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Type: Article

Section: Cosmetic Ingredients > Rheology/Thickener

A New Thickener/Stabilizer Technology

This article describes a new synthetic thickener/stabilizer technology that provides these attributes. Although there area variety of raw materials used to thicken personal care products, few are sufficiently versatile to offer effective thickening, gelling and suspending properties for a wide variety of applications.

Formula Troubleshooting—Microemulsion Systems

Microemulsions have long assisted the pharmaceutical industry in delivering efficacious levels of an active ingredient to the skin by enhancing the active’s bioavailability, versus traditional solutions and dispersions.

Ingredient Profile—Carbomer

Carbomers, a family of crosslinked acrylic acid polymers, are essential ingredients in numerous products, including: pharmaceuticals; cosmetics and personal care items; household, industrial and institutional care products; printing inks; adhesives and coatings. This column will explore the chemistry and properties of carbomers that have earned them this well-deserved reputation.

Comparatively Speaking: Trisiloxane vs. Dimethicone Copolyol

In this edition of "Comparatively Speaking," industry expert Tony O'Lenick explains the difference in stability between dimethicone copolyols and trisiloxane, a class of dimethicone copolyols.

Ingredient Profile: PEG-150 Distearate

Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine has added the new column, “Ingredient Profile,” to its regular monthly lineup. Written by expert Michael J. Fevola, PhD, of Johnson & Johnson, it is intended to provide formulators with information about the chemistry and manufacture of common cosmetic raw materials and how their key properties impact formulations.

Comparatively Speaking: Amphiphilic vs. Ionic Amphiphilic Molecule

Tony O'Lenick explains the difference between amphiphilic and ionic amphiphilic molecules, the interactions of which may help formulators to maximize the effectiveness of formulations.

Comparatively Speaking: Carbomer vs. Alkyl Carbomer

Tony O’Lenick looks to Sergio R.S. Costa, of Chemflex Quimica, to explain the difference between carbomer, a series of polymers of acrylic acid, and alkyl carbomer, copolylmerized acrylic acid and alkyl acrylate.

Comparatively Speaking: Fatty Alcohols vs. Fatty Acids vs. Esters

In the present discussion of fatty alcohols, fatty acids and esters, Tony O’Lenick recruits Ismail Walele of Phoenix Chemical to explain the differences between them.

Polymers in Personal Care

Polymer use began in the 1800s with cellulose derivatives, the vulcanization of rubber, and styrene synthesis; but in reality, it started more than four million years ago with the formation of DNA and proteins. Polymers are a diverse class of chemistry. By definition, they are large molecules made up of chains or rings of linked monomer units—simple reactive building blocks. Smaller molecules or monomers are combined to form polymers that possess a characteristic chain structure of multiple repeating units that can be related or different.

Comparatively Speaking: Natural- vs. Oxo- vs. Ziegler-derived Alcohols

Tony O'Lenick explores the difference between fatty alcohols derived naturally and those derived through the oxo process and the Ziegler process.

Bring Food to the Soul of your O/W Emulsion with a Dual Rheology Stabilizing System

Cosmetic emulsions can be stabilized via bulk rheology and interfacial rheology by using a unique synergistic blend of two polysaccharides in a technology derived from the food industry.

Formulating with Surfactant Silicones

The authors describe how the use of amphiphilic silicones or surfactant silicones has allowed formulators to efficiently incorporate silicone polymers into personal care products. These materials act by lowering the surface tension in the oil phase of a formulation, allowing for easier spreading on skin and hair.

Synthetic Copolymers as Rheology Modifiers for Personal Care Formulations

This article describes the mechanisms of acrylate and polyurethane copolymers used as rheology modifiers. It gives examples of their use, and suggests new uses in emulsification and in suspending particles in clear formulations.

New Cellulose Derivatives in Personal Care Formulations

Hydrophobic modified cellulose ethers can be used to thicken formulations containing high concentrations of anionic surfactants by adding nonionic surfactants to the system. Implications are shown for liquid soaps and hair shampoos.

Cationic Emulsifiers: A Most Underutilized Category

Cosmetic chemists have at their disposal a seemingly endless supply of emulsifiers from which to choose. By far, the most popular category of emulsifiers is “soap"–the reaction product between a fatty acid typically stearic acid) and an alkali earth metal (typically sodium hydroxide, occasionally potassium hydroxide).

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Choosing Thickening Agents for Emulsions, Part I: Water Phase Thickeners

As readers of this column certainly must by now know, emulsion stabilization is a favorite topic of mine. A key component of every emulsion is the thickener or, more properly, a thickener system that is employed.

Fluid Gels Based On Natural Polymers For Cosmetic Applications

Varying the concentration of two polymers – xanthan gum and konjac mannan – mixed in solution and subjected to shear while cooling yields fluid gels whose viscosity can vary from a pourable solution to a spreadable gel.

Sunscreen Formulas With Multilayer Lamella Structure

The multilayer lamellar structure in sunscreens containing phosphate emulsifiers plays key roles in the emulsion rheology and in enhancing deposition of sunscreen oil on skin surface, thereby improving the SPF water wash resistance.

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