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Section: Research
Bath/Shower
[reader favorite] Comparatively Speaking: Shampoo vs. Body Wash Formulation
For some time now, the following article from Tony O’Lenick and David Zhang, Ph.D., has drawn frequent reader interaction on
CosmeticsandToiletries.com
. Considering its overwhelming popularity and relevance to this month’s topic, it seemed appropriate to include here, for your consideration.
Literature/Data
Combinatorial Skin Care: Heredity, Experience and Enhanced Product Customization
Current approaches to skin care customization focus on the individual’s skin type with little attention to the impact of their heritage. Described here is a diagnostic tool combining intrinsic, i.e., population-driven research in the literature, with extrinsic factors collected through self-assessment.
Method/Process
Test Model Developed to Predict Skin Permeability of Compounds
A test model published in the
Journal of Chromatography A
uses retention on octadecyl, cholesterol-bonded and immobilized artificial membrane columns to accurately predict the skin permeability of compounds.
Literature/Data
The Microbiome Movement: Commensal Cosmetics Offer a Viable Future
Various factors shape an individual’s skin microbiome, which has key effects on skin appearance and health. These are described herein, as is the potential to develop products in consideration of the microbiome.
Literature/Data
Comparatively Speaking: Liquid, Soft and Dry Extracts vs. Tinctures
In the following excerpt, Tony O'Lenick looks to Tony Dweck to explain the difference between liquid, soft and dry extracts and tinctures.
Methods/Tools
Comparatively Speaking: Lowering Surface Tension in Water vs. Oil
Industry expert Tony O'Lenick discusses the differences between lowering surface tension in water vs. oil phases, noting that formulators should consider surface tension and its role when choosing ingredients for either phase.
Literature/Data
Comparatively Speaking: Linear vs. Branched vs. Dendrimer Polymer Structures
Industry expert Tony O'Lenick explains the difference between polymer structures, the simplest being a linear chain with a single backbone, then increasing in complexity with one or more side chains or branches. Special types of branched polymers include dendrimers.
Safety/Stability
Beauty Giants Jointly Uncover Skin Absorption of Some 50 Compounds
Researchers from P&G, L'Oréal, Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique, Beiersdorf AG and the ADME Task Force of Cosmetics Europe have undertaken a massive in vitro assessment of some 50 compounds to determine their skin absorption and toxicity potentials.
Literature/Data
Comparatively Speaking: Wetting/Eye Irritation in Trisiloxane vs. Dimethicone Copolyol
In a previous "Comparatively Speaking" column, Tony O'Lenick explained the differences between trisiloxane and dimethicone copolyol in terms of surface tension. Here he explains the differences in terms of wetting and eye irritation.
Literature/Data
Comparatively Speaking: bis-PEG 8 Dimethicone, PEG 8 Dimethicone or Both?
What is the difference between bis-PEG 8 dimethicone, PEG 8 dimethicone and bis-PEG 8, PEG 8 dimethicone? Tony O'Lenick explains in this edition of "Comparatively Speaking."
Claims/Labeling
Cosmex AI Takes Regulatory Compliance for Cosmetics to the Next Level
Those who were wondering how artificial intelligence (AI) might take cosmetic product development to the next level now have their answer. Cosmex AI can scan 30,000+ ingredients to instantly indicate if a product complies with regulators or retailers.
Companies
Nature
and Estée Lauder to Honor Up-and-coming Female Researchers
In a new partnership, Nature Research, publisher of the industry-renowned journal
Nature
, and multinational cosmetics giant The Estée Lauder Companies will present early-career female scientists with awards for innovating and inspiring science.
Methods/Tools
EU Commissioner Calls for Improved Speed from Innovation to Product Creation
In an interview with EurActiv, Potočnik stressed that the EU needs to improve the speed with which it transforms research into commercial products.
Literature/Data
Comparatively Speaking: Pathways to Rancidity (and How to Avoid Them)
Rancidification is a type of oxidative degradation that occurs more commonly in oils, including hydrocarbons and other organics. Here, Tony O'Lenick explores this process and provides solutions to prevent it.
Literature/Data
Cellulose Nanocrystal, Lauric Arginate Complexation Key to Pickering Emulsion Stability
Work published in
Food Chemistry
shows how food-grade Pickering o/w emulsions display good stability thanks to complexation between cellulose nanocrystals and lauric arginate.
Companies
Sustainable, Circular and Aquatic-friendly: L'Oréal Commits to 'Green Science'
During its recent Transparency Summit, beauty giant L'Oréal committed to "green science" initiatives to source 95% of its ingredients from renewable plant sources, minerals and circular processes; and to ensure 100% of its formulas are aquatic life-friendly—all by 2030.
Testing
Comparatively Speaking: Factors Affecting the Stability of PEG/PPG Dimethicone Formulas
PEG/PPG dimethicone polymers have a water-soluble and silicone-soluble group present in the same molecule. This review considers their stability in water in relation to pH values and over time.
Research
Comprehensive Clinical Study Validates Efficacy of DefenAge Body Cream
The study, entitled the "Impact of Defensins-Containing Body Cream on Skin Composition" and was published by the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology.
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