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Testing
Chocolate and Wine: The Perfect Match for Skin?
The
International Journal of Molecular Sciences
had us at "hello" this month, with a new study comparing the phenolic compounds in chocolate (actually, cocoa by-products) vs. wine (okay, grape seed) extracts for antioxidant and anti-inflammatory skin benefits.
Method/Process
Detecting the Protective Power of a Hair Health Multi-peptide: An Integrated Approach
This work measures the antioxidant potential of a hydrolyzed cicer seed extract, a multi-peptide derived from chickpeas, to protect hair. Advanced methods such as FTIR, DCFH-DA assays, cyclic fatigue and DSC testing are combined for a comprehensive view.
Natural/Sustainable
Raspberry Could Ride Anti-pollution to the Top
Raspberry is trending, not only for its impact on skin erythema and melanin, but for repair and antioxidant benefits. It's in the perfect position to ride the anti-pollution trend to the top.
Efficacy
Burt's Bees Proves Bakuchiol's Retinol-like and Turmeric's Anti-inflammatory Effects
Burt's Bees presented research during the virtual Integrative Dermatology Symposium proving bakuchiol's retinol-like activities for aging and sensitive skin, and turmeric's anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits for lip care.
Method/Process
Influence of Skin Diffuse Reflectance on Sun Damage and Ingredient Efficacy Measurements
Current in vitro methods to assess photostability and antioxidant activity do not account for the diffuse reflectance of skin. Described here is an in vitro test that addresses this variable, mimics end-use product conditions and models photodamage processes. The approach is employed to determine the efficacy of an antioxidant from the
Camellia sinensis
(tea) plant.
Color Cosmetics
Leveling Up: Passion Fruit Drives Color Cosmetics Into New Dimensions
Passion fruit seed extract is shown to exhibit antioxidant, skin whitening and sun protection capabilities in color cosmetics. This novel, natural and sustainable source for cosmetic actives demonstrates a near totality of claims for formulators and marketers.
Testing
Securing Skin: Polysaccharides Deliver Anti-pollution Protection
The present work tests the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of cosmetic polysaccharides for anti-pollution benefits. Air pollution is rising and can negatively impact skin. As such, anti-pollution cosmetics are trending.
Method/Process
A Dermatological View: Using Photochemiluminescence to Quantify the Antioxidative Capacity of Topicals
Exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR), air pollutants, chemical oxidants and aerobic microorganisms may damage the skin. In particular, reactive oxygen species (ROS) are considered a likely contributor to skin aging, cancer and certain skin disorders.
SPF/Sun
Sunscreen Saga Continues, Thanks to EWG
The FDA and PCPC came to the industry's defense this week, when the Environmental Working Group called out sunscreen makers for adding anti-inflammatory and antioxidant ingredients to products, to allegedly "mask" signs of sunburn and falsify SPF ratings.
Efficacy
Melatonin: An Ancient Protector for Modern Skin Care
Melatonin evolved in response to ROS exposure throughout the ages as an innate defense for organisms to protect themselves. Due to its anti-inflammatory and protective properties, melatonin is being used more often in skin care, and several assays can demonstrate its efficacy.
Method/Process
Dihydroavenanthramide D for Anti-irritant and Anti-itch
Naturally occurring and synthetic avenanthramides were evaluated for their efficacy to inhibit substance P-induced release of histamine from mast cells. In vivo tests showed that four synthetic avenanthramides demonstrated ability to significantly reduce histamine-induced itch and redness. Dihydroavenanthramide D was also shown to be an excellent antioxidant.
Actives
Clinical Tests Confirm Acetyl Zingerone Counters Wrinkles, Redness and Pigmentation
Researchers have demonstrated the clinical efficacy of acetyl zingerone, derived from ginger, to treat wrinkles, pigmentation and redness in an anti-aging cream. Previous work showed its chemical effects, which support these observations.
Event Coverage
Which Cosmetic Product Test Method/Tool, Device and Digital Tech Will Clinch
C&T Allēs
in 2024?
Which test method/tool, device and digital technologies will win
C&T Allē Awards
? Find out at our exclusive dinner on March 6, 2024, at the Biltmore, L.A. – alongside our captivating
Beauty Accelerate
event. Following are the contenders...
Literature/Data
New Passion for Passion Fruit: Sun Protection
Thai researchers have juicy news on passion fruit—apparently, extract from its seeds can boost the SPF levels in makeup. A recent paper published in the
Brazilian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences
explains.
Actives
Study Finds Bee Pollen Buzzin’ in Cosmetics
A study researched nano-sized bee pollen to see if it could be used as an ingredient in cosmetics. Clinical tests revealed the many benefits of bee pollen to the skin.
Efficacy
Shrinking Pores at Their Core: Gallic Acid Derivate Controls ROS and Sebum Factors
This study proposes a unique molecule derived from gallic acid to prevent enlarged and clogged facial pores. The ingredient is partly activated by the microbiome and protects against oxidative stress and excess sebum—two key factors at the core of enlarged pores.
Balancing/Soothing
Sea Buckthorn to Calm Oxi-Inflammatory Assault in Sensitive Skin
A sea buckthorn leaf extract was developed to calm the oxi-inflammatory environment induced by exposome assaults, to protect epidermal lipids and to soothe sensitive skin. A model mimicking lipoperoxidation in the epidermis was used to assess its effects.
Sensory
Quality Comparison of W/O and O/W Photo-Protection Creams
The authors determined the quality of a photoprotector W/O cream by evaluating its microbial control, physicalchemical stability and sensory appeal in comparison to an O/W photo-protector cream.
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