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Type: Article

Section: Cosmetic Ingredients > Rheology/Thickener

Using Esters to Deliver Multifunctionality in Color Cosmetics

Color cosmetic claims are becoming increasingly sophisticated and interconnected to trends seen in the skin care category. The Liquiwax® range of cosmetic esters combines the emolliency of traditional esters with skin conditioning functionality to address the consumer need for skin care effects in color cosmetics.

Nonaqueous Emulsions: History and Current Specialized Applications

Since the early 1980s, nonaqueous emulsions have attracted technical interest as potential vehicles and delivery systems for personal care products. This is due to the development of a broad range of silicone-based emulsifiers, silicone polymers and other polymeric emulsifiers that have enabled their use. This article will briefly review their history and evolution into current-day specialized applications.

Next-generation Carbopol® Polymer Proves Highly Efficient at Lower pH Levels

Consumer demand for products that provide anti-aging and healthy-skin benefits is driving the creation of many new cosmetics. However, many of the active ingredients that are beneficial to the face and neck are most effective at lower pH ranges. In this Q&A, Lubrizol’s Bryan Moran, Sr. R&D Scientist, talks about Carbopol® Ultrez 30 polymer (INCI: Carbomer), a new rheology modifier, and how it can help formulators achieve preferred viscosity, suspension and stability in gels or emulsions containing challenging additives such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs).

Formulating with Surfactant Silicones

The authors describe how the use of amphiphilic silicones or surfactant silicones has allowed formulators to efficiently incorporate silicone polymers into personal care products. These materials act by lowering the surface tension in the oil phase of a formulation, allowing for easier spreading on skin and hair.

Patent Picks— Emolliency, Antioxidant, Colorstay and Styling Benefits in Hair

Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features patents related to hair care, including hair styling, conditioning, colorstay and more.

Formulating for Electrolyte Resistance in Conjunction with Sensory Appeal

Skin care formulations often are enriched with high levels of electrolytic ingredients for various skin benefits. However, these have a negative impact on the viscosity, texture and stability of a system. Described in this article is a multifunctional polymer that is designed to provide excellent electrolyte resistance along with a pleasant sensory profile, as will be shown.

Cationic Guar Gum

Guar is a natural water soluble polymer principally grown in the Asian subcontinent, specifically India and Pakistan. Also, guar gum is a crop studied in agronomy programs in the United States and many other parts of the world.

Formula Anatomy Deciphered—Sensory in Cosmetics

The sensory world is fueled by research conducted in different disciplines such as biology, neurobiology and sense chemistry. It extends to many industrial sectors where perception elements are crucial, including cosmetics.

Patent Picks—Oxygenation, Self-heating, Anti-stress and More in Cleansing

Chosen biweekly for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features patents related to cleansing.

Polyacrylate-33 for Thickening and Suspending in Low Surfactant Cleansers

Described herein is a hydrophobically-modified acrylic copolymer, polyacrylate-33, which is designed for low-to-medium surfactant-containing cleansers. The ingredient is shown to display high thickening efficiency and good suspension properties and shear-thinning rheology in sulfate-based and sulfate-free chassis. Further, it enables transparent formulations in the presence of salt with improved foaming and sensorial properties.

Formula Troubleshooting: Acrylate-based Thickening

Acrylate-based ingredients have been modified over the past decades, and their benefits are increasingly evident in many industries outside of cosmetics, such as paints, coatings, inks, textiles, etc.

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Déjà vu: A Need for Alternatives to Cocamide DEA

The scrutiny over Cocamide DEA in cosmetic applications is not new; for the past decade, its safety has been debated. While it is widely used, many chemists still may look to remove it from existing formulations, creating the need for alternatives. To overcome this obstacle, Croda has developed two near “drop-in” replacements for Cocamide DEA.

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Build the Basics, Optimize Products, Formulate Naturals and Penetrate Skin

In addition to courses for the beginning chemist, natural products and optimization of formulas, Cosmetics & Toiletries has added Physiology of the Skin, featuring Zoe Diana Draelos, MD, to its online training program. Buy at Suppliers' Day and save! Visit booth 1345.

Approaches to Address Tooth Sensitivity and Dental Erosion

While the introduction of fluoride remarkably increased the life expectancy of natural teeth, two oral care problems have since emerged: tooth sensitivity and dental erosion. This article describes approaches to these problems and discusses the challenge of simultaneously maintaining fluoride efficacy in multi-benefit toothpaste formulations.

Formula Anatomy Deciphered—Toothpastes

If consumers think that brushing their teeth with toothpaste is a simple hygiene procedure, they are mistaken. Mouth care is a complex strategy and modern cosmetics do much more than simply eliminate microbes.

Chitosan in Cosmetics: Technical Aspects when Formulating

A high-grade chitosan made from shrimp shells has viscosity-building properties that support its use in cosmetic emulsions and gels.

Selecting the Right Emollient Ester

Formulating tips and representative formulas are presented to help the formulating chemist select the appropriate emollient esters for use as pigment wetting agents in various types of makeup systems, such as foundations and lipsticks.

How Do I Thicken My Cosmetic Formula

This article explains how to select a thickener from nine basic thickener groups that enable the chemist to change a product's viscosity and rheological properties, such as stability, feel and flow.

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