pear extracts to address skin conditions, granulated shampoo and a dual phase mouthwash, among others.
Literature/Data
Characterizing and Interpreting Sensitive Skin — Plus 9 Tips to Formulate for It
This article explores, from a dermatologist’s perspective, the basic characteristics of, certified products for and perceptions of sensitive skin, among others. It also outlines formulation considerations for this growing market.
Skin Care
Unlocking the Mind-Skin Connection for Stress-Smart Innovation in Neurocosmetics
The future of "stress-smart" skincare lies in developing products that support the skin’s stress-responsive biology across multiple pathways.
Literature/Data
Molecular Targets of Aging Processes
The purpose of this article is to discuss some key target molecules and receptors involved with aging mechanisms. As scientists learn more about the biochemical processes involved with aging, an increasing number of these loci are discovered that could be selected as targets for cosmeceutical ingredients with the final goal of an end-product with good anti-aging benefits.
Literature/Data
Boosting SPF with Copolymers and Other Topics: Literature Findings
This month’s survey of recent patent and research literature describes moneymaking ideas for personal care development, including an anti-inflammatory to soothe the skin post raw material irritation, lactulose for hair styling, reducing the damage caused by perms, boosting SPF with copolymers and the treatment of skin with heated lotion, among others.
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