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Section: Testing
Tech/Equipment/Services
Assessing the Effects of Blue Light on the Skin in New Validated Method
Studies have shown blue light can have damaging effects on the skin. Genemarkers has developed a reproducible in vitro method for measuring blue light effects. Learn how Genemarkers’ blue light testing can aid product development.
Method/Process
Rapid Colorimetric Analysis of para-Phenylenediamine in Henna-based, Non-permanent Tattoo Color Mixtures
In some henna mixtures, para-phenylenediamine (PPD) has illegally been added and it is responsible for complications such as allergic contact dermatitis. While high-performance liquid chromatography has previously been used to detect PPD, a colorimetric method that is faster and portable, described here, has been developed. For product developers, this method can be used to evaluate henna plant extracts.
Efficacy
Lost in Extraction: DNA Reveals the Impact of Filtering on Sand Daffodil Extract Traceability
The authentication and traceability of natural raw materials have been a recent focus in several industries. Here, four specific markers in materials derived from
Pancratium maritimum
, also known as sand daffodil or sea lily, are examined using DNA barcoding and metabarcoding. Results reveal the plant DNA, and therefore traceability, is largely degraded before entering cosmetic compositions.
Method/Process
Bio + Chemo Guidance Uncover New Benefits in Known Naturals:
Murraya Koenigii
Extract Case Study
Murraya koenigii
extracts derived via various techniques were compared. One developed through chem- and bio-guidance paired with a natural deep eutectic technology uncovered lesser-known efficacies, leading to a natural active to boost elastin synthesis.
Method/Process
Rapid Colorimetric Analysis of para-Phenylenediamine in Henna-based, Non-permanent Tattoo Color Mixtures
In some henna mixtures, para-phenylenediamine (PPD) has illegally been added and it is responsible for complications such as allergic contact dermatitis. While high-performance liquid chromatography has previously been used to detect PPD, a colorimetric method that is faster and portable, described here, has been developed. For product developers, this method can be used to evaluate henna plant extracts.
Efficacy
The Dirty Truth About Pollution-induced Skin Aging: The AhR Pathway Tells All
Studies have shown that exposure to airborne, traffic-related particulate matter (PM) is associated with increased signs of extrinsic skin aging.1-3 Using model particles as surrogates, these researchers developed an in vitro model to evaluate premature aging induced via the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) pathway. They found a new AhR antagonist could inhibit the up-regulation of genes indicative for premature aging.
Efficacy
Jojoba Oil Esters Ease Inflammation, Sensitivity and Water Loss from Skin and the Environment
Water scarcity has become a major concern and jojoba is known to flourish under controlled low water conditions. As such, jojoba wax esters were explored for skin care to reduce inflammation and sensitivity and to provide hydration over a 24-hr period.
Actives
Narcissus Tazetta
and
Schizandra Chinensis
to Regulate ‘Youth Gene Clusters’—An In vitro Analysis
A blend of
Narcissus tazetta
bulb and
Schizandra chinensis
fruit extracts was developed for anti-aging benefits and tested for efficacy on a human skin equivalent. Results indicate it regulates the functions of youth gene clusters by increasing the activities found in younger skin and reducing the activities found in aging skin specific to structure, hydration, cellular proliferation and pigmentation.
Actives
Narcissus Tazetta
and
Schizandra Chinensis
to Regulate ‘Youth Gene Clusters’—An In vitro Analysis
A blend of
Narcissus tazetta
bulb and
Schizandra chinensis
fruit extracts was developed for anti-aging benefits and tested for efficacy on a human skin equivalent. Results indicate it regulates the functions of youth gene clusters by increasing the activities found in younger skin and reducing the activities found in aging skin specific to structure, hydration, cellular proliferation and pigmentation.
Method/Process
In the Land of the Blind: Applying a Single-blind Study to Finished Products
Following positive feedback from a previous column on the placebo effect, Wiechers readdresses clinical study design in relation to cosmetic claim substantiation—this time discussing when to perform double-blind studies and when to perform single-blind studies.
Event Coverage
2026
C&T Allē Awards
Portal is Open — Beauty Innovation Abounds: Show Us Your Stuff
With beauty innovation abuzz, especially around spring trade shows,
Cosmetics & Toiletries
is excited to open the 2026
Allē Awards
submission portal. Show us what you've got!
Event Coverage
Testing Innovators: Submit Now to Take Center Stage at the
2026 C&T Allē Awards
Do your methods and devices put cosmetic innovations to the test? The
Cosmetics & Toiletries
2026
Allē Awards
want to recognize you - enter now.
Efficacy
In vivo Delivery Confirmation: Measuring the Deposition of Salicylic Acid from Anti-acne Face Wash
Measuring the delivery of active ingredients is an important part of the product development process, and particularly desirable are non-invasive, in vivo methods. This work describes the use of fluorescence excitation emission matrices in vivo to measure the deposition of salicylic acid from anti-acne face wash products.
Skin Care
A New Code for Skin Care, Part II: Breakthroughs in the Delivery of RNAi Therapeutics
As described in Part I, the cosmetics industry has been developing RNAi technologies for skin care applications. However, a major stumbling block has been their delivery into skin. This second installment briefly reviews new delivery methods for the implementation and commercialization of RNAi-based products.
Efficacy
Validate the efficacy of actives, raw materials & products in preventing/repairing skin damage from environmental pollution
Learn more about The Environmental Stress Panel – an innovative gene expression panel developed by Genemarkers, the leader in applying state-of-the-art genomics technologies to personal care product development.
Efficacy
Words from Wiechers: In the Land of the Blind, the One-eyed Man is King
"Regulatory bodies claim that everything should be tested against a placebo, but they should also learn to see there is a difference between fundamental science and applied science," the late Johann Wiechers, Ph.D., writes, in this month's column. He also explains blinded studies.
Literature/Data
A New Code for Skin Care, Part III: RNA Activation—The Flipside to RNA Interference
As the scientific knowledge of RNAi has expanded, a completely opposite process of RNA activation (RNAa) has been discovered. In this third and final part in our series, gene activation by non-coding RNA is explored for its potential in skin care applications.
Event Coverage
[video] News and Insights: Tariff Impact, Animal-free CMR Detection, BO-causing Protein and More
If you’re not vacationing somewhere, surely you’ve been waiting all week for the
Cosmetics & Toiletries
video recap. Here's Rachel Grabenhofer to give it to you.
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