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Efficacy
How Bee-friendly Aqueous Propolis ‘Sticks it’ to Microbiota Dysbiosis, Skin Conditions
An aqueous, or white propolis, extract was tested in vitro and shown to affect microbiota connected with skin conditions. In vivo trials also demonstrated the ingredient’s safety and efficacy in reducing skin discomfort, dryness and body odor.
Event Coverage
2026 Allēs Showcase Sustainable Innovation, Personalized Solutions and More - Judges' Comments
The
C&T
team combined the judges’ comments and highlights for each finalist of the 2026 Allē Awards.
Actives
Skin Care Gets Smarter: Exploring Advanced Ingredient Technologies
Here we explore some of the most advanced ingredients in skin care and how they are revolutionizing the industry. With advances in technology, manufacturers and brands can design products and formulas that adjust to the skin’s unique needs.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Water-soluble Phosphate Polymers in Bar Soap for Controlled Release of Antimicrobial Silver
This paper presents data on the antimicrobial performance of a silver ion-releasing phosphate polymer incorporated into a bar soap product. Two studies test the speed, efficacy and longevity of the antimicrobial effect, highlighting the potential of these materials for the controlled, sustained release of bioactive metal ions in cosmetic products.
Literature/Data
Penetration of Cosmetics Into and Through the Stratum Corneum
The penetration routes of substances through the stratum corneum and how these transport pathways function are becoming better understood. Despite this progress, however, the penetration mechanisms of cosmetic formulations remain mysterious. This overview presents current knowledge on the various pathways of penetration, and suggests that even if cosmetic formulations penetrate no deeper than the surface, their efficacy may still be optimal.
Anti-aging/Face
Deglycation Mechanism to Treat Diabetic, Elderly and Xerotic Skin
The non-enzymatic process of glycation affects macromolecules in the skin, causing premature aging especially under diabetic, xerotic and elderly conditions. As the present research describes, a mechanism of deglycation can be used to target these conditions using an imidazole derivate. Here, in vitro and in vivo assays on diabetic, xerotic and elderly panels show statistically significant positive results.
Actives
Skin-lightening Challenges
A number of skin-lightening ingredients are on the market, as this review describes, but many of them are burdened by safety or efficacy baggage. Some do not inhibit melanin in vivo, while others may be toxic or face penetration issues. Additional research is required to develop a truly effective and safe OTC skin lightener.
Actives
Enriched Shea Extract to Target ZAG for Anti-cellulite Effects
In humans, the ZAG protein is a modulator of fat mobilization. The present paper identifies an unroasted shea butter extract, enriched in viminalol esters, as a stimulator of ZAG expression and secretion by keratinocytes in vitro. Further, a complex containing the extract is shown to significantly improve the appearance of cellulite within 28 days of application in a clinical setting.
Actives
Infusing New Life into an Old Reliable Skin Treatment: Retinaldehyde
Retinaldehyde is suitable for many skin care applications, and when combined with other substances becomes even more versatile. One of its newest topical delivery systems provides multifunctional opportunities.
Actives
Biotechnology in Beauty: The Future of Formulation – A Cosmetic Chemist’s Perspective
Cosmetics & Toiletries
is delighted to welcome the latest addition to its regularly featured content lineup: Biotechnology in Beauty, by Krupa Koestline, chief formulator and owner of KKT Innovation Labs, and the 2024 recipient of the Florence Wall Women in Cosmetic Chemistry Award.
Literature/Data
Black Truffle, Nanocrystals and Flexible Films: Recent Literature Findings
In this monthly survey of recent patent and literature research, the author describes money-making ideas in the personal care industry, ranging from a water-soluble scrubbing agent and black truffle for cell proliferation, to ascorbyl palmitate nanocrystals and an o/w emulsion for eyelash-volumizing and lengthening, among others.
Literature/Data
Black Truffle, Nanocrystals and Flexible Films: Recent Literature Findings
In this monthly survey of recent patent and literature research, the author describes money-making ideas in the personal care industry, ranging from a water-soluble scrubbing agent and black truffle for cell proliferation, to ascorbyl palmitate nanocrystals and an o/w emulsion for eyelash-volumizing and lengthening, among others.
Skin Care
Recent Advances in Slimming Treatments
Slimming treatments address a number of targets in skin physiology, including: improving microcirculation, strengthening and protecting the connective tissue, and decreasing adipocyte contents. Traditional and newer approaches to slimming treatments employ a number of ingredients to achieve such ends.
Actives
How a Bio-optimized Collagen Peptide Masters Timeless Beauty
A hexapeptide was developed based on the human skin type I collagen sequence. Its activities on skin biomarkers, procollagen I and hyaluronic acid release and for dermal matrix protection and facial contouring benefits, were tested as described here.
Actives
PDRN Explained: The Skin (and Hair) Care Ingredient Turning Heads in Beauty
Polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN) has starred in numerous recent beauty headlines, warranting a deeper dive into why beauty consumers love PDRN and what makes it so great — so we dove. Three industry experts took the plunge with us.
Sensory
Vegetal-derived Emulsifiers for Improved Stability and Formula Efficiency
The quest for PEG-free surfactants and emulsifiers has led to new classes of vegetal-derived, ethylene oxide-free ingredients for environmentally friendly personal care products. Two such ingredients, described here, are based on the combination of olive oil and vegetable proteins with the first derived from oat and the second, with glutamic acid. These materials provide mildness and skin protection benefits.
Literature/Data
Stimulating Sirtuins' Antiaging Appeal
Nicotinamide, the amide of niacin or vitamin B3, is used to treat arthritis. It also has demonstrated anti-inflammatory actions that may be of benefit in patients with inflammatory acne vulgaris. Nicotinamide, therefore, would appear to play a positive role in inhibiting inflammation but a negative role in aging. Are there other ways to stimulate sirtuins?
Anti-aging/Face
Part I: The In vitro Effects of a Natural Dipeptide on the Biological Cascade
The peptide N-Acetyl-Tyr-Arg-Hexadecylester (NATAH) was found to stimulate the synthesis of tropoelastin in cultured human dermal fibroblasts as well as augment the activity of all important actors in the assembly of elastic fibers, including Fibrillin 1, Fibulin 5, Decorin, LOX and Transglutaminase, among others. This is shown here both in monolayer cell cultures and in a 3D skin model.
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