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Section: Cosmetic Ingredients
Cosmetic Ingredients
Compass: When Worlds Colide
This issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine looks at the inner and outer worlds of beauty and even delves into the future with a look at what the newest ingredients formulators will use to build formulas of tomorrow.
Skin Care
Ointment Boasts a Superiority Complex
CeraVe Healing Ointment’s active ingredient, petrolatum, comprises 46.5% of the healing formula; however, doesn’t leave the skin feeling greasy.
Literature/Data
Comparatively Speaking—Entanglement vs. Overlap
This edition of "Comparatively Speaking" describes the difference between the critical molecular weight of entanglement and critical concentration of overlap. These concepts are important for formulators to grasp since they deal with altering the physical properties of a finished product.
Methods/Tools
Comparatively Speaking: HLB vs PIT
HLB and PIT are both important concepts for making emulsions. They provide different information, however, so both should be used to optimize emulsions. Tony O'Lenick, et al., explain.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Comparatively Speaking: HLB vs. SLB
Efficiently formulating products using alkyl dimethicone polymers requires knowing their composition, solubility in the oil phase chosen, and a metric to understand which values are necessary for that particular oil phase. SLB is a starting point for such determinations.
Bath/Shower
Compass—Bring on the Bubbly!
Bubbles are an integral part of this issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine—in the form of cleansing products and the ingredients employed therein.
Natural/Sustainable
Comparatively Speaking: Biopolymers vs. Polymers
According to industry expert Tony O'Lenick, polymers are compounds made from monomers that are joined together in a chemical process. There are many different types, of which biopolymers have gained increasing interest.
Cleansing
Comparatively Speaking: Sulfate vs. Sulfonate
Industry expert Tony O’Lenick explains the difference between a sulfate and a sulfonate.
Natural/Sustainable
Cultivating the Complexity of Naturals
Today’s personal care consumers view themselves as knowledgeable. They seek product labels that offer potent ingredients to stave off the effects of aging. However, today’s formulator must consider two important elements before hitting the bench and mixing naturals and botanicals. The actives in many of these naturals allegedly possess anti-inflammatory, free radical scavenger and skin-healing properties—all anti-aging buzzwords. Though centuries-old folklore regale the healing benefits of many botanicals, most involve reports of items being ingested, not applied directly on the skin. This is an important factor to consider when formulating a natural product: Do the studies indicate that the reported properties are as effective when applied topically? The second question to ask: Does the active in the natural work alone? By L. DiBerardino
Moisturizing
Comparatively Speaking: Silicone Anionics and Cationics vs. Soft Complex for Hair Care
The presence of ionic groups affects silicone in an analogous way to how ionic groups affect fatty surfactants. Here, Tony O'Lenick explains how molecular modifications to silicones can result in ionic complexes that are soluble in water and compatible with each other.
Actives
Silab Develops Commusys Anti-aging Active for Transcompartmental Communication in the Skin
By regulating the molecular players involved in communication from the dermis to the epidermis, the ingredient reactivates epidermal biological functions for hydrating, smoothing and radiance-boosting effects.
Formulas/Products
Cornelius Commits to Ethical Sourcing
Olvea, which the company distributes in the United Kingdom, is a member of the non-profit Union for Ethical Biotrade and operates the non-profit Marocavie; principal Ronald Britton has produced a range of biodegradable glitter.
Literature/Data
Comparatively Speaking: Solubility vs. Extraction
In this installment of "Comparatively Speaking," industry expert Tony O'Lenick describes the difference between solubility and extraction, and how various extraction techniques can be used to isolate desired cosmetic actives.
Colorant
Comparatively Speaking: Dye vs. Pigment
Tony O'Lenick collaborated with Nick Morante to develop a four-part series of the "Comparatively Speaking" column that focuses on color. This is the second in the series, where Morante helps explain the difference between a dye and a pigment.
Moisturizing
Comparatively Speaking: Dimethicone vs. Simethicone
According to Tony O'Lenick, dimethicones are a series of silicone polymers that contain only M and D units, whereas simethicone is a mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and silica gel.
Literature/Data
Comparatively Speaking: Cofactors vs. Coenzymes
Enzymes for DNA repair or Coenzyme Q10 for antioxidant and antiaging benefits have become typical ingredients in today's skin care. Here, industry expert O'Lenick illustrates the difference between cofactors and coenzymes.
Preservation
Comparatively Speaking: Cosmetic Preservatives
To serve the novice cosmetic chemist and/or refresh the seasoned formulator, Tony O’Lenick asks Perry Romanowski: Why is cosmetic preservation necessary, and why are preservatives vilified?
Actives
Complementary Polysaccharides for Skin Care
Exossine includes the environmentally-friendly Exo-H and Exo-T that are said to complement each other.
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