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Type: Article

Section: Cosmetic Ingredients > Moisturizing

Patent Picks—Edelweiss to Stop Graying, Mineral Anti-dandruff, Hold + Conditioning and More in Hair Care

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features inventions related to hair care and styling, including edelweiss to stop hair graying and even restore hair color; minerals to address dandruff; phenolic compound blends for hair shine and protection; block polymers to increase foam in hair products; inventions that combine hair styling and care; and more.

Anionic Organosilicones: Complexing Agents for Quaternary Compounds

A new formulating technique allows for the preparation of clear gels containing both anionic rheology control polymers and cationic conditioning agents, ingredients which were traditionally thought to be incompatible with one another.

Indonesia Expects Professional Hair Care Boom

Although the Indonesian hair care market is still modest in size, being less than 5% of the U.S. market, it has enjoyed a growth of almost 10% since 2007.

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Comparatively Speaking: Complexation vs. Coacervation in 2-in-1 Shampoos

Hair care traditionally involves cleansing with anionic or amphoteric surfactants, rinsing, then using a conditioner with cationic surfactant and cetyl and stearyl alcohol. Combining these as 2-in-1 products is not easy but complexation and coacervation approaches can achieve such.

Corneocare and Comfort Science

At the Skin Forum 2013 event in London, the seven pillars of “corneocare,” were introduced, which targeted: the epidermal tissue at the molecular, cellular and structural level; epidermal function; tactile experience; appearance and sensation. This is one of the first concepts in personal care to close the gap between consumer perception and a scientific approach.

Comparatively Speaking: Silicone Anionics and Cationics vs. Soft Complex for Hair Care

The presence of ionic groups affects silicone in an analogous way to how ionic groups affect fatty surfactants. Here, Tony O'Lenick explains how molecular modifications to silicones can result in ionic complexes that are soluble in water and compatible with each other.

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Comparatively Speaking: HLB vs PIT

HLB and PIT are both important concepts for making emulsions. They provide different information, however, so both should be used to optimize emulsions. Tony O'Lenick, et al., explain.

Comparatively Speaking: Dimethicone vs. Simethicone

According to Tony O'Lenick, dimethicones are a series of silicone polymers that contain only M and D units, whereas simethicone is a mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and silica gel.

Comparatively Speaking: Emollient vs. Humectant

An emollient is a material that soothes and softens the skin. Most emollients used in personal care are lipids or silicones. Similarly, a humectant helps retain moisture in skin.

Silicone Compounds–New Formulation Possibilities

Tapping into little understood products selected from a class of well known compounds can provide formulation advantages. PEG/PPG dimethicone compounds, alkyl dimethicone compounds and alkyl PEG/PPG dimethicone compounds are three classes of compounds that offer far more utility in personal care products than is generally appreciated by formulators.

Comparatively Speaking: Natural vs. Hydrogenated Butters

Industry expert Tony O'Lenick asks Thomas O'Lenick, PhD, to explain the difference between hydrogenated butters and naturally occurring butters.

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Comparatively Speaking: Humectants vs. Emollients vs. Occlusive Agents

The following excerpt is adapted with permission from an article by Kelly Dobos of Kao Corp., titled, "How Do Skin Moisturizers Work," which was featured on the Chemist's Corner. The article discusses how moisturizers work on skin with respect to the three main ingredient categories: humectants, emollients and occlusive agents.

Comparatively Speaking: Guerbet Alcohol vs. Linear Fatty Alcohol

Industry expert Tony O'Lenick explains that Guerbet alcohols have significantly lower melting points than the linear alcohols with the same number of carbon atoms, which makes them highly desirable in the personal care market.

Biomimetic vs. Traditional Skin Moisturization: An In vivo Comparison*

To alleviate skin dryness, humectants and occlusive substances are traditionally used, mostly in combination. A third, relatively recent approach is biomimetic, i.e., active ingredients with lamellar structure containing skin-identical lipids. The aim of this study was to determine whether a biomimetic cream could deliver superior moisturization to human volunteers, compared with a conventional moisturizer containing petrolatum and mineral oil.

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Comparatively Speaking: Sun Care vs. Daily Proactive Skin Care

"The difference, in one sentence, is that sun care is only part of skin care. To be complete, skin care requires a need for daily proactive total skin care regimen."

Glycerin and Hydroxyethyl Urea: Comparing Two Skin Moisturizers

In a series of evaluations comparing two skin moisturizers, hydroxyethyl urea was found to deliver moisturization efficacy comparable to glycerin, while offering some advantages in terms of sensory perception in skin care products.

Comparatively Speaking: Linear vs. Branched vs. Unsaturated Alcohols and Acids

Tony O’Lenick asks Art Hein of Jarchem to explain the difference between linear, branched and unsaturated alcohols and acids. These properties can be used by the formulator to choose the correct ester for a given formulation.

Product Benchmarking: Lip Service, Window Dressing or Competitive Advantage?

In a fast-moving marketplace, few would disagree that product performance benchmarking is critical to achieving an industry-leading position. However, is this statement just lip service in the current environment?

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