Technically Speaking: Formulation Technologies and Other Topics

Dec 9th, 2013

Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Skin-warming massage compositions: Kosei Co. Ltd., Japan, describes skin-warming massage compositions containing glycerin, glycerin-modified silicones and heat-generating salts.¹ The compositions consist of a first phase containing glycerin and a glycerin-modified silicone, and a second phase containing a cosmetically applicable salt that generates heat by dissolving in water, wherein the first and second phases are mixed before application. Either phase may further contain spherical powders. An example formula includes a first phase containing 50% glycerin, polyglycerin-modified silicone, fragrance, preservative, colorant and water; and a second phase containing calcium chloride, colorant and a preservative. The massage composition is said to spread smoothly on the skin and have excellent storage stability.

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Germany, Denmark, the Netherlands, Norway and Sweden have submitted a proposal to restrict per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) under REACH. The ECHA will publish the detailed proposal, reportedly one of the broadest in the EU’s history, on Feb. 7, 2023.

ECHA Adds to Hazardous Chemicals List, Reviews PFAS and Classification Proposals

The ECHA has added one cosmetic-related ingredient to the "hazardous" list, and received a five-nation proposal to restrict PFAS and three intentions/proposals to harmonize classification of cosmetic-related substances. See which ones are named.

A grand gesture may be necessary to convince nay-sayers of the industry's commitment to consumer safety — regardless of ethnic heritage.

Color of Change to Retailers: Remove 'Toxic' Hair Products and 'Anti-Blackness'

Color of Change is calling on consumers to petition Target, ShopRite and other retailers to remove "toxic" lye relaxers and hair dyes that disproportionately affect Black consumers from shelves. This comes as the industry is making inclusivity inroads.

AQUALICIA® BIO: A Sustainable and Biomimetic Active for Deep Moisturization

AQUALICIA® BIO: A Sustainable and Biomimetic Active for Deep Moisturization

Hydration is a top priority for skin care consumers who also seek natural and effective ingredients. Aqualicia® BIO, extracted from acacia seeds, is a clinically proven moisturizing ingredient from Laboratoires Expanscience that meets these demands.

The data suggests a complex and evolving immunological delayed-type hypersensitivity response to a single application of DPCP over time. Future studies are needed to further evaluate its pharmacologic mechanisms.

Study Reveals Delayed Hypersensitivity Reaction to DPCP Topical

The data suggests a complex and evolving immunological delayed-type hypersensitivity in response to a single application of DPCP over time. Future studies are needed to further evaluate its pharmacologic mechanisms.

Significant increases in skin barrier lipids and skin-repairing lipids were observed in skin models treated with the company's Macrocystis pyrifera ferment.

How La Mer's Max Huber Labs' Macrocystis pyrifera Ferment Boosts Skin Lipids, Barrier Repair

The ability of Macrocystis pyrifera ferment to activate skin's production of essential lipids was presented by La Mer's Max Huber Labs during the 47th meeting of the Japanese Society for Investigative Dermatology, held in Dec. 2-4, 2022.

Sun protection is becoming established as a mainstay in consumer regimens. So how might the industry push the envelope when it comes to sunscreen innovation? A quick patent search provides clues.

Kynurenines, Layered SPF, Red Algae and More: Sunscreen Patent Roundup

The Universities of Princeton and Utah, L'Oréal, Unilever, Kolmar Korea, Athena, Shiseido, Murata Manufacturing, LG Household & Health and Beiersdorf, among others, have recently published patents related to sunscreen innovation. Following is a roundup.

The cosmetic world continues to take winding and unexpected terms. With much influence stemming from large events and social media, 2023 is likely to see the rise and fall of many trends, and perhaps a few entirely new ones as well.

Top 5 Cosmetics &Toiletries Trends of 2022

The cosmetics industry continues to take winding and unexpected turns, with much influence stemming from large events and social media. Extensions from current trends — e.g., scalp health from the skinification of hair — will spin off into new ones.

Atopic dermatitis (eczema) is a chronic condition typically treated with topical emollients, that turns skin red and itchy, causing flares to occur periodically due to epidermal barrier disruption to the TH-2 mediated inflammation process.

Sytheon Study Finds Isosorbide Fatty Acid Diesters Could Sooth Atopic Dermatitis

Researchers demonstrated synergistic anti-inflammatory effects in cytokine-induced tissue culture models of atopic dermatitis (eczema).

Biologically active substances with high commercial value, including oligosaccharides, exopolysaccharides, biosurfactants, enzymes, peptides and vitamins, are secreted by bacteria.

Microbes Convert Biodiesel Residuals to Lactic Acid, Boost $189 B Market

Work presented at the 2022 SINAFERM bioprocesses event describes the microbial production of lactic acid based on residual glycerin from biodiesel production. It's one example of the booming microbial products market, valued at ~US $189 billion in 2021.

Among the natural compounds, polyphenols have been widely explored for their radiation-absorbing properties.

Apple Polyphenols Grow Natural Sun Protection Possibilities

Plants have evolved metabolites to face photo-oxidative stress and irradiation. Apples, for example, are ripe with antioxidant and SPF opportunity, as research published in Molecules suggests.

This review first assesses the methods used to quantify 1,4-dioxane in surface water and drinking water, then extends the assessment to more complex commercially available products.

[updated] How to Ensure Cleansers Comply with Growing 1,4-Dioxane Regulations

A review in the Journal of Surfactants and Detergents explored means of measuring 1,4-dioxane levels in cleansers in order to comply with increasing ppm restrictions set by U.S. states. In this update, industry expert Tony O'Lenick adds context.