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Section: Formulas/Products > Skin Care

Properties of Emulsions: Structure and Skin Penetration

This work studied the influence of emulsion type and structure on the penetration of vitamins as cosmetic active ingredients. An emulsion of the w/o type and two different o/w emulsions were compared with an oil solution as a standard. A systematic in vitro study of penetration into the stratum corneum and the living skin was performed with the isolated perfused bovide udder skin model. The results substantiate the influence of emulsion type and stucture on the degree of penetration of water-soluble and oil-soluble vitamins into the skin.

Nanoemulsions vs. Emulsions in the Delivery of Coenzyme Q10 and Tocopheryl Acetate

This article compares the ability of mixed emulsifier nanoemulsions and polysorbate 60 emulsions to deliver coenzyme Q10 and tocopheryl acetate into the skin. In vitro skin penetration data shows that in newborn pig skin, nanoemulsions can deliver higher amounts of both actives than emulsions.

Nanoemulsions vs. Emulsions in the Delivery of Coenzyme Q10 and Tocopheryl Acetate

This article compares the ability of mixed emulsifier nanoemulsions and polysorbate 60 emulsions to deliver coenzyme Q10 and tocopheryl acetate into the skin. In vitro skin penetration data shows that in newborn pig skin, nanoemulsions can deliver higher amounts of both actives than emulsions.

Types of Skin Aging

The process of skin aging is complex and multifactorial, as structural, functional and aesthetic changes happen at a variable rate. It is misleading to consider skin aging as a uniform biological event; several distinct biological processes may occur concurrently. There are five types of skin aging, including: intrinsic, extrinsic, lifestyle, hormonal or catabolic.

Consumer Perspective—Skin Types and Sensory Experience

Sophisticated texture and fragrance as part of a formulation’s aesthetics are important to the discerning consumer, and skin type is the primary influence behind how the consumer perceives a skin care product. For example, consumers with dry skin require a richer moisturizer, even though the product should absorb quickly for a smooth finish.

Nonaqueous Emulsions: History and Current Specialized Applications

Since the early 1980s, nonaqueous emulsions have attracted technical interest as potential vehicles and delivery systems for personal care products. This is due to the development of a broad range of silicone-based emulsifiers, silicone polymers and other polymeric emulsifiers that have enabled their use. This article will briefly review their history and evolution into current-day specialized applications.

Visualizing the Impact of Emulsifiers on Emulsion Perception

This paper describes an approach to systematically investigate the intrinsic effects of emulsifiers, quantify them and translate them into consumer preferences. These are processed mathematically and displayed in a simplified, two-dimensional map to assist formulation work.

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Nature-derived Care for Sensitive and Difficult-to-treat Skin Types

A number of consumers can be classified as having difficult-to-treat skin types, being both dry and oily and prone to periodical inflammation in specific areas. New active ingredients derived from nature provide gentle yet efficacious solutions to address these needs. These skin types and solutions are addressed herein.

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Comparatively Speaking: O/W, W/O, Micro, Pickering and Suspo Emulsions

In this installment of his "Comparatively Speaking" series, industry expert Tony O'Lenick compares emulsion types for the benefit of novice formulators.

Nonaqueous Emulsions: History and Current Specialized Applications

Since the early 1980s, nonaqueous emulsions have attracted technical interest as potential vehicles and delivery systems for personal care products. This is due to the development of a broad range of silicone-based emulsifiers, silicone polymers and other polymeric emulsifiers that have enabled their use. This article will briefly review their history and evolution into current-day specialized applications.

Tara Gum for Emulsion Thickening and Texturizing

Seppic has launched a thickening and texturizing polymer that is 100% plant-derived.

Visualizing the Impact of Emulsifiers on Emulsion Perception

This paper describes an approach to systematically investigate the intrinsic effects of emulsifiers, quantify them and translate them into consumer preferences. These are processed mathematically and displayed in a simplified, two-dimensional map to assist formulation work.

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Patent Pick: α-Gel Intermediate and O/W Emulsion

Patent Picks are chosen by the editors from publicly available sources. Today's invention, from Shiseido, relates to an α-gel intermediate and its use to create stable o/w emulsions that do not require a cooling device.

PIT Versus PIF for the Rational Formulation of Emulsions

This article deliberately pushes the boundaries for cosmetics scientists, showing how the much-used phase inversion temperature (PIT) technique is a limiting special case of a more versatile, rational approach to surfactant optimization: HLD-NAC. This simple way of understanding the basic interactions within emulsion formulations can be generalized to create totally new ways of formulating stable emulsions.

PIT Versus PIF for the Rational Formulation of Emulsions

This article deliberately pushes the boundaries for cosmetics scientists, showing how the much-used phase inversion temperature (PIT) technique is a limiting special case of a more versatile, rational approach to surfactant optimization: HLD-NAC. This simple way of understanding the basic interactions within emulsion formulations can be generalized to create totally new ways of formulating stable emulsions.

To produce a stable emulsion, an emulsifying agent can be added to the oil and water that will either act as a barrier to alter the droplet coalescence rate, or create an interfacial film that can produce repulsive electrical forces between approaching droplets.

Zeta Potential and Particle Size to Predict Emulsion Stability

Emulsions are popular vehicles in skin care due to their affinity for the skin; however, they are thermodynamically unstable systems. This study investigates zeta potential and particle size distribution as potential screening tools to predict instabilities in emulsion-based cosmetic products, to supplement regular accelerated stability testing.

Liquid Crystal O/W Emulsions to Mimic Lipids and Strengthen Skin Barrier Function

In the present study, the authors produced liquid crystalline (LC) o/w emulsions whose structure mimics the skin’s intercellular lipids. These emulsions are shown in cosmetic formulations to strengthen skin barrier functions while maintaining stability at higher temperatures than that of the skin.

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Patent Picks—Microbe Separation, Emulsion Arrays and Salicylic Acid Delivery From Powder

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features processes for identifying microorganisms, forming emulsion arrays and delivering salicylic acid from powder.

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