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Actives
Human Growth Factors as Natural Healers: Current Literature and Application
The medical community’s research toward the advancement of healing and tissue regeneration has identified Human Growth Factors (HGF) as critical components in cutaneous wound healing, suggesting their potential for skin cell rejuvenation. Here, the author reviews the present work in this area and proposes HGFs for skin regeneration and reparative products, providing an example.
Event Coverage
Emotion, Visualization and Innovation at IFSCC in Rio
The IFSCC conference covered an array of subjects—from the psychology of rotating brushes, and discussion of neuron-adipocyte crosstalk to limit emotional stress-mediated fat accumulation; to hair straightening and conditioning, various visualization tools, and novel formulation approaches.
Sun Care
Safer Solar Protection: Going Beyond UV Defense, Part I
This two-part article is controversial. In part I, it reviews a number of concerns about the safety of traditional sunscreens. In part II, scheduled for February, the authors propose new approaches to move past these issues.
Skin Care
Aquaporins: Stimulation by Vitamins, Steroids and Sugar Alcohols
Aquaporins are proteins that reside in the cellular membrane. In response to osmotic forces, they control the passage of specific materials into and out of the cell. As reported previously, one type of aquaporin in human skin is aquaporin-3 (AQP3). Four personal care companies have studied the world of biochemicals to discover AQP3 stimulators from three different sources: vitamins, steroids and sugar alcohols, which are described here.
Efficacy
Sea Anemone Delivery of Collagen and γ-PGA for Anti-aging Benefits
The effective delivery of youth-preserving collagen and moisture remains a cosmetic Holy Grail. In response, this study describes a natural microinjection system based on the stinging cells of the
Cnidaria
sea anemone to effectively puncture the stratum corneum layer and deliver its content—both marine collagen and γ-PGA—into skin, offering a promising new class of solutions to age-old challenges.
Skin Care
Aquaporins: Stimulation by Vitamins, Steroids and Sugar Alcohols
Aquaporins are proteins that reside in the cellular membrane. In response to osmotic forces, they control the passage of specific materials into and out of the cell. As reported previously, one type of aquaporin in human skin is aquaporin-3 (AQP3). Four personal care companies have studied the world of biochemicals to discover AQP3 stimulators from three different sources: vitamins, steroids and sugar alcohols, which are described here.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Protection of Retinol in Organosilica Microparticles
In this article, retinol encapsulated in organosilica microparticles (12–14% w/w) having an average particle size of 0.3 micron are shown in a 40-day test period to exhibit enhanced stability to oxidation when compared with similar commercial stabilized retinol products.
Actives
Formulating for Menopausal Skin: Barrier Resilience, Structural Integrity and Skin Longevity Approaches
Menopausal skin presents distinct physiological and formulation challenges that extend beyond traditional anti-aging paradigms.
Literature/Data
Perking Up Skin: Green Coffee Promotes Barrier Recovery, Turn Over and Lightening
Epidermal barrier recovery and the desquamation of dead corneocytes reinvigorate aged skin. Hyperpigmentation accumulates as skin ages. A green coffee bean extract was tested here and found to address these issues.
Skin Care
Speeding Up R&D: Spotting Clues to Anticipate Stability Problems
Besides directing cosmetic beginners to read the abundant literature in the field of stability, the aim of this article is to give some clues for starting stability matters “with the right foot”—indeed, to anticipate stability problems helps to speed up the R&D process.
Skin Care
Unlocking the Mind-Skin Connection for Stress-Smart Innovation in Neurocosmetics
The future of "stress-smart" skincare lies in developing products that support the skin’s stress-responsive biology across multiple pathways.
Literature/Data
Molecular Targets of Aging Processes
The purpose of this article is to discuss some key target molecules and receptors involved with aging mechanisms. As scientists learn more about the biochemical processes involved with aging, an increasing number of these loci are discovered that could be selected as targets for cosmeceutical ingredients with the final goal of an end-product with good anti-aging benefits.
Event Coverage
2026 Allēs Showcase Sustainable Innovation, Personalized Solutions and More - Judges' Comments
The
C&T
team combined the judges’ comments and highlights for each finalist of the 2026 Allē Awards.
Actives
Skin Care Gets Smarter: Exploring Advanced Ingredient Technologies
Here we explore some of the most advanced ingredients in skin care and how they are revolutionizing the industry. With advances in technology, manufacturers and brands can design products and formulas that adjust to the skin’s unique needs.
Anti-aging/Face
Deglycation Mechanism to Treat Diabetic, Elderly and Xerotic Skin
The non-enzymatic process of glycation affects macromolecules in the skin, causing premature aging especially under diabetic, xerotic and elderly conditions. As the present research describes, a mechanism of deglycation can be used to target these conditions using an imidazole derivate. Here, in vitro and in vivo assays on diabetic, xerotic and elderly panels show statistically significant positive results.
Actives
Skin-lightening Challenges
A number of skin-lightening ingredients are on the market, as this review describes, but many of them are burdened by safety or efficacy baggage. Some do not inhibit melanin in vivo, while others may be toxic or face penetration issues. Additional research is required to develop a truly effective and safe OTC skin lightener.
Actives
Infusing New Life into an Old Reliable Skin Treatment: Retinaldehyde
Retinaldehyde is suitable for many skin care applications, and when combined with other substances becomes even more versatile. One of its newest topical delivery systems provides multifunctional opportunities.
Literature/Data
Black Truffle, Nanocrystals and Flexible Films: Recent Literature Findings
In this monthly survey of recent patent and literature research, the author describes money-making ideas in the personal care industry, ranging from a water-soluble scrubbing agent and black truffle for cell proliferation, to ascorbyl palmitate nanocrystals and an o/w emulsion for eyelash-volumizing and lengthening, among others.
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