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Literature/Data
Penetration of Cosmetics Into and Through the Stratum Corneum
The penetration routes of substances through the stratum corneum and how these transport pathways function are becoming better understood. Despite this progress, however, the penetration mechanisms of cosmetic formulations remain mysterious. This overview presents current knowledge on the various pathways of penetration, and suggests that even if cosmetic formulations penetrate no deeper than the surface, their efficacy may still be optimal.
Anti-aging/Face
Deglycation Mechanism to Treat Diabetic, Elderly and Xerotic Skin
The non-enzymatic process of glycation affects macromolecules in the skin, causing premature aging especially under diabetic, xerotic and elderly conditions. As the present research describes, a mechanism of deglycation can be used to target these conditions using an imidazole derivate. Here, in vitro and in vivo assays on diabetic, xerotic and elderly panels show statistically significant positive results.
Actives
Infusing New Life into an Old Reliable Skin Treatment: Retinaldehyde
Retinaldehyde is suitable for many skin care applications, and when combined with other substances becomes even more versatile. One of its newest topical delivery systems provides multifunctional opportunities.
Literature/Data
Black Truffle, Nanocrystals and Flexible Films: Recent Literature Findings
In this monthly survey of recent patent and literature research, the author describes money-making ideas in the personal care industry, ranging from a water-soluble scrubbing agent and black truffle for cell proliferation, to ascorbyl palmitate nanocrystals and an o/w emulsion for eyelash-volumizing and lengthening, among others.
Formulas/Products
Traditional and Modern Indian Color Cosmetics
The present article reviews traditional Indian color cosmetics, which are used still today, and considers their main ingredients. For example, kajal eye liner is marketed by most multinational brands in India and is regarded as a driver of sales for other products.
Literature/Data
Black Truffle, Nanocrystals and Flexible Films: Recent Literature Findings
In this monthly survey of recent patent and literature research, the author describes money-making ideas in the personal care industry, ranging from a water-soluble scrubbing agent and black truffle for cell proliferation, to ascorbyl palmitate nanocrystals and an o/w emulsion for eyelash-volumizing and lengthening, among others.
Literature/Data
Dermal Depths: Understanding Aging in Black Facial Skin*
How does skin aging progress differently in dark versus light skin? The present article reviews what’s known and elucidates the need for further research to describe and quantify aging in Black skin. Approaches to proper protection and care for dark skin also are outlined in brief.
Natural/Sustainable
Startup Solutions: A Survey of Green and Sustainable Innovations
Today is perhaps the most active time in decades for startup firms focused on natural (non-synthetic) and sustainable materials, replacement ingredients, green chemistry and fermentation technologies. This paper surveys several of them.
Efficacy
Illuminating Skin Radiance: α-Crystallin as a Target to Achieve Glass Skin
A newly developed peptide acts as a bio-highlighter and makeup alternative for a natural, glass skin appearance. Here, it is demonstrated to induce the production of endogenic a-crystallin, a molecular chaperone that plays a crucial role in skin proteostasis.
Literature/Data
Stimulating Sirtuins' Antiaging Appeal
Nicotinamide, the amide of niacin or vitamin B3, is used to treat arthritis. It also has demonstrated anti-inflammatory actions that may be of benefit in patients with inflammatory acne vulgaris. Nicotinamide, therefore, would appear to play a positive role in inhibiting inflammation but a negative role in aging. Are there other ways to stimulate sirtuins?
Literature/Data
Caprylyl Glycol/Phenethyl Alcohol Blend for Alternative Preservation of Cosmetics
In recent years, the safety of traditional preservatives has been called into question. Therefore, there is a need for alternatives that are effective, safe and sustainable—and that are non-controversial. In response, the present work investigates a mixture of caprylyl glycol and phenethyl alcohol, which is shown to provide antimicrobial activity in various skin and hair care formulations.
Literature/Data
Technically Speaking: Formulation Technologies and Other Topics
This column discusses the latest technology surrounding skin care, hair care, oral care, AP/DEO and sunscreen formulation. In addition, interesting raw material introductions for the personal care industry are also reviewed.
Literature/Data
Glycation and Skin Aging: A Review
The present article, adapted from Draelos and Pugliese*, provides a review of the chemistry involved in the glycation process to assist formulators in developing topical or nutricosmetic solutions for mature skin care.
Literature/Data
The Ins and Outs of Aging: Intrinsic/Extrinsic Factors and Nutricosmetic Fixes
The combined effects of aging over the human lifespan can impact the structural integrity and physiological functions of skin. The present article reviews these influences and proposes nutricosmetic solutions to support skin health and well aging.
Literature/Data
Health and Hair: Making the Nutrition Connection
The links between skin and overall health are well-documented, but connections to hair health are less clear. Here, the authors delve a little deeper to determine truths and myths in this area—and to identify current gaps in the research.
Literature/Data
Defining Moment for the Skin Microbiome: Interpreting Expressions and Misconceptions
This manuscript aims to dispel some misconceptions surrounding the microbiome as well as properly define the nomenclature. It also seeks to instill an appreciation for the magnitude of the ongoing research and what is yet to be revealed.
Literature/Data
SCC Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase Report
The annual SCC December program offered a variety of subjects in personal care; from multicultural formulating and sustainability, to tissue engineering and a special polymer/surfactant interaction tribute session in memory of Des Goddard.
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