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Section: Testing

Patent Picks—Diffusion Profiling, Optical Tweezer, Fluorescent Microbe Detection and More

Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources and cover recent patents issued, or applied for, in the cosmetic and personal care industries and relevant peripheral markets. This edition features methods and processes for analyzing and producing cosmetic products and materials.

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FDA Pushes Higher Limits, New Labeling and More Data for Sunscreens

Broad spectrum sunscreens are critical for preventing skin cancer and UV damage, yet many of their essential requirements have not been updated in years. This was the driver for new sunscreen regulatory rules proposed by the FDA.

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Old Meets New: Facial Mapping and TCM to Reach Booming Markets

Several ingredient examples from Traditional Chinese Medicine folklore are now validated by modern science. This article explores their potential for the aspirational Chinese market and considers how techniques such as facial-mapping demonstrate their efficacy.

Non-Invasive Measurement of Epidermal Proteins for Psoriasis and Skin Care*

Abnormal epidermal turnover in psoriatic skin impairs its barrier function and tissue repair capabilities. Therefore, studies of hyperkeratinization and hyperproliferation have been conducted to better understand the disease. Here, the administration of heavy water and a tape-stripping method are used to measure skin protein turnover in psoriatic skin and surrounding tissues. Results demonstrate benefits over other proliferation measurements.

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Letter to Editor Questions Benzophenone Study; Author and Industry Expert Respond

A Letter to the Editor in Chemical Research in Toxicology points to flaws in a study gaining recent attention and calling for the removal of octocrylene-containing sunscreens from the market. The author responds; as does an additional industry expert, David Steinberg.

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Consistency of Vaselinum Album and Flavum - Hollow Cone Method (EU Pharmacopeia)

The penetrometer PNR 12 is suitable for consistency measurements required in the pharmaceutical industry. Various test kits are available for different pharmaceutical products and standards like the official WHO method European Pharmacopoeia 2.9.9.

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CBD in Effect: Correlating In vitro and Ex vivo Skin Benefits

Primary biological functions of the skin barrier, immune system, lipids, free radicals and extracellular matrix are, in fact, impacted by CBD, as a poster and podium presentation by Genemarkers at SCC Annual demonstrated.

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[video] Responding to COVID-19, Childhood AD and Sensitive Skin

This week's top headline picks in cosmetics R&D news range from COVID-19 responses, to botanicals for childhood atopic dermatitis and more. Here's Rachel Grabenhofer with her video recap.

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L'Oréal Focuses on Custom Cosmetics, Wearables and Try-on Technologies

During the IFSCC Congress, Guive Balooch, Ph.D., of L’Oréal, presented on the effects technology will have not only on the chemists working in the lab, but on the beauty industry in general. His team is focused on: personalization, coaching and virtual try-ons.

Testing Tactics—REACH and In vitro Alternatives: Corrosive Potential Testing

The authors of the REACH directive had the foresight to recognize the impact of such a large amount of testing on animal use and mandated that in vitro testing methods should be used as animal testing alternatives whenever possible.

Texture Analysis to Select Packaging and Formulate Hair Care Products

Texture analysis provides quantitative information about a material’s response when deformed by a controlled force. Examples illustrate the use of a texture analyzer to evaluate shampoo extrusion, hair spray film toughness, hair spray tackiness, styling wax hardness and aerosol canister deployment.

Liquid Crystals in O/W Emulsions with Urea: Development and Testing

Using a ternary phase diagram, the authors developed systems based on nonionic surfactants, light paraffin oil, water, and (optionally) urea. Systems in which lamellar liquid crystals formed and in which urea was an ingredient showed higher occlusive power and lower TEWL in in vitro tests.

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J&J Points to Collaboration and 6 Areas for Future Growth

“We need to openly publish our scientific data and challenge each other to progress,” said J&J's Josh Ghaim, Ph.D., during the IFSCC 2016 Congress. “We can then align standards and simply let the competitive technologies and products speak for themselves.”

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Cosmetovigilance Connections: Safety and Concerns Over Light-cured Gel Nails

Cosmetovigilance is necessary for the prevention of potentially undesirable effects from cosmetic products. In relation, UV light used to cure gel manicures is one area with which the CTPA and British Society for Cutaneous Allergy are concerned.

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Depth Perception: FTIR Reveals Devices Deliver Actives and Hydration Deeper

The deposition, delivery and penetration of actives are key to the success of skin care products and consequential to their efficacy. This paper explores ATR-FTIR imaging to compare the penetration of actives into skin via two application methods and their impact on skin hydration.

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Defending Integrity: Microemulsion to Restore Bleached and Dyed Hair Properties

Unlike skin, hair lacks regenerative properties, so it is important introduce components during bleaching and color treatments that preserve and maintain hair’s structure. The present article proposes a bis-PCA dimethicone solution, which acts via novel bonding mechanisms to impart cumulative strengthening in chemically treated hair.

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BASF and CTIBiotech Collaborate on 3D Human Sebaceous Gland Technology

The new technology could prove significant for those studying how sebaceous glands function in relation many skin disorders.

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CIR Gives Certain Keratin, Polymers and More the OK for Safety

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has made a safety determination on a number of chamomile, polymer, keratin and sulfate ingredients. Some are safe for use at certain levels while two HDI polymers still have insufficient data.

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